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Wagon tailpipe placement?

Secret Chimp

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Location
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I'm having trouble getting the dual exhaust on my 67 Coronet set up to eliminate (or reduce as much as possible) what gets drawn in from the rear end. I have replaced the tailgate gasket and the strip that is supposed to seal the bottom of the window, but the rear window whiskers are partially gone and I suspect it's a bit leaky otherwise.

I can drive it around in nice weather without issue but in cold weather it can be a problem depending on my average speed if I don't keep a cowl vent and/or wing window cracked.

When I bought it, it came with the exhaust set up with a partial turndown on either side that dumped pretty close to the body. I'm guessing the hanging location was close to the factory single exhaust routing (side-on photo) but I don't know for sure, this is the only Mopar I've ever owned.

A few years ago I changed the tailpipes to angle straight out from the side of the car and a couple inches away from the body. This helped a bit but I'm still not happy with it this time of year.

Obviously I can't bring the pipes much closer to the rear wheels like GM wagons did because of the leaf springs. Anyone else have a wagon with a relatively stinky/brain-cell-killy-proofed exhaust setup that is different from mine? I'm not sure if my only option is to focus on getting the tailgate as tight as possible.

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I really don't think that the exhaust on the wagon was any different than the exhaust on any of the Dodge B bodies in 67. I have NOS tailpipes on this 67 R/T. They are inboard of the rear bumper and about level with the bottom of the bumper.
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I'm in a similar boat with fumes sometimes. But I haven't replaced the rear seals yet either. Currently they dump under the bumper. In the future, I'm going to get the TTI header back package. They say side exit, blunt cut. Guessing they're behind the wheel.
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I have done two things on my Plymouth wagon: 1) I have side exit exhaust in front of the rear tires 2) I will run a combination of vent and warm air as appropriate to keep the interior pressurized.
 
My 70 9p wagon seals well so I don't get fumes inside the car when the rear gate glass is raised. I can run the car with the window open about 3-4 inches without fumes but anything beyond that and the front vent windows need to be opened. I do not have rear deflectors on my car. The single exhaust is stock appearing and exiting just behind the spare tire well ahead of the bumper
 
I was going to try 67 GTX tips, angled so that the diagonal slash was parallel with the bumper, but the pipes were aimed at the corners.
 
I ran dual exhaust on my 440-equipped '67 Coronet wagon, that exited to the sides. I never had any problem with exhaust fumes coming in the car, with the rear window closed. The wagon did not have the optional air deflectors.
 
I installed the full TTI wagon exhaust, but I disliked the way the tail pipes looked hanging down and out the sides, I was still getting exhaust in the cabin so I went with a coupe sedan style dual exhaust tips. If windows open no problem, but when cold I have floor vent open slightly to pressurize cabin and heat on. As soon as I open vent window just a bit it creates a vacuum in the cabin and will pull exhaust in, why it was good for smokers. My seals are cracked and dried up, but I can manage it. Cabin pressure makes all the difference.
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I like the deflectors. But don't like putting holes in a pristine roof. Eventually turn into a water entrance, then rust.
 
I think you guys with early 60s roundie wagons are benefiting from the gentler rear roof profile. The harder corners on my car are more apt to stall out the air and create low pressure at the rear. That being said, I'm surprised some of you have exits in the middle of the bumper with no problems. I'll have to make sure I don't have any leaks further ahead.

I've read in multiple places that some inspection jurisdictions in the middle/eastern parts of the country or Canada do not allow rear exits on wagons or similar-bodied trucks or SUVs due to the fume draw potential (or at least they did not allow back when emissions were worse across the board).

I'm not sure if I want to use those deflectors or not; they look cool on the older cars but I'm not sure if they'd look right to me on mine. I agree with not wanting to put holes in the sheet metal, though I doubt there is any kind of tape out there that could hold on to those things at 70 mph for very long. I had considered trying the kind that just goes straight along the top of the window, figuring maybe I could just mount it inside of the window channel.

In the meantime I'll stick with heat + a bit of cowl vent and NOT using the vent windows. I didn't realize those would counteract the pressure from the cowl vents. Fortunately I never had to suffer through riding with car smokers.
 
On wagons, the tail pipes come out the side rather than the back, so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked in through the tailgate window. I used Accurate Exhaust for mine. But just couldn't get it to fit right on either side (fit was worse on the drivers side). My buddy cut the pipes, welded in standard preformed elbows and then welded on exhaust tips to get the fit right. I usually drive with the tailgate window open in the summertime. I get zero exhaust fumes in the car.

By the way, Restoration Specialties has the rubber seal that attaches to the bottom of the tailgate glass and seals to the outside lip of the tailgate when the glass is up. They also make the channel rubber I used to seal the window around the body opening in the roof.

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My understanding is the deflectors kept dirt, dust, and water off the rear window, or at least minimized it.

Never heard they were to deflect exhaust gases.
 
On wagons, the tail pipes come out the side rather than the back, so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked in through the tailgate window. I used Accurate Exhaust for mine. But just couldn't get it to fit right on either side (fit was worse on the drivers side). My buddy cut the pipes, welded in standard preformed elbows and then welded on exhaust tips to get the fit right. I usually drive with the tailgate window open in the summertime. I get zero exhaust fumes in the car.

By the way, Restoration Specialties has the rubber seal that attaches to the bottom of the tailgate glass and seals to the outside lip of the tailgate when the glass is up. They also make the channel rubber I used to seal the window around the body opening in the roof.

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I have replaced both the bottom tailgate/body seal and the bottom glass seal via those folks. What did you order specifically for the channel rubber? I know they sell a bunch of different profiles in bulk but I couldn't tell what was appropriate. Some of mine is just completely gone.
 
I have replaced both the bottom tailgate/body seal and the bottom glass seal via those folks. What did you order specifically for the channel rubber? I know they sell a bunch of different profiles in bulk but I couldn't tell what was appropriate. Some of mine is just completely gone.
They sent me a couple different sample pieces of channel rubber. I chose one that fit nicely into the channel and ordered that. It's not the molded triangular shape that the factory had tucked way up into the recesses of the D-pillars, but it works just as well. Don't know the part number.

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