unswedge me

[Bob Jordan]

Anyone around Gregory MI that can help or tell me how to remove the hubs from the original drums on this 64 Fury? To be clear - I want to KEEP the studs in the hub - just remove the drum

 

[khryslerkid]

You might be able to use a deep hole saw down over the stud to cut the drum away. You saw needs to have the correct inside diameter.

Here's the fronts that I separated the hub from the drum so you can see what you're dealing with.
Post in thread 'Taking Up New Residence' Taking Up New Residence

 

[khryslerkid]

Here's a members post with the hole saw...
Post in thread 'Hub stuck to drums' Hub stuck to drums

If you cut away the diameter of the knurled area, your drums will fit sloppy at each stud. If the drum center hole fits snug on the hub it may not matter.

 

[khryslerkid]

And another option with part numbers listed.

Mopar Tapered Axle Brakes

 

[Lefty71]

And another option with part numbers listed.

My leaf springs showed up today...so I'm still in the middle of this as well. I checked the part numbers listed in the above article with NAPA....both wheel studs and drums available, so numbers are still good, as far as I can tell....will repost when items arrive.

 

[steve340]

I did a Ford T Bird one by sitting the drum on some wooden blocks and just bashed the hub out with a 4 pound hammer another block of wood and a big punch.

 

[RemCharger]

Lol.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Anyone around Gregory MI that can help or tell me how to remove the hubs from the original drums on this 64 Fury? To be clear - I want to KEEP the studs in the hub - just remove the drum

I just wrote this posting today. Converting early taper axles/hubs to use later removable brake drums and all RH lug studs.
You could keep the studs by doing this, but the shoulders will be cut away and the drums will be trashed. It isn't too hard to replace the studs, but the left hand threads are not readily available. I happen to have one of my old studs here, and will post a pic so you can see what will be left.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Irwin or other brand makes a hole saw size I think 11/16" will just fit over 1/2" studs and is deep enough to reach drums. Need buy an arbor that you can remove the drill. Don't know if it will get to dull cutting 5 or 10 holes through drums. Might last with cutting oil?

 

[Ron H]

Among the reasons I swapped out the '63 rear with a '65...

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Irwin or other brand makes a hole saw size I think 11/16" will just fit over 1/2" studs and is deep enough to reach drums. Need buy an arbor that you can remove the drill. Don't know if it will get to dull cutting 5 or 10 holes through drums. Might last with cutting oil?

11/16" is correct for our 1/2"-20 studs. I think A body 7/16" studs will need the 5/8" hole saw. I got ten studs cut out with one of these. Broke off three teeth, but it kept working. Go slow and use oil....

 

[451Mopar]

I used my drill press as a makeshift milling machine with an end mill chucked in. set the table where the bit just cleared the drum, and then moved the stud around the milling bit to cut the swedging off. Took some time, but worked without hurting the drum. The studs could have been re-used, but replaced them anyway.

 

[Bob Jordan]

I asked a couple local machine shops if they could help and all I got was "the look".

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Yeah, most machine shops would probably not be familiar with the swaged lugs. Chrysler last used them in 1964. When doing my research, I found that other manufacturers used them as well. Jeeps and International Scouts and trucks had them, as well as a lot of early Ford products. But, I am guessing that they have not been used on a newer vehicle in the last 40 to 50 years or so...

 

[moparedtn]

Yeah, most machine shops would probably not be familiar with the swaged lugs. Chrysler last used them in 1964. When doing my research, I found that other manufacturers used them as well. Jeeps and International Scouts and trucks had them, as well as a lot of early Ford products. But, I am guessing that they have not been used on a newer vehicle in the last 40 to 50 years or so...

Oh no no no, swaged (or "swedged") wheel studs went on for longer than that.
My '68 had them, for example (or did, anyways - until all my fun brake overhaul recently).

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Oh no no no, swaged (or "swedged") wheel studs went on for longer than that.
My '68 had them, for example (or did, anyways - until all my fun brake overhaul recently).

Well Ed, my bad.. I was thinking about the tapered rear axles. But then again, 1968 WAS 54 years ago.....

 

[moparedtn]

Well Ed, my bad.. I was thinking about the tapered rear axles. But then again, 1968 WAS 54 years ago.....

Up through at least 1970...maybe longer?
You know what? I still don't know what the correct part numbers are, either Dorman or Chrysler, for the proper studs!!

 

[Big Bad Dad]

View attachment 1319898
Up through at least 1970...maybe longer?
You know what? I still don't know what the correct part numbers are, either Dorman or Chrysler, for the proper studs!!

Fronts or rears? They may be different... If you have an old stud, Dorman has a chart that can be used to match them up.

 

[Bob Jordan]

I have studs for eventual repair.........I got them from someone on this here forum.

 

[moparedtn]

Fronts or rears? They may be different... If you have an old stud, Dorman has a chart that can be used to match them up.

They are different indeed - and I don't know either of the part numbers for the correct ones.