TTI headers too close to the passenger side torsion bar

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. 493 Mike

    493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    My TTI's hit the main cap tie bolts and TTI recommended I dent the offending tubes for clearance and touchup the ceramic coating with silver header paint. I did.
    Mike
     
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    • hsorman

      hsorman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Sorry, late to the game.

      What engine do you have (B or RB) and do you have matching TTI headers? TTI makes both B and RB headers. If you pair B headers with a RB engine or vice versa you will likely have fitment issues.

      My B headers from TTI fit my 383 4 Speed Road Runner like a glove - no hammering, no rubbing, no bullshit.

      Good Luck,

      Hawk
       
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      • hunt2elk

        hunt2elk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        @69DSbee you will have to explain the big red X. I have moved the motor/trans around to get header clearance in many cars. I wouldn't be surprised if it works for the OP also.
         
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        • kiwigtx

          kiwigtx International Mod Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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          I am willing to bet it was a case of fat fingers, and he pushed the wrong button.

          What you said makes perfect sense to me. :thumbsup:
           
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          • khryslerkid

            khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Good question. B headers on a RB wouldn't be that great as close as TTI and Dougs makes them.
             
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            • themechanic

              themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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              I have a Coronet R/T. So, it has a 440 with RB headers. I said above there was no change with loosening the mount bolts. I have seen the mount shim kits advertised but they are out of stock. I may try that at some later date.

              I'm working on the brakes lately. I found out the rear disc brakes were dragging due the disc/drum master cylinder. I bought a new disc/disc master from Summit and it leaked internally. Summit sent me another and it leaked, too. So, I gave up on stock Mopar MS and ordered a Corvette MS (Ha! Kidding). I ordered a Wilwood MS. It should arrive today. Once the brakes are sorted I will drive over to my muffler shop and see what they suggest.
               
            • coloradodave

              coloradodave FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              • EARLY B

                EARLY B Well-Known Member

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                Make sure that the motor mount sits flat on the k member. A lot of the new mounts have the mounting holes drilled wrong and the nuts welded on wrong. Do this before you put them on the motor.
                 
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                • road chicken

                  road chicken Well-Known Member

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                  I used a vette Master on mine when I switched over to rear disks. I think you can use the stock Mopar unit but you have to remove the residual pressure valve thats in the drum port.
                   
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                  • themechanic

                    themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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                    I asked Cass (AKA Dr Diff) who sold me the 4 wheel disc brake kit. Cass said to use a disc/disc MS. I tried 2 of the newer ones (78 or so) and the caps leak when the brakes are applied plus they give a spongy pedal.
                     
                  • AJ/FormS

                    AJ/FormS Well-Known Member

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                    Check that your park-brake light on the dash is NOT lit up. If it is, then go to step 4.
                    check your pushrod length; you may have to shorten it.
                    This happens because the too-long pushrod prevents the piston from returning to it's proper parking spot, and so the compensating port remains blocked, and the fluid cannot return, and so the brakes drag.
                    If your pushrod is not adjustable, just shim the booster off the firewall, or raise the pedal parking spot inside the car, or shim the pedal-box off the firewall.
                    Ok lunch time!
                    The test is this;
                    The first one is this. have a helper pump the brake pedal a few times with the engine idling. On the last stroke, have him keep the pedal down.
                    Now the next step is very tricky.
                    Cover all painted surfaces with towels and such. Have a can of aerosol brakleener on hand and plenty of paper towels. Clean up any spills as quick as you can, and I follow with a soap and water wash.
                    Ok
                    Now
                    Lift the lid of the M/C and shine a flashlight in there, then signal your helper to very slowly allow the pedal to come back up, very very slowly. And the helper must be ready to stop and go back in an instant if you signal him.
                    What you should see is two little fountains of brakefluid. The height and force of ejection varies with the pedal speed, and distance release, and size of the C-port orifice. If you cannot see the fountains, close the lid and release the pedal. Now go find something that floats on the brakefluid, and repeat the test. This time the floaters, should be disturbed and be forced off in some direction or another.
                    No fountains of any kind pretty much guarantees that the fluid is not returning. Close the lid and flip the bailing handle into place. And wipe as may be required.
                    But if you have one fountain, then go to Step 4
                    Ok
                    Next test;
                    jack up the car to get the rear wheels up off the floor. Go turn them. If they don't turn freely and it's not because the pistons are not releasing mechanically,then have your helper put a continuous rotating force on one of them. The wheel does not have to rotate, he will just be applying a force to attempt to rotate one.
                    Now first, reach inside and rip up on the brake pedal and make sure it is properly parked and NOT STUCK on the brake switch.
                    If the wheel remains stuck;go back to the M/C and loosen it from the booster about 1/8 inch at least, and pull it away. If the pushrod is too long, then this action will free up the compensating port, the fluid will return, and the wheel will immediately rotate.
                    but if it does not;
                    Step 4
                    then the proportioning valve may be stuck. This should also turn your dash lite on. If yours is not on with the ignition in the run position, then prove the bulb. Do this by removing the wire off the Safety switch (which is part of the Proportioning valve; the two together are called a Combination Valve.) and grounding it, which should turn it on. If it does not then replace the bulb and retest. If it now comes on, reinstall the wire where you found it. If it now is on, and the park-brake lever is fully parked, then you have a pressure imbalance between the front and the rear system, and you will have to chase this down,before moving on.
                    But if the light is now off, then the Proportioning valve is probably OK. Probably.
                    But if you only had ONE fountain in the M/C
                    Step 5
                    You will have to release the pressure in the rear brake system, at the rear brake hose, on the m/c side, and the wheel should immediately turn
                    But if it does not, then release the pressure on the other end and this should immediately allow the rear wheel to turn, and you have proven that the hose is internally preventing the fluid from returning. It will have to be replaced.

                    Short cuts, and tips.
                    just do step 5 first,lol, with the pedal pumped up but released. This saves you from the hassle of having to protect your paint. However, this does not preclude that the pushrod is not still too long. Nor does it prove the rear hose is bad. It only proves that the fluid is not returning. You can do the exact same thing by releasing the pressure at the m/c. But you still don't know why it's not returning.
                    >Remember I said baring that the piston is not mechanically returning? The only thing that releases the pads from the disc, is seal-retraction. When you step on the brake, the pistons move out and stretch the SQUARE-section piston seals. Then when you release the pedal, and the fluid returns to the m/c thru the tiny Compensating ports ( Which can become plugged), then those special seals return to their normal relaxed state and pull the pistons with them, relaxing the pads which vibrate to some off-the-disk parking position..... which changes as the pads wear out.
                    >I have seen it happen where the discs hammer grooves in their "ways", and the turning of the disc, causes them to drag . The solution I used was to hard braze up the "ways" and file them to work again.
                    >I have also seen, and this is more common, that the calipers will stick on their sliders, and also force the discs to drag.
                    >The compensating ports have to physically be open. You can jam a thin wire thru them to prove it.
                    > That's all I can think of just now
                    > oh yeah, in regards to the Safety switch; If the system is working properly, It is self centering after a few brake applications with open compensating ports. If you have proved everything else is working correctly, and the light does not go off, then it truly is stuck.And you will have to service it. You can force the valve in either direction by opening one end of the system either front or rear, and slowly applying the brake until the light goes off....... but it makes a mess. If it doesn't go off with the fronts leaking, then you will have to repeat with the rear leaking. This assumes the parking brake system is fully disengaged because it shares the light.
                    > and one more; the brake system does not care if you have a disc/drum or a drum/drum, or a disc/disc m/c on it.These are only a convenience to reduce your maintenance time as the reservoirs are adequately sized for long time periods between adding fluid. The guts inside Mopar m/c (*1) are NO different, except as to the bore sizes, which you can freely swap around to get the feel you like, or the braking power you might need.
                    (*1) , as to the dual m/cs from the beginning to the mid 70s/early 80s; all that I have worked on
                     
                    Last edited: Feb 2, 2020
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                    • themechanic

                      themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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                      Thanks for the in-depth instructions.

                      I changed the MS to a disc/disc one without the residual pressure valve. That fixed the rear brake lock up problem.

                      The booster is also bad. The new one is on the way.
                       
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