Try this test
:
Turn the key on, and hook your test lamp or meter from the coil low voltage terninals--one at a time--and the other test lead to ground.
You should get a light or voltage on one side or the other, maybe both if the points are open. (key on)
If you do not get power at the coil terminals, go up to the ceramic coil ballast resistor, and check both terminals of the resistor with your lamp.(key on) You should get power with the key on on both sides of the resistor. If you only have power on one side, the resistor is bad. If you don't have power on EITHER terminal, you have an ignition switch or wiring problem
If you DID get power at one or both coil terminals, here's next:
If you get power on BOTH sides of the coil, that means that the points are open or are not making contact.
Now put your test lamp on the dist. side of the coil, that is, the low voltage terminal on the coil which goes to the distributor
Bump the engine over--easiest way is to short the starter relay on the firewall--and see if the lamp blinks off and on as the engine cranks
If the lamp stays on when cranking, that means that the points are not closing. They could be corroded, not set correctly or the wire to the points may have a break in it.
If the lamp blinks when cranking
and still no spark, then you might have a bad condenser in the distributor, or the coil may be bad
(If you leave the key on for long periods, it can heat up the coil or resistor, and damage or fail them)
On the other hand, if you do this test, that is, lamp on the dist. side of the coil, and crank engine, and the lamp STAYS OUT when cranking, that means that the points are not opening, and probably need adjustment, or that the wiring in the distributor is shorting to ground.
I guess you know how to set the points? I did not used to set them with a feeler gauge, just a dwell meter. You probably want to set them with a feeler, 'till you get the hang of it. With the points on a high spot on the cam, adjust the points to the proper feeler setting.
