TTI exhaust system leaks at the joins

[phoenixv8]

Hey all, just consulting with the hive mind before I reassemble my exhaust system after pulling it to weld o2 sensor bungs and install my Borgeson power steering box. While they were off the car, I took the opportunity to prime, paint and clear coat them with VHT Flame proof paint.

Firstly, I have the TTI headers, 2.5" exhaust system with X pipe, and Borla Atak mufflers. I fitted the system a couple of years back (long term resto project) using the U clamps provided by TTI, and following the instructions, worked from rear to front. The system went together pretty easily with no real concern regarding fitment or interference.

Since installation, I have started the car a number of times, mostly to tune and time the engine but have yet to actually drive the thing. As it's a mild steel exhaust, however, and with the UK being a combination of cold, wet, and damp in the winter, and less cold, wet, and damp in the summer, corrosion has started on the surface, so in the interest of logevity, decided some paint would help last. Whilst under the car, I noticed that most joins have soot marks from gas blowby indicating pretty significant leaks at each join. I figured that maybe I hadn't tightened the clamps enough, but that doesn't appear to be the case as I aped on the nuts when doing them up originally. My only guess is that they weren't pushed in far enough?

I am swapping the U bolt clamps out for slip on style clamps but I'm curious what the consensus is regarding using A SMALL AMOUNT of exhaust putty/assembly paste? I intend to drag race the car, so it's not beyond reasoning that the exhaust system is going to be on and off more than a few times so I'm looking for advice and opinions from people who have had experience with this issue and what your workaround was.

 

[phoenixv8]

As you can see by the witness mark in the photo here, it looks like the exhaust only slipped into the muffler by about half an inch. Other joins that had significantly more inserted pipe into the joins were also leaking

 

[AR67GTX]

I would definitely use the band clamps and they will also make future disassembly easier than compressive u-strap clamps. They will probably take care of your problems even if you don’t have full engagement of the slip joints. Where were the connections with little engagement - at the front of the mufflers? If so you muffler may just have been positioned to far rearward. Or the header connections need to be repositioned. A little muffler putty won’t hurt but the band clamps may take care of the issue alone.

I’m surprised at the surface corrosion developing. My TTI system is over 20 years old and the aluminized finish still looks like new. It really must be damp over there.

 

[ckessel]

I had the same deal on my 65 with the TTI system. Other than the two hangers in front of the diff, there are no more u-bolt clamps. I went with weld on band clamp flange style. Makes it easier for assembly/dissassembly/replacement of items. And no leaky.

 

[Black_Sheep]

I used band clamps on most of the joints except the collectors and at the rear muffler hangers. The collectors are welded to the X pipe. You could try some high temp sealer at the joints to stop leaking if you’re using standard clamps.

Grand Rock makes an awesome preformed band clamp which overlaps for 360 degree sealing, but the smallest size is 3” WFC3SS.

 

[WileE]

 

[R413]

The 1/2" engagement areas are not going to work, they need more

If you would drive the car it would fall into place and not leak. The vibration and heat will seal it up.

 

[ckessel]

In case anyone asks, I did fully weld the flanges. They are just tacked in the pictures for fittment checking.

 

[phoenixv8]

I would definitely use the band clamps and they will also make future disassembly easier than compressive u-strap clamps. They will probably take care of your problems even if you don’t have full engagement of the slip joints. Where were the connections with little engagement - at the front of the mufflers? If so you muffler may just have been positioned to far rearward. Or the header connections need to be repositioned. A little muffler putty won’t hurt but the band clamps may take care of the issue alone.

I’m surprised at the surface corrosion developing. My TTI system is over 20 years old and the aluminized finish still looks like new. It really must be damp over there.

View attachment 1869330

Yeah, I was bit upset about that, especially as I paid out so much for them. That and beating the sh*t out of the ceramic coating on the headers that I paid extra for when removing and refitting the headers multiple times when chasing a bad starting issue, gave me the incentive to repaint. I'll look into the position of the mufflers as you are correct, the front muffler connections are the worst offenders.

 

[phoenixv8]

I had the same deal on my 65 with the TTI system. Other than the two hangers in front of the diff, there are no more u-bolt clamps. I went with weld on band clamp flange style. Makes it easier for assembly/dissassembly/replacement of items. And no leaky.

View attachment 1869342

View attachment 1869343

View attachment 1869344

V-Band is the ultimate objective, but with me thrashing to get the car ready for its (and mine) first drag race event in 12 weeks, it's something that I'll potentially look at doing in the off season. Do you have any issues with the lack of flexibility?

 

[icetech]

I use Evil Energy clamps and mine leak also.. Although i welded everytime from the headers back to the mufflers and then band clamps from there so i can take it apart if needed... The worst leak i used high temp rtv on the pipe before sliding it in but it makes it hard to get apart (i take my car apart more than i drive it.. exhaust has been off and on like 7 times now)

I was going to do band clamps but don't recall why i didn't.. might switch to them next time the exhaust is off.. which will also get a o2 sensor..

 

[phoenixv8]

I used band clamps on most of the joints except the collectors and at the rear muffler hangers. The collectors are welded to the X pipe. You could try some high temp sealer at the joints to stop leaking if you’re using standard clamps.

Grand Rock makes an awesome preformed band clamp which overlaps for 360 degree sealing, but the smallest size is 3” WFC3SS.

View attachment 1869345

I've managed to source some pretty decent looking connectors that aren't premium grade Chinesium and will fit my 2.5". Definitely going to weld the collector to the x pipe though as its so short. I can only be a good thing getting rid of one pair of joins in the system

 

[hunt2elk]

Something doesn't seem quite right with the pipes being too short. I have installed several sets of TTI exhaust kits with headers and never had that issue. I wonder if you didn't get sent the wrong kit for your car?

 

[phoenixv8]

I use Evil Energy clamps and mine leak also.. Although i welded everytime from the headers back to the mufflers and then band clamps from there so i can take it apart if needed... The worst leak i used high temp rtv on the pipe before sliding it in but it makes it hard to get apart (i take my car apart more than i drive it.. exhaust has been off and on like 7 times now)

I was going to do band clamps but don't recall why i didn't.. might switch to them next time the exhaust is off.. which will also get a o2 sensor..

It just so happens, Evil energy were the ones I went with, it's good to get feedback from someone with user experience rather than just someone trying to sell a product. The making the exhaust hard to take apart is the only reason I'm gun shy about slapping a bunch of sealant on it and calling it done.

o2 sensor bungs have already been done as I am running analogue AFR gauges for each bank

 

[phoenixv8]

Something doesn't seem quite right with the pipes being too short. I have installed several sets of TTI exhaust kits with headers and never had that issue. I wonder if you didn't get sent the wrong kit for your car?

It's more like operator error and me having the mufflers in the wrong place. I've checked the part numbers and they match up. With the exhaust system off the car at the moment, I'll take a bit more care refitting it, and hopefully the band clamps will help with the seal

 

[icetech]

It just so happens, Evil energy were the ones I went with, it's good to get feedback from someone with user experience rather than just someone trying to sell a product. The making the exhaust hard to take apart is the only reason I'm gun shy about slapping a bunch of sealant on it and calling it done.

o2 sensor bungs have already been done as I am running analogue AFR gauges for each bank

Well.. i like Evil Energy stuff.. and i don't blame them for the bands, they have a gap in them and that can leak if the pipes aren't super tight.. BUT.. i think they were like $25 a pair instead of 50 each.. and i'm cheap.. For me a small leak after the muffler isn't that big of a deal since i can't hear it i don't sweat it too much.

 

[MoparLeo]

High Temp RTV or any one of many exhaust sealants on the market.
Just check on line or EBay or Amazon.
The headers will need to be sand or bead blasted before priming.
Perfect prep and breakin are required for the VHT paint to cure and not rust.