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Turn Signal Cancel Cam Post Length

UncleAl

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The original steering wheel on my '69 Charger R/T has to be changed, so I bought a reproduction from Prestige that is the exact measurements and style of the original, except for maybe one thing.
The cam ring, that holds the copper ring with horn wire on the back of the steering wheel, has a post that cancels the turn signals, that is 1/8 inch longer than the one on the original steering wheel cam ring. When installing the steering wheel and tightening the bolt holding it on, I thought I had the wheel tightened down to it's finished depth and didn't want to over tighten the bolt and risk stripping the threads on the bolt or steering shaft. I went on to install the OE horn switch and test it to see if it worked. It didn't, which puzzled me, because if I ground the post with the little wheel that rides the copper ring, on the back of the steering wheel, to the center steering post, the horns work. I checked the little wheel and saw that it was missing making contact with the back of the steering wheel by about an 1/8 of an inch. This showed that the steering wheel was still too high on the shaft. I'm concerned that the extra 1/8 of an inch on that post is stopping the wheel from seating properly, and even more concerned that it may break the turn signal switch.
Has anybody run into this or a similar problem? And if so, how did you resolve it?
 
Sounds like your reproduction wheel is not fitting correctly. If the canceling rod was to long and causing the problem the wheel would bind which I doubt it is. If it was the exact measurement then it would fit and work correctly.
 
The original steering wheel on my '69 Charger R/T has to be changed, so I bought a reproduction from Prestige that is the exact measurements and style of the original, except for maybe one thing.
The cam ring, that holds the copper ring with horn wire on the back of the steering wheel, has a post that cancels the turn signals, that is 1/8 inch longer than the one on the original steering wheel cam ring. When installing the steering wheel and tightening the bolt holding it on, I thought I had the wheel tightened down to it's finished depth and didn't want to over tighten the bolt and risk stripping the threads on the bolt or steering shaft. I went on to install the OE horn switch and test it to see if it worked. It didn't, which puzzled me, because if I ground the post with the little wheel that rides the copper ring, on the back of the steering wheel, to the center steering post, the horns work. I checked the little wheel and saw that it was missing making contact with the back of the steering wheel by about an 1/8 of an inch. This showed that the steering wheel was still too high on the shaft. I'm concerned that the extra 1/8 of an inch on that post is stopping the wheel from seating properly, and even more concerned that it may break the turn signal switch.
Has anybody run into this or a similar problem? And if so, how did you resolve it?
I've been installing and uninstalling both the original steering wheel and the reproduction steering wheel and taking measurements. As it stands now, the reproduction steering wheel will not go all the way on the grooved steering column stub. It still needs to go on 1/8 inch in order for it match the original steering wheel.
I've tried torquing the retention nut as hard as I can, as well as putting a socket on the steering wheel center over the steering column stub and hitting it with a hammer to drive it on further, but it just won't budge that last 1/8th inch.
I'm thinking about heating the steering wheel center to expand the opening, but that would need to be done carefully as there is a wire and a fiber washer attached to the center hub.
Any suggestions on how to accomplish that last 1/8th inch?
 
I've been installing and uninstalling both the original steering wheel and the reproduction steering wheel and taking measurements. As it stands now, the reproduction steering wheel will not go all the way on the grooved steering column stub. It still needs to go on 1/8 inch in order for it match the original steering wheel.
I've tried torquing the retention nut as hard as I can, as well as putting a socket on the steering wheel center over the steering column stub and hitting it with a hammer to drive it on further, but it just won't budge that last 1/8th inch.
I'm thinking about heating the steering wheel center to expand the opening, but that would need to be done carefully as there is a wire and a fiber washer attached to the center hub.
Any suggestions on how to accomplish that last 1/8th inch?
Send the junk back to where you bought it from.
 
Just to follow up on my original post.
The solution I came up with was to get a set of small hand files from Harbor Freight and spend several hours hand filing each groove in the hole that fits over the steering rod, deeper. I made that decision after measuring the groove depth on the original steering wheel vs. the new steering wheel. That resolved the fitting depth problem.
However, the horns still wouldn't sound when the horn ring was pressed. A little electrical testing of the contact points for the horn circuit under the steering wheel hub revealed that the wire, that was soldered to the copper ring on the back of the steering wheel hub, was poorly soldered and had to be resoldered. See the blue circled area in the picture for where the wire had to be resoldered.
The steering wheel was bought from PG Classic, out of Canada, before the tariffs went into effect. Maybe the fit problem was due to the wheel coming from Canada (metric sizing) and going on a USA vehicle (SAE sizing), the grooved hole was just off that little bit.
But it's on now and everything works.

Back of 1970 Steering Wheel Hub Solder Point.jpg
 
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