Unplugged

[jimmyd]

I was driving home wed. night and my '67 Coronet just shut off. Just like someone unplugged it. While waiting for the tow truck I tried to diagnose it. It would crank over just fine. I pulled the #1 plug wire and no spark. I then unplugged coil wire and no spark from coil. I then used my multimeter to check for voltage and had 12 volts at the coil. So I thought I had a bad coil. I took it back this morning and swapped it for another one. I took it back home and hooked it up and it still wouldn't start. After that I went to the fsm and printed a few wiring diagrams and traced the wires out. Everything looked ok. I want to add that when I left that afternoon I had no dash lights. Another thing I did was install a Skip White Electronic Dizzy. I don't know if the dash lights being out had anything to do with it or maybe the H.E.I. module went out. Sorry for rambling. Does anyone have any ideas? I mean it was like you turned the key off when it happened. Thanks in advance for any help, ideas, or guidance.:confused3:

 

[ArtH]

Is the module a GM HEI type like this:



They run about $25 ~ at most part stores. Here's a site that explains how to test it. http://forums.hotrod.com/car-craft/70/661769/general-car-craft-discussion/gm-hei-ignition-module-testing/

 

[jimmyd]

No, it is a Skip White Dist. It has the H.E.I. module that is on the side of the unit. I have a strong feeling that may be the problem. I was at work all day and just got home so I didn't get a chance to check it. I guess I'll call Skip White Performance monday and try to figure this out.

 

[nm9stheham]

The dash lights most likely have nothing to do with it; that is a completely separate circuit.

One area to check is to see if you have that 12V to the ignition system when the car is actually cranking; the running ignition power feed (IGN1) on the blue wire is separate from the power feed from the ignition switch when cranking (IGN2); the latter is on the brown wire that goes direct to coil+ in the stock wiring. IGN1 (blue wire) has no power when you have the key in START and if you don't somehow connect the IGN2 (brown wire) into the circuit too, you wil have no power to the ignitionn when cranking. If the engine is spinning when you go let of the key from START to RUN, then it might catch at that point in time.

Check the installation instructions carefully and see if there is somethign in there about connecting both the blue and brown ignition wires together to the coil + and the new distributor.

 

[ArtH]

I've some of their distributors and I have a feeling if you open that box on the side you will find a GM HEI module inside. There have been conversions using a Mopar electronic distributor (Hall Effect) and GM HEI modules and coils. It's a good alternative to the Mopar electronic conversion kits.

 

[jimmyd]

I've some of their distributors and I have a feeling if you open that box on the side you will find a GM HEI module inside. There have been conversions using a Mopar electronic distributor (Hall Effect) and GM HEI modules and coils. It's a good alternative to the Mopar electronic conversion kits.

I hope it's a good alternative but for the price I do wonder.

- - - Updated - - -

The dash lights most likely have nothing to do with it; that is a completely separate circuit.

One area to check is to see if you have that 12V to the ignition system when the car is actually cranking; the running ignition power feed (IGN1) on the blue wire is separate from the power feed from the ignition switch when cranking (IGN2); the latter is on the brown wire that goes direct to coil+ in the stock wiring. IGN1 (blue wire) has no power when you have the key in START and if you don't somehow connect the IGN2 (brown wire) into the circuit too, you wil have no power to the ignitionn when cranking. If the engine is spinning when you go let of the key from START to RUN, then it might catch at that point in time.

Check the installation instructions carefully and see if there is somethign in there about connecting both the blue and brown ignition wires together to the coil + and the new distributor.

I figured the dash lights were a different issue. No fuses blown though. I will double check about the blue and brown wires and see whats going on. It's funny how it was like someone just turned the key off while driving down the road. I'll keep digging!

 

[jimmyd]

Is the module a GM HEI type like this:

View attachment 222407

They run about $25 ~ at most part stores. Here's a site that explains how to test it. http://forums.hotrod.com/car-craft/70/661769/general-car-craft-discussion/gm-hei-ignition-module-testing/

I was reading some other sites and a module they showed looked like the one in your pic. If that's whats inside the cover i'll purchase one if mine tests bad.

 

[jimmyd]

I took the cover off of the Skip White dizzy and the module looked like this:
#3 has a green wire attached
#7 has a white wire attached
#15 has a red wire attached and
#16 has a black wire attached
I had it tested and sure enough it was bad. After only a week of driving.
Anyway after a couple days of calling I finally got through to someone.
I told them what happened and they are sending me a new one.
I went all over town to find some kind of replacement module but nothing could be found that would even match up with it. I'm sure glad it has a lifetime warranty!

 

[jimmyd]

Could using the wrong kind of coil fry a module like the White Performance one or was it just my luck?:confused5:
I went to the fsm to double check ign. circuit and all was good, eg:wired correctly. Just waiting on the module.:icon_eyes:

 

[ArtH]

Could using the wrong kind of coil fry a module like the White Performance one or was it just my luck?:confused5:
I went to the fsm to double check ign. circuit and all was good, eg:wired correctly. Just waiting on the module.:icon_eyes:

Maybe. Have you contacted Skip White products? Here's part of the instructions for one type of distributor they sell.

ALL THIS UNIT NEEDS IS A FRESH 12 VOLT COIL, AND YOU SIMPLY HOOK UP THE TWO WIRES COMING FROM THIS DISTRIBUTOR TO THE COIL, AND THAT S IT. NOTICE THE CHROME BOX ON THE LOWER SIDE OF OUR DISTRIBUTOR, THAT S WHERE THE GM STYLE MODULE IS LOCATED. THE MODULE IS NOT THE VERY SAME MODULE GM USES, BUT IT IS THE SAME DESIGN.

I bet it is the same, they just had the wire connections relocated to fit their distributor better. You've left out a lot of information like what engine you are running and which distributor you have ( model number). Call them and find out what coil you need to be running. BTW, with electronics, too much or too little can damage them. Find out what they recommend.

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/listview.aspx?Product=A&Sub=C

 

[jimmyd]

Maybe. Have you contacted Skip White products? Here's part of the instructions for one type of distributor they sell.

ALL THIS UNIT NEEDS IS A FRESH 12 VOLT COIL, AND YOU SIMPLY HOOK UP THE TWO WIRES COMING FROM THIS DISTRIBUTOR TO THE COIL, AND THAT S IT. NOTICE THE CHROME BOX ON THE LOWER SIDE OF OUR DISTRIBUTOR, THAT S WHERE THE GM STYLE MODULE IS LOCATED. THE MODULE IS NOT THE VERY SAME MODULE GM USES, BUT IT IS THE SAME DESIGN.

I bet it is the same, they just had the wire connections relocated to fit their distributor better. You've left out a lot of information like what engine you are running and which distributor you have ( model number). Call them and find out what coil you need to be running. BTW, with electronics, too much or too little can damage them. Find out what they recommend.

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/listview.aspx?Product=A&Sub=C

I did contact Skip White and explained what happened what happened. Daniel said all I needed was a non resistor coil. The dizzy's part # was 6713-R Small block mopar. I picked up a IC24 coil from napa before I hooked everything up. My man at NAPA said it was one of the most powerful coils (factory) they sell. Thats why I was wondering about the coil. Just need to check if it's a resistor coil or not.

 

[jimmyd]

Got the new module tue. and installed it wed. Fired right up! The ole' 318 is purring again. Think I'll take the '67 Coronet out for a cruise in the rain!:duckie:

 

[jimmyd]

Well, it did it again. Took the '67 Coronet out for a cruise this afternoon to fill up and check mpg. Looks like 11 mpg. Anyway I was coming back home and stopped at the store to get a lottery ticket. Went to leave and it did it again. It wouldn't start. Had a friend help and check for spark and it had none. So I called Hagerty for roadside service and waited. They had trouble finding a wrecker service so I waited some more. Prolly an hour by now. I thought I would try to crank it one more time and it started! So I called back and cancelled the service. I guess the module got hot and quit and cooled off and started??? This is one of those White Performance dizzys. The first module tested bad so I thought this one fried too. Any thoughts why it gets so hot it quits? It's got plenty of heat transfer paste.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

check the bulkhead connector