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What’s my coolant trying to tell me ?

You know the old mopars dont like above 170.
I sure hope you're joking!!! Mine came stock w 180°, even has the sticker saying 180° only. These are completely open at 195° and in hot environments w a/c running while in stop n go, run about 196-215. That is completely normal for "the old Mopars".
 
I sure hope you're joking!!! Mine came stock w 180°, even has the sticker saying 180° only. These are completely open at 195° and in hot environments w a/c running while in stop n go, run about 196-215. That is completely normal for "the old Mopars".
Think why they make a 160?
 
Are you just wigged out about the hissing noise? First thing I thought about is the cap or a small leak above the coolant level (which should be a inch or so below the top of the filler neck) A 15# pressure cap will raise the boiling point from around 212° to about 257°. If you have a bad cap or a leak the pressure will bleed off and boiling comes back to around 212°. With a well sealed system it will have pressure for many hours after the engine is shut off. Like Diesel_lv said, get a pressure tester and test the cap and system. That's the first thing to do.
I leave the inch for expansion. My concern is the hissing noise and the sound of pressure build up almost like the coolants dancing after turning it off my other mopar doesn’t do that 383 no prob
 
Are you just wigged out about the hissing noise? First thing I thought about is the cap or a small leak above the coolant level (which should be a inch or so below the top of the filler neck) A 15# pressure cap will raise the boiling point from around 212° to about 257°. If you have a bad cap or a leak the pressure will bleed off and boiling comes back to around 212°. With a well sealed system it will have pressure for many hours after the engine is shut off. Like Diesel_lv said, get a pressure tester and test the cap and system. That's the first thing to do.
I’m gonna start with pressure testing
 
You know the old mopars dont like above 170.
Used to run a 190 in my 71 340 Cuda just to get quicker heat in the winter time.....and would change to a 180 in the summer time but got tired of doing that and just left the 180 in it. It did just fine.

Think why they make a 160?
The 160 is for Ford small blocks which ran better with that than a 180. Don't know about the other Ford stuff but all of my Mopars ran slower with the 160 T-stats plus oil is 'angerneered' for 180 temps :D
 
Used to run a 190 in my 71 340 Cuda just to get quicker heat in the winter time.....and would change to a 180 in the summer time but got tired of doing that and just left the 180 in it. It did just fine.

The 160 is for Ford small blocks which ran better with that than a 180. Don't know about the other Ford stuff but all of my Mopars ran slower with the 160 T-stats plus oil is 'angerneered' for 180 temps :D
You know oil likes a good temp if that's a variable the 440 loves 160 water wise .
 
Used to run a 190 in my 71 340 Cuda just to get quicker heat in the winter time.....and would change to a 180 in the summer time but got tired of doing that and just left the 180 in it. It did just fine.

The 160 is for Ford small blocks which ran better with that than a 180. Don't know about the other Ford stuff but all of my Mopars ran slower with the 160 T-stats plus oil is 'angerneered' for 180 temps :D
Its all splitting hairs for fun.
 
You know oil likes a good temp if that's a variable the 440 loves 160 water wise .
Sorry, never saw any improvement in ET's running an RB engine at 160 or any other Mopar for that matter. All of mind did better at 180.....plus the oil changes looked better running 180 stats too.
 
Think why they make a 160?
A 160 will fully open at 175 and if all other things in the cooling system are equal, engine size, hp, transmission, ambient air temp etc, will stabilize at the same temp as a 180. A 160 was never run factory on a Mopar. It is an aftermarket rating marketed to the internet/shade tree "Phd's". People noticed their engine reved quicker, felt snappier when it was 1st started/cold. This wasn't due to the engine being cold, but to the cooler/denser air. As the engine warmed up, so did the air intake and the air wasn't as dense. But those Phd's thought it was the cold engine.
 
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A 160 will fully open at 175 and if all other things in the cooling system are equal, engine size, hp, transmission, ambient air temp etc, will stabilize at the same temp as a 180. A 160 was never run factory on a Mopar. It is an aftermarket rating marketed to the internet/shade tree "Phd's". People noticed their engine reved quicker, felt snappier when it was 1st started/cold. This wasn't due to the engine being cold, but to the cooler/denser air. As the engine warmed up, so did the air intake and the air wasn't as dense. But those Phd's thought it was the cold engine.
Sorry, never saw any improvement in ET's running an RB engine at 160 or any other Mopar for that matter. All of mind did better at 180.....plus the oil changes looked better running 180 stats too.
Perfection is a key 30 weight oil a kinda warm motor and a tuned carb.
 
Sorry, never saw any improvement in ET's running an RB engine at 160 or any other Mopar for that matter. All of mind did better at 180.....plus the oil changes looked better running 180 stats too.
Does the temp really matter in a warm climate?
 
It would be beneficial to get a shroud put on. Also, what style of t-stat do you use? The best one to use is the Robert Shaw style unit, brass, which flows more coolant than the Stant stainless one. The brass style is what came on the motor homes. Try the Milodon 16406 or equivalent.
 
@Purepony , keep us updated. My money is on the cap n fill level. :)
Filled up coolant with the gap and drove the car. Didn’t hear anything out of the ordinary
Still want to do a pressure test when I get full use of my back
 
Filled up coolant with the gap and drove the car. Didn’t hear anything out of the ordinary
Still want to do a pressure test when I get full use of my back
You know dont know where you are these motors start and run at low temps up north tell you what brother hotter climate is worse.
 
Filled up coolant with the gap and drove the car. Didn’t hear anything out of the ordinary
Still want to do a pressure test when I get full use of my back
Trick is have fun and keep kickin ***.
 
Another trick I learned for getting air out of the system, have the nose high on the car.
 
I'd chime in, a hissy fit motor, hearing the coolant boiling after shutting it off, can be a sign of running too hot. What's the dash temp gauge indicating? As was posted, get a thermometer and check the temp at the t-stat and radiator. The stat itself could be an issue...just sayin...
 
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