Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

[Kern Dog]

I may have come up with a way. I made this crude drawing of an overhead view.
The tire is shown straight and turning right.

I’d first thought I’d run the lines as shown in yellow highlighter. If I get another 4 port manifold and use 90 degree fittings on all 8 ports, I might be able to keep the lines against the firewall and fender apron and out of the way of any contact with the tire.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

and then it will look pro! I like it.

 

[Kern Dog]

 

[1 Wild R/T]

View attachment 1596727

Just remember every fitting is a potential leak..
Those pretty plates with four passages represent eight potential leaks... And that doesn't count the crimps as potential leaks...

 

[1 Wild R/T]

This design cuts the number of potential leaks in half..

 

[1 Wild R/T]

On my Falcon project the A/C lines are mostly hidden in the wheel well but they are formed hard lines mostly protected by a sheet metal guard...

 

[Kern Dog]

I do have some of these:

The store I found today has more if I need them.
I was more concerned with the hard bends of the thick wall A/C rubber lines so these could be fitted to the firewall for them. The heater hoses are under far less pressure so I wonder if a 2 port manifold would work or just a gentle U-turn, through the firewall then straight to aim back toward the heater core fittings....

 

[1 Wild R/T]

For the heater I'd look at a barbed bulkhead fitting like this.. No extra threaded fittings just barbs...

Then a trip to the auto parts store with a request to look through their molded heater hoses...

molded heater hoses automotive at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

I'm sure something will work....

 

[Kern Dog]

Thank you. I knew you'd have some great ideas. I've struggled a lot on this one.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

When looking at molded heater hoses if you pick one with enough bends you can get both under dash hoses from one hose...You might even be able to route the heater hoses through the original heater hose location which would make folks looking think the stock heater is still in use...

 

[1 Wild R/T]

BTW I don't see it as struggling, your looking for the bestest cleanest way.... That's not struggling, that's thinking twice & cutting once... I have boxes of A/C fittings from projects cause I do the same thing....

 

[Kern Dog]

When looking at molded heater hoses if you pick one with enough bends you can get both under dash hoses from one hose...You might even be able to route the heater hoses through the original heater hose location which would make folks looking think the stock heater is still in use...

That would be great if possible, I'm not sure if it is.

The black dots represent the punched holes, the red lines are about where the heater core fittings are with the right being the EVAP unit and the left end being the outlets where the hoses connect. If someone made a molded hose with a 180 in it, that would be interesting but there are some compound turns involved.
I had considered leaving the Vintage Air firewall plate off and just blocking the heater hose holes with body plugs.

BTW I don't see it as struggling, your looking for the bestest cleanest way.... That's not struggling, that's thinking twice & cutting once... I have boxes of A/C fittings from projects cause I do the same thing....

Thanks again. CAA made things so much easier but my kit didn't allow for much modification....I just dealt with what I got and made it work. Vintage allows a more custom installation but that means more brain work to make it fit and work.

 

[70ChargerRT]

That would be great if possible, I'm not sure if it is.

View attachment 1596758

The black dots represent the punched holes, the red lines are about where the heater core fittings are with the right being the EVAP unit and the left end being the outlets where the hoses connect. If someone made a molded hose with a 180 in it, that would be interesting but there are some compound turns involved.
I had considered leaving the Vintage Air firewall plate off and just blocking the heater hose holes with body plugs.



Thanks again. CAA made things so much easier but my kit didn't allow for much modification....I just dealt with what I got and made it work. Vintage allows a more custom installation but that means more brain work to make it fit

The 69 non air RR I’m close to buying would use the same Vintage air kit as my Charger. If I’d put AC in the car I’m thinking about trying to keep the original heater hoses in the same location if I can. I haven’t been home since Christmas so I can’t run out in the garage to look at it to see what kind of adjustments, hoses, fittings I’d need to make it work. Then I Could minimize cutting only 2 holes in the firewall.

 

[70ChargerRT]

When looking at molded heater hoses if you pick one with enough bends you can get both under dash hoses from one hose...You might even be able to route the heater hoses through the original heater hose location which would make folks looking think the stock heater is still in use...

That’s what I thought about doing with my Charger to begin with but those 2 heater holes I used them for all my routing of my sniper and that’s where I ran my AC harness so I didn’t think about it anymore and plus for me it was a cleaner look but just like I replied to Kern that’s what I’m going to try with the RR if I purchase it. Keeping it as stock looking as possible.

 

[Kern Dog]

Here are some mock up ideas.
This is the manifold as it will rest against the RH apron. I’m at the radiator facing the windshield.

The yellow capped fittings are for the heater. The hose and fitting kit had two fittings shaped like the bottom/nearest one but I wanted the lines to run parallel in width so I bought the top one yesterday.
Here we are with the #6 and #10 A/C fittings, also with 90 degree bends.

Here on the left is the wheel side of the apron with the fittings pointing rearward. This arrangement above assumes the manifold placement between the firewall and upper control arm mount.

Below, the straight fittings assume the manifold is right near the firewall.

Both may work, it just depends on what Dwayne wants. I’m not drilling holes until I know.

The fittings I have could be used as seen below for going through the firewall in the wheel well.

I’d just drill holes big enough to fit the threaded sections through and use fat washers to provide adequate backing.
The U shape would allow a straight shot to the evaporator for all the lines.
I had the U turn #6 fitting in my own stash:

It eliminates one fitting. (and one potential leak)

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Here are some mock up ideas.
This is the manifold as it will rest against the RH apron. I’m at the radiator facing the windshield.

View attachment 1597096

The yellow capped fittings are for the heater. The hose and fitting kit had two fittings shaped like the bottom/nearest one but I wanted the lines to run parallel in width so I bought the top one yesterday.
Here we are with the #6 and #10 A/C fittings, also with 90 degree bends.

View attachment 1597097

Here on the left is the wheel side of the apron with the fittings pointing rearward. This arrangement above assumes the manifold placement between the firewall and upper control arm mount.

Below, the straight fittings assume the manifold is right near the firewall.

View attachment 1597098

Both may work, it just depends on what Dwayne wants. I’m not drilling holes until I know.

The fittings I have could be used as seen below for going through the firewall in the wheel well.
View attachment 1597099

I’d just drill holes big enough to fit the threaded sections through and use fat washers to provide adequate backing.
The U shape would allow a straight shot to the evaporator for all the lines.
I had the U turn #6 fitting in my own stash:

View attachment 1597101

It eliminates one fitting. (and one potential leak)

If the way I'm reading the 2 choices is the underhood manifold is on the passenger fender apron, just that one is closer to the firewall, then I'm fine with either way - up to your discretion.

 

[Kern Dog]

If the way I'm reading the 2 choices is the underhood manifold is on the passenger fender apron, just that one is closer to the firewall, then I'm fine with either way - up to your discretion.

Do you guys see this?
It looks like I’ve been given creative license to make choices!

Here goes. The lines will go through the RH fender apron near the firewall.
Now the next issue: where do I put the water control valve?
The VA directions have this picture in the instructions:

They show it on the “exterior” and in this case, in the wheel well.
Why?
It has a few wires that connect to the evaporator unit inside. Why not install in near the firewall in the inside? That would be one less hole to drill, one less grommet. Is there a reason to put it out of the interior?

Maybe in case of failure, you don’t want a rupture and have anti freeze puking inside?
Another weird thing…
These guys use the same terminology as CAA where one heater hose goes to the intake and the other to the water pump.
These idiots never have seen a 383 or 440?
VA instructs to put the water valve in the line that runs from the intake and to the the bottom fitting on the “heater core”. They call this the pressure side.
CAA states to install their valve in the line to the water pump and to the upper port.
Both of these units look similar to me so why the opposing directions?
Why would you feed water to the bottom of the heater core? Radiators get the hot coolant from the top and it flows to the bottom.

 

[Kern Dog]

Vintage Air:

Classic Auto Air:

It makes sense to follow the instructions for the system you’re installing, I just wonder why they differ.
I think it makes the most sense to mount the valve in the wheel well.
I’ll just keep as close to the instructions as stated and if I encounter problems, at least I tried it their way.
I have these grommets to seal off at the penetrations.

 

[Kern Dog]

For the heater I'd look at a barbed bulkhead fitting like this.. No extra threaded fittings just barbs...
View attachment 1596732


Then a trip to the auto parts store with a request to look through their molded heater hoses...

http://[URL][URL]https://duckduckgo...e&atb=v365-1&t=chromentp&iax=images&ia=images

[/URL][/URL]

I'm sure something will work....

That would work.
Two hoses shaped like an L Like this one:

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Vintage Air:

View attachment 1598822

Classic Auto Air:

View attachment 1598823

It makes sense to follow the instructions for the system you’re installing, I just wonder why they differ.
I think it makes the most sense to mount the valve in the wheel well.
I’ll just keep as close to the instructions as stated and if I encounter problems, at least I tried it their way.
I have these grommets to seal off at the penetrations.

I'd like the water valve in the wheel well or engine compartment. I don't want any risk of future leaks in the interior cabin.