Vrenlos
Active Member
Turns out it was the embarrassing (but best case) scenario - the gallon of gas I put in wasn't enough to get everything primed/running. 5gal did it!
66 Charger progress
- Thread starter Vrenlos
- Start date
So does the fuel gauge not work or is inaccurate? Sounds like you thought you were out of gas. It kind of looks like the twin of mine.
To save yourself future grief, I would recommend that you replace the fuel pump push rod. If its original, it may be worn to the point where there is barely enough stroke of the arm of the fuel pump to reliably deliver gas to the carb. When I first got my 66 I had all kind of fuel issues that had all appearances of vapor lock. Would start and run fine and stall for no good reason while driving. The push rod was worn just over 3/8 " shorter than it should be. That was with 87 K actual miles on the car. New rod is about $30 and easy to replace. Also consider a new tank and fuel lines and filter. I had tons of crud and residue my tank.
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Vrenlos
Active Member
Fuel gauge is currently out of commission. I dumped a few gallons in and didn't realize I must have blown through it while setting my idle mixture and topping off/burping the coolant.
I plan on doing a new tank and likely an electric pump for an efi system in the not too distant future.
I plan on doing a new tank and likely an electric pump for an efi system in the not too distant future.
If you changed the points and condenser out recently check the condenser. I get a 50% fail rate with the new ones when tested under heat.
gibber
Well-Known Member
Your gauges look nice, from the color of the pointers looks like a JC Auto rebuild. As for the points style limiter inside your fuel gauge, over time the points start sticking and instead of the 5V ref voltage you need for fuel, oil press, and temp (thermal gauges), you get 7, 8, 9 etc. Starts to burn the insulated nichrome wire off of the bi-metal strip inside your thermal gauges. First they lose calibration, bad enough they fail entirely. About 80 percent of the 66/67 Charger gauge restos I do have burned up thermals. To install a RTE IVR 3 limiter on the back of the cluster, you'll need to disable the points inside your fuel gauge. Pretty positive JC Auto already did that. They have probably installed an external limiter as well, but they use an old style points type. That needs to go....replace it with the IVR-3...
As for your tach, can be one of three things:
Bad external tach sending board (RTE sells the correct tach board, tho it needs to be calibrated to your tach)
Tach binding on the bottom pivot from dirt after 50 plus years
One or more electrical components on the tach itself has failed
To test the tach (if its not bound up), can use a 1.5V D Cell battery, connect the positive side to the copper post (one with the tab), negative to the silver post. Should read 2000 RPM plus minus 200 or so...
My website has more info. Feel free to contact me if you have questions...always glad to help...
Mark
As for your tach, can be one of three things:
Bad external tach sending board (RTE sells the correct tach board, tho it needs to be calibrated to your tach)
Tach binding on the bottom pivot from dirt after 50 plus years
One or more electrical components on the tach itself has failed
To test the tach (if its not bound up), can use a 1.5V D Cell battery, connect the positive side to the copper post (one with the tab), negative to the silver post. Should read 2000 RPM plus minus 200 or so...
My website has more info. Feel free to contact me if you have questions...always glad to help...
Mark
Vrenlos
Active Member
Wow, good eye! Indeed when I pulled the tach unit out of the glove box it had a "JC" on the back of it and I wasn't sure what it was! I've been working mainly on mechanical items for the past week or so, but will likely move back to electronics soon. I greatly appreciate the help and massive amount of knowledge. I have noticed now that the fuel tank is full I do get a reading up to about half on the gauge - I had only been putting in ~5 gallons at a time so I suppose I never overcame the minimum it needed. I'll definitely look into the IVR-3!
Thanks again, and I'll let you know how it goes!
If your car is a big block, 383-440 engine, I would suggest that your problem may be the fuel pump push rod. If its the original it's probably worn and because of that, it's just barely stroking the lever of the fuel pumps arm. When I got my 66 some 8 years ago, it had 87 K miles on it. Had fuel delivery problems.. Took a lot of cranking to get started, would run OK and continued to run fine for a few miles and then would just die randomly. Like out of gas or vapor lock. Drove me crazy.. Thought it was ignition problem, not. Clogged fuel filter, not. Bad fuel pump, not. Searched around on internet and read a thread on a forum mentioning this worn push rod issue. Sure enough, pulled my pump to access it and it was worn down by 3/8 inch. Easy to replace, about $35 cost. Has run perfectly ever since..
gibber
Well-Known Member
Had the same problem with a 66 I purchased several years ago to restore for my wife. PO had just installed an electric fuel pump which looked like crap in the engine bay and ran funny. I found out the same info about the fuel pump push rod. Was worn about the same amount. New mechanical pump and new push rod and goodbye electric pump and rube goldberg wiring lol. Car ran perfectly after that.
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