What do you think it will run?

[TetanusShot]

The last test and tune day for Muncie dragaway is tomorrow and I plan on making some passes.

Specs: '70 RR, Hemi, TF, 3.23 sg. F60-15 Poly GT's, gutted interior.

I don't know what the engine makes. I hope its between 450 and 550. Its a 528" but pretty stock otherwise, exhaust manifold's and all. Unported '70 steel heads. The cam is a tiny comp solid FT. Just 270 advertised & 235 @.050

Non power steering and brakes, electric fans. The exhaust is 2.5" for about a foot out of the manifolds before it adapts into 3" full out to the bumper. Oh yeah, the converter is out of a motorhome and has to have the lowest stall speed in the world!

Whats it gonna run? spinning 14? wheezing 13? 12? better/worse?

 

[moparnation74]

12-13 depending on the driver.........

 

[condor74]

If you can get it to hook it would expect mid 13s to high 12s. Why run the polyglass tires? Electric fans, 3 inch exhaust, 528 ci. Definitely not stock.

Good set of drag tires and Gears would have you low 12s knocking on door of 11s I would think.

 

[66Satellite47]

If you have power you think, you will tear the tires off the car.

 

[super-bee_ski]

I'll bet 13.89

 

[TetanusShot]

If you can get it to hook it would expect mid 13s to high 12s. Why run the polyglass tires? Electric fans, 3 inch exhaust, 528 ci. Definitely not stock.

Good set of drag tires and Gears would have you low 12s knocking on door of 11s I would think.

I like the stock appearing look. The electric fans were a concession because I couldn't keep it cool. I went three inch exhaust in case of headers in the future.

I do have a set of slicks and a 4.57sg in the garage, but I have to drive the car to the track so they're a no go...

 

[condor74]

slicks should fit in the trunk. Either way should be fun. I took my 68 Satellite to the track with a mostly stock 383 save for headers, holly street dominator intake and 3.91 gears and 3000 stall converter and wider than stock radial tires. I had a few issues but ran 13.99. I was having valve float issues and couldn't launch consistently.

 

[mmissile]

slicks should fit in the trunk. Either way should be fun. I took my 68 Satellite to the track with a mostly stock 383 save for headers, holly street dominator intake and 3.91 gears and 3000 stall converter and wider than stock radial tires. I had a few issues but ran 13.99. I was having valve float issues and couldn't launch consistently.

Am I understanding you had valve-float at 3K rpm's...your launch RPM?? YIKES!

 

[condor74]

Am I understanding you had valve-float at 3K rpm's...your launch RPM?? YIKES!

No I had valve float at 5500 rpm. it launched hard then floated as I topped out in first abd second. It would nose over and oil pressure would drop. This was all on an original 1968 383 2bbl no rebuild. I eventually swapped to much more aggressive cam and valve springs. The motor then would pull clean over 6500 rpm. Unfortunately it did eventually expire but that is for another thread.

 

[condor74]

The launch consistently remark was lack of traction. The valve float was separate issue. I didn't mean to thread jack. I was just thinking the poly glass tires would be the biggest issue for good et.

On the other hand check out some of F.A.S.T racers. Factory appearing stock tire class. Those guys are running into the 10s on polyglass tires.

 

[TetanusShot]

I've seen a couple F.A.S.T. races. That was the main influence in making the car "stock" appearing. What those guys can do is unreal! I'm just some dude taking his daily driver to the strip.

 

[Budnicks]

More details on the build, iron manifolds on a big engine {won't breath} &
high gears, especially hard compound street tires will hurt it...

disclaimer;
Please don't take anything I say personally, it's not meant to be insulting...

Are you an experienced racer ?, have you been to the track lately ?
all pertinent questions...

Anyway;
I'll wild *** guess 13.20's in the 1320...LOL "if it ever hooks",
or if it doesn't spin all the way thru 2nd gear,
stock iron heads are a choke point too, big engines need to breath,
but the more power the more it'll probably spin too...
MPH could be anywhere 100+, depending on mid track traction
generally a car with street tire especially "rocks like them Polyglass's"
won't ET very well, but will MPH OK, If your making 450+ it'll be 110+
that's if it ever hooks in high gear & the camshaft {stock-ish ?} or
valve springs, carb & ignition timing etc. are all tuned correctly...

you can use your MPH to determine a "what if " scenario
if it hooked or if it launched well or if it revved well, above 5500rpm
if it didn't fall off because of bad ignition timing or carb tune,
if it doesn't lean surge or if it's NOT starving for air etc.

a lot more to a good ET/Run than a big engine
"if" you can get the car to work & transfer weight & not broil the tires,
maybe really hi 12's, but 1st time out & mixed match combo, I doubt it...

your MPH will give you a decent idea of the future capabilities,
MPH basically will tell you HP, to an extent

Good ET is the car working well, with "all" the equipped combo working together,
"all" the suspension, shocks, converter, tire, camshaft, carb, heads, ignition, exhaust etc. etc. etc.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
disclaimer;
Those F.A.S.T. guys are "far from stock, only appearing to be",
lots of fine tuning, specific parts to work together not just parts bin builds,
lots of $$$ spent where you can't see it...
Their stock manifolds are highly ported, so are the heads, big valves,
special dual pattern camshafts & big cubic inch, F.A.S.T. specific combos,
Tread compounds on the tire isn't the same as off the shelf either...
They have a bunch of money spent you can't see, to make the combo work...
A ton of experimentation & tuning, seat of the pants & track time etc....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don't get too discouraged if it doesn't run all that well,
from your description it's not set up to run a good ET...

Good luck & Have Fun, that's what it's all about anyway...

 

[TetanusShot]

Oh, no offense taken! I'm not expecting any miracles, and appreciate the input. Only been to the strip about 4 times with different cars (notice I posted this in general discussion rather than Racer's Hangout).

If I don't hurt the motor and the transmission doesn't explode, the trip is a success in my book!

As far as more details on the build, we tuned the carbs with and o2 bunged into a headpipe, ignition is still points, static compression is 10:1, the transmission is a mix of a motorhome 727 case and guts with a car 727 tailshaft and housing. Honestly I'm most worried about the transmission.

I won't have computer access again until Monday so I'll post some results then.

 

[TetanusShot]

Brevity's not my strong suit, scroll down for just the times.

Thursday was busy. I took the day off, and spent the morning prepping the car. I lashed valves and swapped valve covers + new gaskets only to have them leak on start up. My brother installed a quieter set of mufflers so we could hear ourselves on the trip down. The front carb was way too rich at WOT, so we attempted some jet and rod changes but never got a handle on it before leaving.

Muncie was packed since it was the final T&T of the year. We met up with a buddy that had a stock '06 Charger Daytona. It was his first time at a strip and luckily we were paired up in staging. We ended up at the front of the line waiting while other classes ran. When it was finally our turn, my car was dead cold and that tight motorhome converter turned into my worst enemy.

When the lights went down, I launched and the car fell flat on its face! I swear it stumbled for almost two seconds before taking off and the 60' time was almost three. The car was cutting out at the top of 3rd gear, but still drove around the charger.

13.84 @ 107 (good call, Ski)

Before pass number two I ripped the front accel pump rod off, and fortunately the car launched better. Unfortunately the engine cut out badly again, this time at the top of second and third gear.

13.56 @ 104

Wish we could have made a clean pass, but the place was so busy there wasn't any time left. We had fun, but looks like there are some fuel and ignition problems to hunt down.

 

[66Satellite47]

Looks pretty darn impressive. Your traction/driving must have been much better than I would have guessed. I think anyone will tell you the Hemi will need a fair amount of carb tuning effort. 107 seems really good to me. A good 10" converter will really bring it to life & still stay very streetable. Keep in mind it takes lots of runs at the track to get things sorted out. Very good start.

 

[TetanusShot]

Thanks for the encouragement. Wish there was more time this year to get some laps in. I'd like to fix the problems it has and see what it can really do before swapping parts/upgrading. A better converter is high on the to-do list though.

 

[TetanusShot]

Update, a failing capacitor in the points distributor was causing a mis-fire and hurting performance. I made it back to Muncie early this year and ran one complete pass:

13.17 @ 105

The changes were a new capacitor, and changing the linkage to 1:1.

Discovered it was just plain running the bowls dry. By the top of second, it was bucking and surging badly and I abandoned the second pass.

Since that trip, I've converted to electronic ignition using a kit Mancini sells, swapped in TTI headers last night, and pitched the manifolds in the dumpster (just kidding). Next I plan to change my fuel system from 5/16 to 3/8 supplemented with a Holley blue pump and regulator. Then its back to Muncie to test again!

 

[66Satellite47]

My Satellite was built as a street car. The 3/8" fuel line & Carter electric pump limited the RPM to about 5000. Didn't pull at all above that. !/2" aluminum line with my old Mallory 140 pump allowed the motor to pull to over 6300 RPM & got the car over 121 MPH at the track.

 

[TetanusShot]

Update #3

Changed to 3/8 line and tested again with the mechanical pump = no change

Added a Holley Blue pump and regulator = a new best

12.84 @ 110mph

But...

Just like 66Satellite47 described above, it wouldn't pull much beyond 5000rpm

Gonna have to test to see if its still fuel related or if my orange box can't keep up...I'll have it sorted out one of these days.

 

[66Satellite47]

Orange box is not a real high rpm component, generally 5500 RPM, Blue box, Chrome box are "race" type. The Blue Holley pump was generally used as a duplex (2 blue pumps) configuration in the 70's & 80's, mainly due to reliability issues, pretty good output when new. In my race stuff, never used a mechanical pump, suction is a major limiting factor on pump output. Really good electric pump & regulator are needed for top level performance.