I think you mean this?
I kinda doubt it since the gauge was working before.
But who knows i will check that out and thanks for the tip!
Water temperature gauge stopped working
- Thread starter Michael_
- Start date
I think you mean this?
I kinda doubt it since the gauge was working before.
But who knows i will check that out and thanks for the tip!
.
LowBikeMike
Well-Known Member
Once you get the gauge cluster out I think you will have better access to the inside bulkhead connector. I've also got an AC car and you certainly can't get to it from the bottom. Looking from the glovebox the bulkhead appears to be above the AC box, so I doubt you will need to remove the AC box
Can somebody tell me if the result seen in the video is good or bad?
Measured with a multimeter at the temperature wire (the end of the sending unit).
Would help to decide how i exactly go on from here...
Anybody?
But i found a good thread and video on how to remove the gauge cluster:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-gauges-bezel-on-70-rr-with-rally-dash.53255/
Got a feeling this is the next thing i have to do.
I finally decided to pull the gauge cluster next week.
I got a few questions
1.What about OER gauges?
My clock and temp gauge is not working and if it turns out to be the gauges itself i think about whether replacing or rebuilding (which takes longer)
is the way to go. (Can you even rebuild a temp gauge?)
Anyway, are these OER gauges (especially internal) the same as stock or are the stock gauges different?
I wanted to buy a reproduction rallye pack for our oldsmobile but then got told the repro is not identical internal and wont
glow very bright at night. So i ended up buying a used original rallye pack.
Is this the case for the oer gauges too or are they really the same as buying NOS?
Also if i buy a oer gauge would it be possible to use the faceplate from the old gauge so it looks original?
Otherwise you would see the gauge is replaced because the others are faded and the new one would not be faded.
2.Would you replace the voltage limiter (if you already had the cluster out) as preventive maintenance?
2.1. Would you replace anything else as preventive maintenance while you have the gauge cluster out?
3.What is the easiest way to test the temp gauge with the cluster removed/out of the car?
I got a few questions
1.What about OER gauges?
My clock and temp gauge is not working and if it turns out to be the gauges itself i think about whether replacing or rebuilding (which takes longer)
is the way to go. (Can you even rebuild a temp gauge?)
Anyway, are these OER gauges (especially internal) the same as stock or are the stock gauges different?
I wanted to buy a reproduction rallye pack for our oldsmobile but then got told the repro is not identical internal and wont
glow very bright at night. So i ended up buying a used original rallye pack.
Is this the case for the oer gauges too or are they really the same as buying NOS?
Also if i buy a oer gauge would it be possible to use the faceplate from the old gauge so it looks original?
Otherwise you would see the gauge is replaced because the others are faded and the new one would not be faded.
2.Would you replace the voltage limiter (if you already had the cluster out) as preventive maintenance?
2.1. Would you replace anything else as preventive maintenance while you have the gauge cluster out?
3.What is the easiest way to test the temp gauge with the cluster removed/out of the car?
If you can reach up behind the cluster, wiggle the round harness connector while watching the gauge. The pins on the circuit board can corrode or crack and not make contact. If the fuel / coolant stop working, could be the instrument voltage reg mounted on the board.
They can be soldered to work. Also look for broken traces on the board.
I was busy and needed to delay this project.
So the car was basically sitting since my last post @ 13. August.
Today i started it up and the gauge is working just fine again. Did absolutely nothing to it.
So either the contact spray needed a little longer to do its job or i dont know.
If it goes out again im taking the cluster out because im 99% sure its inside the cabin (and no fuse).
On what would you put your money on?
I probably say wiring or gauge itself, with preference to the later one.
Its only the temperature gauge so i do not really think the voltage limiter or capacitor.
So the car was basically sitting since my last post @ 13. August.
Today i started it up and the gauge is working just fine again. Did absolutely nothing to it.
So either the contact spray needed a little longer to do its job or i dont know.
If it goes out again im taking the cluster out because im 99% sure its inside the cabin (and no fuse).
On what would you put your money on?
I probably say wiring or gauge itself, with preference to the later one.
Its only the temperature gauge so i do not really think the voltage limiter or capacitor.
Jerry Hall
Well-Known Member
Bulkhead connector?
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Post 24 - Depending on the impedance of the meter, that's a good reading. The cluster voltage limiter averages a 5V output, but depending on the ambient temp, it can be higher or lower with no ill affects, as long as it is a pulsed output, which you have.
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IMO....since you've gone to the trouble of removing the instrument panel, why not install a NEW, instrument panel voltage regulator by RT Engineering. Its completely solid state and provides an extremely accurate 5 volt output for the gauges. The origional IP voltage regulator is a thermal/mechanical device, known to cause gauge failures. In addition, consider replaceing the temperature sending unit, that provides the reference signal to the temperature gauge. This is a Negative temperature coefficient device....high resistance when cold, yielding a low temp reading. As the resistance decreases with temp increase, the gauge reads up scale. Remember the instrument panel gauge is nothing more than a 5 volt thermal device, calibrated to read temperature, fuel or oil pressure. They all work similarly. The gauges need a reliable 5 volt source to operate. It does not take much additional resistance, due to corrosion, at the bulkhead connections or device connections to cause the 5 volt signal to get lost. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
BOB RENTON
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