Well that was fun!!!

[project62]

So, we took our 1962 Plymouth Savoy on its maiden voyage tonight which lasted all of 2 minutes (Not kidding) and it died. No juice, car was completely dead. Towed it to the garage and found a blown fuse from the busbar to the battery. Replaced fuse, had juice again and then blew fuse before we even had chance to start it. So we removed that wire put one on without the fuse. Now it cranks over but will not start. Hmmmm

 

[Fran Blacker]

Hope you left the battery cable off. Blown fuse is either an overload or a short. I'd find out why.

 

[threewood]

Something shorted to ground. Don't run it like that or bad things will happen!

 

[project62]

Yes we unhooked the battery. Ground wire for battery is grounded to trunk floor, since we have it in the trunk. I did notice that my son did not clean off the undercoating under the car where it is grounded. Would that cause a faulty ground? Do we need to put some sort of insulator under the busbar? Why the inline fuse from from busbar to positive side of battery and no other fuses blew? (Not using factory harness).

 

[eric383]

When I run a trunk mounted battery I run the negative lead to the engine. If you run it to the sheet metal the current has to flow through the body then make it's way to the engine to power the starter. Also make sure you have a ground strap from the engine to the firewall. Clean connections go long way in providing power.

 

[project62]

When I run a trunk mounted battery I run the negative lead to the engine. If you run it to the sheet metal the current has to flow through the body then make it's way to the engine to power the starter. Also make sure you have a ground strap from the engine to the firewall. Clean connections go long way in providing power.

Interesting. Thanks I will tell my son.

 

[project62]

Ok. Battery grounded to engine. Does the ground strap have to be mounted to firewall or can I mount it where ever.

 

[threewood]

Ok. Battery grounded to engine. Does the ground strap have to be mounted to firewall or can I mount it where ever.

Anywhere will do. The factory placed the ground strap from the pass side bell housing bolt to the firewall close to the ballast resistor. Use a star nut or scrape away the paint.

 

[project62]

Almost there.

 

[miller]

Ground wire for battery is grounded to trunk floor, since we have it in the trunk.

I suppose a ground cable would be okay at the trunk floor, or consider going 'through' the floor, via a good insulator, to the rear frame itself. Point is, a good battery ground is a must.
As far as I know, completing that ground circuit, the ground strap, engine to firewall, is also needed, and mounts from the rear bolt hole, on the passenger side head, to the firewall. (Look at the intake side of the head.)

If the positive battery cable gets shorted to ground...it can, and will, burn EVERY wire in the car, if it doesn't catch fire!!! Ask me how I know...at 65 on the highway.

Just saying.

 

[Shorthorse]

Yes we unhooked the battery. Ground wire for battery is grounded to trunk floor, since we have it in the trunk. I did notice that my son did not clean off the undercoating under the car where it is grounded. Would that cause a faulty ground? Do we need to put some sort of insulator under the busbar? Why the inline fuse from from busbar to positive side of battery and no other fuses blew? (Not using factory harness).

Yes you must insulate the + buss from the body.
Here's a trick. Remove the negative cable from the battery, attach the positive cable to the battery. Take a volt/ohm meter and set it to DC volts. Put the negative meter lead on the negative battery post and put the positive meter lead to the frame. If you read voltage, you've got a positive short to the frame.

 

[project62]

Now what. Engine will not turn over. Had battery hooked up key turned over and as we were checking things out the coil(pertronics flame thrower 2) was very warm and then smoke started to come from under the distributor cap which is also a pertronics.

 

[Shorthorse]

You've got to find that electrical issue before you try using anything electrical. Otherwise, like Miller was pointing out, you're going to end up with a pile of ashes. I suspect your distributor and coil are now toast.
That fused buss bar you mentioned is the first place to start. If you disconnect the battery and all the output wires, does the buss have continuity to ground?

 

[miller]

Just as Shorthorse says, to begin checking things. Do NOT hook the battery up, until you know for sure, all your connections are right!!!
I'm sure your already aware, the entire body/frame is considered 'ground', once properly wired. That's the easy part, if wired right. Yes, your probably looking at burned components now, and will need to, one by one, check them.

That 'fuse' probably 'saved your bacon', so to speak, and a good idea...if wired right. Your main concern is your positive battery cable, it's route, and NO contact with ground.

Believe me...it's no fun...watching every wire on the car burn, like a fuse. That's what happened on my 63, because my positive wore through to a ground. Pretty sure your's is already there.

Be careful! And, good luck!

 

[project62]

Just as Shorthorse says, to begin checking things. Do NOT hook the battery up, until you know for sure, all your connections are right!!!
I'm sure your already aware, the entire body/frame is considered 'ground', once properly wired. That's the easy part, if wired right. Yes, your probably looking at burned components now, and will need to, one by one, check them.

That 'fuse' probably 'saved your bacon', so to speak, and a good idea...if wired right. Your main concern is your positive battery cable, it's route, and NO contact with ground.

Believe me...it's no fun...watching every wire on the car burn, like a fuse. That's what happened on my 63, because my positive wore through to a ground. Pretty sure your's is already there.

Be careful! And, good luck!

I guess my question would be, if the thing in the distributor(Not the rotor) that has the wires coming from it to the coil, can that be replaced without having to buy a whole new distributor? Already figured we need a new coil. And what can we put under the buss bar so I don't have a positive ground. It's mounted in trunk next to battery. And thank you everyone for your help. Hope to have it running by end of the month. Would like to take it to monster mopar weekend in Norwalk.

 

[miller]

And what can we put under the buss bar so I don't have a positive ground.

Easy stuff first. Yes, positively need the buss bar insulated from ground. Plastic, hard rubber, or the like, to keep it off ground. And, how it's fastened on (if it is) also must be completely isolated, from contacting ground. No screws, bolts, or nuts, touching ground.

On your distributor, some of the other guys will have to chime in. (I don't use electronic.) Will say, yes, it 'could' be cooked, but don't know if you can just replace parts in it...or, toss it. I'll let others say...

 

[project62]

Easy stuff first. Yes, positively need the buss bar insulated from ground. Plastic, hard rubber, or the like, to keep it off ground. And, how it's fastened on (if it is) also must be completely isolated, from contacting ground. No screws, bolts, or nuts, touching ground.

On your distributor, some of the other guys will have to chime in. (I don't use electronic.) Will say, yes, it 'could' be cooked, but don't know if you can just replace parts in it...or, toss it. I'll let others say...

Bus bar is made if plastic kinda like a fuse box and it has holes molded in the plastic to be held down by screws. If I can find a picture of the one I purchased I will post it on here. Looked on summit racing and I can get a new ignition module. But for their asking price might as well buy whole new distributor.

 

[project62]

This what it looks like.

 

[miller]

Understand. Can only say, once you mount it, to the trunk floor, or wherever, use an ohmmeter, to check it. All depends on it's design. If you get any contact from either cable lug, to one of the mounting screws...you've got ground. Don't want that.

And, yeah...that's exactly why I don't use electronic ignition. Too many throw away parts.

 

[Shorthorse]

This what it looks like.

View attachment 445524

OK, now I see what you are talking about. I thought you were talking about a buss bar like the style electricians use. That's a fuse block and should already be insulated by virtue of its construction. That is unless it's damaged or flawed. That particular block itself is not fused to main power so the fuse you mentioned earlier that blew was powering something. The question is, what was that particular fuse powering? That's where you want to start looking.