Updating the Super Street Mopar

[Budnicks]

There will be plenty of stock or stock based stuff on the car still. Like not going coil over/4 link. No thanks.

I like it...



Anyway
you have a ton of work in that tank recess or shell...
my eyes are tired now, & I didn't read most of the other's comments

good build thread
pretty good read, will I retain any of it ?, possibly
hope I remember where to find it...

I like the style of the build & making it your own,
style & flare...

should have posted this in the Resto-mod Pro-Touring forum (too)
but;
I don't know if it was started yet, when you started the build & thread

Should be a runner & handler too...

 

[ckessel]

He coulda just went with this and some foil tape (fancier than duct tape) but he had to show off...
View attachment 1738799

Those units are as useless as Mammaries on a male pig.. Anyway, it would have been too tall, the elements don't filter poo, don't last yada, yada, yada. Sold many while working at the speed shop back in the day. Anyway...I wanted to have a sealed unit not exposed to heated underhood air. Keep the air intake charge as dense/cool as possible. My hood is flat and nice, so didn't want to do a scoop. I looked into ducting either to the inner fenders or a combo of through the inner fender into the back of the headlights. Lots more work, ducting sticking out like pimple[ ugly] so decided to do NASCAR style. My first attempt wasn't coming out well. The 4 year break in between[ moving, garage build, lawsuit fun, life, surgery etc] helped me get more creative. Starting off with just the panels on the floor and going from there helped me regain skills/confidence with my machines to get me the semi finished unit you see. Besides, this stuff is fun!

 

[icetech]

Those units are as useless as Mammaries on a male pig.. Anyway, it would have been too tall, the elements don't filter poo, don't last yada, yada, yada. Sold many while working at the speed shop back in the day. Anyway...I wanted to have a sealed unit not exposed to heated underhood air. Keep the air intake charge as dense/cool as possible. My hood is flat and nice, so didn't want to do a scoop. I looked into ducting either to the inner fenders or a combo of through the inner fender into the back of the headlights. Lots more work, ducting sticking out like pimple[ ugly] so decided to do NASCAR style. My first attempt wasn't coming out well. The 4 year break in between[ moving, garage build, lawsuit fun, life, surgery etc] helped me get more creative. Starting off with just the panels on the floor and going from there helped me regain skills/confidence with my machines to get me the semi finished unit you see. Besides, this stuff is fun!

Naw, what you did is just awesome And i picked that cleaner cause i know how bad it is... and how they like to burn

 

[ckessel]

I like it...



Anyway
you have a ton of work in that tank recess or shell...
my eyes are tired now, & I didn't read most of the other's comments

good build thread
pretty good read, will I retain any of it ?, possibly
hope I remember where to find it...

I like the style of the build & making it your own,
style & flare...

should have posted this in the Resto-mod Pro-Touring forum (too)
but;
I don't know if it was started yet, when you started the build & thread

Should be a runner & handler too...

Yeah, I think it should have been over there. But at the time, the current spot seemed appropriate. Since I changed directions, the other is probably more fitting. BTW, thank you for reading this.

 

[ckessel]

Naw, what you did is just awesome And i picked that cleaner cause i know how bad it is... and how they like to burn

Doesn't take much as I learned by how many we sold. Then there is the filtration[ not] quality.

 

[ckessel]

Today I actually got to spend some time on the 65. Had to get my MacAir on the charge so I could get the BAT ad going on the Chevy truck, so good time for some welding. Did some tack welding on the rear portion for the tank.

 

[ckessel]

Some deviation as I don't want to start a separate thread for the 67.
Taking the wagon on the Power Tour was nice. It was great to give it a long stretch, 1700 miles worth, and see what issues pop up. Prior to the tour, I could occasionally hear a clicking while going slow through parking lots. With the tour the clicking got more pronounced. I do hear bearing noise occasionally from the rear, PO put Green's on the axles, but it was more pronounced on the front. Knowing it had the aftermarket Disc O Tech conversion, I figured that the wheel bearings were toast so I ordered up some Timkens, plus seals, off of the Rock. They came in so I tossed the front end of the wagon on stands and pulled the lh wheel off, then the rest of the items. The bearings looked a little under greased but I set about to change them. Then I noticed that the conversion used Timkens. Cool. Set the rotor down and knocked out the outer race, then flipped it to do the inner. Problem! There were no reliefs/notches cast in the center to give access to the inner race on the back side. So I cleaned the bearings out and inspected for brinnelling, erosion etc. Nothing there so I just repacked that side. Went to the right side and it did have some access to the inner race, but I chose to just clean and repack[ not enough grease again prior] since the bearings looked fine anyway. No clicking from the front now so far! I'll use those bearings later as the 13" disc brake package I got from the Doc some years ago, for the 65, have Chinesium bearings in the hubs. I was able to get seals and gaskets for the rear axles at Woodley so just need the set 7's, Amazon has Timken's FYI, plus round up the axle retainers. Have a line on those.
The PO put a Holley Street Avenger, 770 cfm vac sec, on when he put the 440 in. He dropped the front jets down to 70's from installed 72's. I put 68's in, plus a new power valve, to try and lean it out some more as its way fat. Helped some but it's still too fat. The SA has 4 hole idle screws, but they make hardly any difference. So at Woodley, I scored a 3310-2 universal 780 cfm vac sec, for $75.00. My Holley kit came in yesterday, from Amazon, so today I put most of it together. Will switch out sometime this week. I did soak the metering block in Acetone for a few days, so fingers crossed, the 3310 should be better. A tip I learned many years ago from a magazine tech article was how to do a no dollar check valve as backfire/cough/sneeze protection for the power valve. The Holley kit comes with numerous items that don't get used. One of them is a ball bearing which happens to be .185" in diameter. So you use a .187[ 3/16] to .203" drill, drill down into the throttle plate up to .200" deep with the throttle plate supported on the backside while using a drill press, then put a small Philips driver or bit in the hole and give it a couple of light whacks[ supported on the backside of course] and this will leave 4 small divots in the bottom. This allows vacuum to get to the valve but when it goes the other way, the passage gets cut off thereby protecting the valve. I'm showing which hole/holes[ if using two power valves].

 

[ckessel]

I had some time today so I did some welding. Got the sides of the nest welded in. I'm just about out of gas so in a week after I get back from SEMA, I'll pop down to Santa Maria and score a fresh refill. After that, continue the welding.

 

[ckessel]

Got some welding done today. Have the majority of the perimeter stitched. Next go around will be to knock the welds down then do some more stitching.

 

[ckessel]

Did a couple hours with of grinding this afternoon then ran the suck o luxe to pick up the grit.

 

[ckessel]

Today I was able to plug up the three areas where there was too much gap leftover form all of the cutting. I was originally going to cut some skinny pieces to use for fill but with the MIG I figured those would just get blown away once the trigger was pulled. Instead I used some flattened Copper pipe for backing and filled the areas up.

 

[ckessel]

Yesterday I knocked those three areas down, good to go there. Went to put the lid on, didn't fit. WTF! I guess the nest sucked in some when I welded it in place even though I had it held in place with screws and checked the fit on the lid before pulling the trigger. I ended up cutting weld on the lh side of the lid frame and moved it in about 1/8". Good to go now. Next go around will be to put in Nutserts for the lid to fasten to.

 

[ckessel]

Back to our regular scheduled program.Spent some time on the wagon getting the light working.
I measured and marked lines on the lid, them made some tick marks where I needed to drill through the lid and then into the floor. After I did all of the ones on the lid, I set it into the nest and started punching into the floor. Did a few and pulled up the lid, then I realized I forgot one part of the equation. The compressed od of the NutSerts. Idiot! Thats why you see two sets of holes in the lid. Redid the layout after that brainfart. Popped all of the holes into the floor, whipped out the suck o lux and cleared out the chips from the drilling holes in the floor. After that I put some rust encapsulator in the holes and then as I was putting the inserts in, I coated the outsides of them. All of those are in now. I'll enlarge the holes in the lid, then I just need my fasteners which should be here this weekend. 1/4" button head stainless with stainless fender washers too.

 

[ckessel]

Today I blasted the internal frame coating into the lap seams and some other areas. Made sure I vacuumed up the loose debris first though. Sometime later on I'll put the seam sealer on.

 

[ckessel]

Bolts and washers showed up today, need more though. The lid is pulled down now. There are some areas where I need to work for better fit but so far so good.

 

[ckessel]

Today after moving some machines around and vacuuming the floor, I started working on the exhaust. I'm going to reuse as much of the 3" TTI stuff as possible. So I started fitting up the reducers first. I then decided to put an angle gauge on the engine oil pan rail as a just because. Good thing I did as it was almost 8*. WOW! Moved the trans up some and now have around 2*, much better. That makes the lh reducer unusable right now due to the room available. Will rustle up some pie cuts to remedy that. Of course with the change in angle, the air filter to firewall duct changed. Easy fix on the duct. Make a new one.

 

[icetech]

Today after moving some machines around and vacuuming the floor, I started working on the exhaust. I'm going to reuse as much of the 3" TTI stuff as possible. So I started fitting up the reducers first. I then decided to put an angle gauge on the engine oil pan rail as a just because. Good thing I did as it was almost 8*. WOW! Moved the trans up some and now have around 2*, much better. That makes the lh reducer unusable right now due to the room available. Will rustle up some pie cuts to remedy that. Of course with the change in angle, the air filter to firewall duct changed. Easy fix on the duct. Make a new one.

View attachment 1781963

damn... soo much time into that duct.... lesson learned though. 8* was a lot

 

[ckessel]

Yeah. Better now than later though.

 

[ckessel]

Ok. I was able to get the tank lid fitted up a little better. Put it through the shrinker a few times with hammer/dolly in between shrink sessions. Once I got that done I repositioned and trimmed the mount pad for the trans unit. Have 2* or so now on the pan rail. From there started working on the lh header trying the two different reducers to see what would work best for fit. I ended up needing to get a pack of pie cuts for the fitment. I marked, cut, filed the collector. From there I held one pie cut in place while I held the other end of the collector, with one reducer at a time, to see what the best position of the pie cut would be. Once I had the best spot, I marked the pie and tacked it to the header. With that tacked I worked with the reducers bolted one at a time to the end of the collector to check again for best fit. I ended up just needing one pie piece for the header and tacked the remainder of the collector on. From there I tried the two reducer combos again to see which would be best. The straight unit will be best and I ordered up a set of 3" pie cuts to work that around. I have the reducer marked so I can cut it and be ready for moving it around when the cuts show up. After I get the lh side squared away, I'll work on the rh side. From there I'll see how much of the existing system I can re-use.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Looks good. Pie cut or 2 after the adapter to get the pipes up into the exhaust indentations in the trans crossmember and it'll be done. What was tge issue with the tank cover?