vibrating at 2000 rpms sitting still.

[dvw]

If its a higher dollar converter send it in and gt it looked at. Though I've never seen a broken converter cause a vibration. It would have to be really torn up.
Doug

 

[Ernie ingling]

Have u tried unbolting TC push it back off the flex plate ? If vib gone u have answer

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Have u tried unbolting TC push it back off the flex plate ? If vib gone u have answer

Kinda hard to start a Mopar with the convertor unbolted & pushed back.... Must play the Chevies.....

 

[Ernie ingling]

I been doing this for 50 yrs. think about it. Flex bolted to crank tc not starter still engages flex starts engine

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I been doing this for 50 yrs. think about it. Flex bolted to crank tc not starter still engages flex starts engine

Ring gear welded to T/C...

 

[Ernie ingling]

Works most time otherwise u need. To unbolt real fast as u hit the starter

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Works most time otherwise u need. To unbolt real fast as u hit the starter

 

[dadsbee]

HAHAHAHA

 

[Ernie ingling]

Sorry a tad stoned

 

[BB BELLA]

I had no idea about ring/converter being one piece. never owned a mopar with shift assist!

 

[Lefty71]

Works most time otherwise u need. To unbolt real fast as u hit the starter

I'm not trying that!! I'll just take your word for it.

 

[WP29440SE]

is it running on 7 cylinders? misfiring? check firing order? that converter uses 2 20 gram weights welded to each side of the drain plug just an FYI.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm not trying that!! I'll just take your word for it.

Where's your sense of adventure? Come on earn that Lefty screen name...

 

[Street fighter]

on the 360 I have which came out of a 80 dodge car the converter has two weights on it one on each side of the drain plug of the converter. and the flex plate is stock I checked my papers that I keep on everything I put on the car and it showed that I got the converter nine years ago. I don't think it would have 2000 miles on it because I don't drive it that much.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Feel your pain. It stinks to switch something that may not be the fix. Time and money gone. I don't know what brand your converter is but I've read of some B&M converters giving up in the manner you described. Your problem is unusual though...nothing common about your problem or the solution so hang in there.

 

[Don Frelier]

I really doubt it's a balance problem inside the motor.
My son had to change the balancer on his 5.9L truck after about 3 years ~50,000 miles) but it was an inexpensive Dayco from RockAuto.
Assuming it runs well, I would suggest putting a harmonic balancer on it first.
A lot less work than changing a converter and for $150-200 you still have a new balancer.
You probably know this but anyway an install note:
Lightly sand the balancer snout with 400 emery cloth to create a crosshatch.
A light coat of oil before installing.

If that fails, then the converter would be plan B.
Good luck with it.

 

[dvw]

Works most time otherwise u need. To unbolt real fast as u hit the starter

Ya right. Send us a video.
Doug

 

[Ernie ingling]

Soon as cast comes off from last try

 

[pearljam724]

You might have 2 separate issues. I have the same engine and had the 2 exact same vibration problems. Idle and 70mph. It took me several months to fix it. A lot of inspecting and replacing parts. But, I finally fixed it. When I changed my u joints, amongst addressing several other things. That I thought would remedy the 70mph vibration. I noticed the inside walls of the rear yoke had the smallest amount of wear from the u joint c clips rubbing against the inside of the yoke walls. To me, at that time. It was an extremely small amount of wear. Thinking, no way that’s causing the problem. I took the rear yoke to a driveshaft shop several months later when I was about to give up on chasing the vibration. They pointed out the c clip wear grooves that I already was aware of. But, didn’t think it could cause a problem. Rather, than buying a new rear yoke. They took a punch of some kind and made little dimples where the wear was to expand that area. Fixed my 70 mph vibration. Don’t under estimate yoke wear on the rear or front yokes. The front yoke splines wear too. People bend the ears over the years incorrectly installing new u joints. I would have driveshaft balanced if I were you. If that doesn’t work. Look at replacing a yoke at a time. Then I would move onto tailshaft bushing and bearing. As already mentioned. Harmonic balancer and torque converter not being balanced for idle vibration. That’s important because a 360 is externally balanced. People swap 360’s into 318 cars. 318’s are internally balanced. People install 318 balancers on 360 engines.
Most importantly, check that all engine mount bolts are tight enough. People install engines and forget to tighten them sometimes. Engine mounts bought today are North Korean, junk. They split and don’t last longer than several months sometimes.
While the car is idling, observe the engine mounts with a good phone camera. You can see, if they are split or moving a little.

 

[Street fighter]

You might have 2 separate issues. I have the same engine and had the 2 exact same vibration problems. Idle and 70mph. It took me several months to fix it. A lot of inspecting and replacing parts. But, I finally fixed it. When I changed my u joints, amongst addressing several other things. That I thought would remedy the 70mph vibration. I noticed the inside walls of the rear yoke had the smallest amount of wear from the u joint c clips rubbing against the inside of the yoke walls. To me, at that time. It was an extremely small amount of wear. Thinking, no way that’s causing the problem. I took the rear yoke to a driveshaft shop several months later when I was about to give up on chasing the vibration. They pointed out the c clip wear grooves that I already was aware of. But, didn’t think it could cause a problem. Rather, than buying a new rear yoke. They took a punch of some kind and made little dimples where the wear was to expand that area. Fixed my 70 mph vibration. Don’t under estimate yoke wear on the rear or front yokes. The front yoke splines wear too. People bend the ears over the years incorrectly installing new u joints. I would have driveshaft balanced if I were you. If that doesn’t work. Look at replacing a yoke at a time. Then I would move onto tailshaft bushing and bearing. As already mentioned. Harmonic balancer and torque converter not being balanced for idle vibration. That’s important because a 360 is externally balanced. People swap 360’s into 318 cars. 318’s are internally balanced. People install 318 balancers on 360 engines.
Most importantly, check that all engine mount bolts are tight enough. People install engines and forget to tighten them sometimes. Engine mounts bought today are North Korean, junk. They split and don’t last longer than several months sometimes.
While the car is idling, observe the engine mounts with a good phone camera. You can see, if they are split or moving a little.