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what happened to my paint job???

i had the same problem with a maaco shop here in phoenix, az. which is now closed, with my s-10 extreme i wanted it painted LG6V which is the new beetle green(cyber matrix green gold pearl) they painted everything correct but the tailgate and rollpan where darker and they said it was cuz of the angle and the lighting that made it look that way.. B.S. on that i have been painting cars for some time and that ain't cutting it with me so i took it to a few high class paint shops and they told me that it the tailgate/rollpan where not the same shade as the rest of the truck and insist on getting it correct. i even took pix and sent it to the main office back east and they told me that they are sticking by their employees/managers/shop but if i still feel that it is not right that they would redo it again but it will cost me again. and i even had a 5 year warrenty on their paint job and they did not honor it after the 1st 6 months. so basically i got screwed. never will go to maaco again.. i went to my buddys shop and he got it corrected for me and came 100x better than maaco it is too bad that he had a heart attack in the office and passed away a few years ago... RIP ALFREDO..
 
I am not complaining about the cost I would have paid 40K , its I just wanted what I asked for and didn't get it !! And it's all they do is resto....no collision at all!

The comment on the cost was in no way directed towards you! I agree with you 100%.In reality their is always going to be an issue of some sort on a job of that size.Like I said A shops quality is not just measured in the quality of the job,but the service before,during,and after the job.The shops opinion doesn't matter,the man who is paying the bill has the final say.If they don't take care of the issue bash away,just make sure you are in the right.No need for careless bashing,sometimes our tempers sway our decision making!!!
 
Did they disassemble and reassemble the car for that cost? Was $30k just in body and paint, or was there mechanical work as well?
 
To be honest it sounds like some material shrinkage.It may be shrinkage in the filler,2k primers,or all the above.This tends to occur in the baking process or when work is rushed.This happens to the best of us.When doing large jobs at this level they should set for a for a few weeks before your final sand.This allows for any off gassing and shrinkage to happen which can be sanded out later.When dealing with many chemicals and human error things happen period.In saying this they should stand behind there work,if not bash away.A shops measure in quality is not just in the job,but in the overall service.This means service before,during,and after the job.

I will respond to a couple of comments about cost and restoration work compaired to insurance work.Restoration work is very time and material consuming.I don't know anyone that works for free by choice.Restoration work also consumes three times the shop area as an average insurance repair.
Time is money,materials cost money,shop space(heat,electric,cleaning),and paint booth up keep/cost.If you have never done a high end restoration or build you will never grasp the amount of time it takes to do a high end build...I am very surprised that any shop touches restoration work anymore do to the high cost of materials.Profit on insurance work has been chopped to a minimum.Profit on resto work was marginal period and is next to nothing now.All the DIY guys take a pen and write down all your time,electric,gas,materials,equipment,space,and add 15%for things forgotten.Now take and put a dollar value next to it,add it up.Now figure the majority of DIY builds are driver quality,so add 100% cost increase on top of it to reach a high end build.People tend to pass judgement based apon ignorance.Look at the facts,time and skill cost money!!!!!!!

Couldn't agree more, now add to your formula above 5-6 restorations somewhere in between show and concourse level.. taking place in the same shop .. its chaos on its best day. I know in our shop it is , some jobs do get rushed and that's when mistakes happen . Regardless , if you're not reasonably happy, the shop needs to address and resolve the issues regarding your paint ..
 
I am not complaining about the cost I would have paid 40K , its I just wanted what I asked for and didn't get it !! And it's all they do is resto....no collision at all![/QUOTE]



If that is the case there is absolutely no excuse for that kind of quality.
 
well guys I got 3 different opinions from other resto shops and they all said the same ...not enough prep!!! block sanding wasn't done right etc...So I went today to have the final "chat" with the body shop and he said it's the best bthey can do and" no one will notice once it's together"what the hell ???so he said he would help me with good prices on parts for the rest of the assembly...he will not help me with$$$ or pay another shop to do it right!
so what do I do now??? I am open to suggestions!!

someone asked about the work...it was given to them stripped to bare steell , and gutted , they only had to drop K frame and rear end
 
well guys I got 3 different opinions from other resto shops and they all said the same ...not enough prep!!! block sanding wasn't done right etc...So I went today to have the final "chat" with the body shop and he said it's the best bthey can do and" no one will notice once it's together"what the hell ???so he said he would help me with good prices on parts for the rest of the assembly...he will not help me with$$$ or pay another shop to do it right!
so what do I do now??? I am open to suggestions!!

someone asked about the work...it was given to them stripped to bare steell , and gutted , they only had to drop K frame and rear end

You've given them the chance to fix it, they've basically told you its beyond their capability ... next move is legal action ( expensive, long and drawn out) or driving the car as is ( which would perturb me to no end ) or pull the car as is from the shop and find a shop that has the capability and s decent rep in the community ... problem with pulling the car is, if its disassembled, the chances of you getting all your parts back are slim to none ... another point is, no amount of trim, or vinyl top or any add on is going "hide" piss poor body work, in fact its going to make it worse. Take a perfectly straight piece of stainless trim, mount it on a "wavy" body panel, well you do the math . Sorry for your troubles, but we get cars like this all the time . It's a shame these places stay in business ... another thing you can do is get another shop to look at it ( you may have to pay the individual ) right in the shop its in now , granted it will create a certain amount of hate and discontent , but it will also show the person who did the work initially you're not playing around ...
 
I am trying to post pics for the rest of you guys to see , but i think i have to resize??
 
My buddy just finished with a battle for some crappy work done. After a year of going through arbitration and such the guy who did the work was found in the wrong. Well he turned around and said he's contesting the decision so then my buddy was forced to get a lawyer involved. Unfortunatly to battle it would cost him the same amount that it would be to just pay someone else to redo the job. Even if he wins in court he has to try and get the money out of them using the judgement, but if they don't comply that piece of paper isn't worth much. THERE IS NO JUSTICE IN THIS!! Irritates me to no end (and him for that matter). He already has 2 other judgements in his hand from other court cases where he was done wrong but they are almost worthless too.
I hope for your sake that it get worked out to your satisfaction and that you get your car done to your satisfaction also. Good luck!
 
Wow, this is a very depressing thread. It sad a body shop can get away doing that kind of work and get away with it.
 
I'm just generalizing, directing it towards no one.

Just my three rules that I go by, and I do both collision (8-5) and resoration (5-??).

1. Always find a shop with a good reputation (ok, that's a giving)
2. Never bring a restoration job to a collision shop
3. Never bring collision work to a restoration shop
 
500 dodge, I had a good shop hose up a paint job on a 66 chevy for me once. I wasn't set up to do my own work at the time so I was forced to hire a shop to do the body and paint work for me.

I brought the car to that shop straighter than it was when they gave it back to me.

I went nuts, I was a young US Marine at the time and a bit of a fireball besides... the owner of the shop and I had a discussion about the new wavy look of my prized 66. He tried giving me the brush off like you are getting. I drug him over to his own son's 65 chevy in the parking lot of their shop. "see that? that's F-ing straight! that's the same body style as my 66, you guys did good on your boy's car and you totally F-k'ed my car up!"

I told him if he was proud of the work they did then I was going to make a nice big sign to display with my car at all the local car shows advertising for his body shop. That way everybody could see for themselves what they were capable of.

That did the trick. The car went back into the shop, out came the hand sanding blocks and a week later I had the car back they way it was supposed to be.



Your car might have enough material on it now to be correctly blocked out by hand, sealed and re-shot in color and clear.
 
well I just want to say THANK_YOU to all who is reading this thread and thanks for the support! Just to give and update , after several more conversations with the owner it was left that too bad you are on your own , I will help out with parts ....UNTIL I got a call and it was him saying, that it was not sitting well with him either!!so he told me to get it rolling (do not put any trim on) and bring it back and we will figure this out and make it right!! Needless to say I was very happy with the phone call, Maybe there is a santa after all!! So I will keep everybody posted and I will get pics up soon!!!
Merry x-mas and a Very Happy New Year!!!
 
I would surely hope he makes it right. I spent $30,000 on paint and body, it better curl my toes if you get my drift.
Any lawyer fresh out of school would have won that case for you!

Seems like they didn't use a guide coat ,correct sanding block,or got rushed.
Bad part is they have to sand it down past the primer coat to get it right. So I wouldn't expect it back for awhile.

Good god, what a night mare.

You might drop in prior to repaint with a friend who'll inspect their work prior to the spraying. If not, you'll get a rush job and be back to where your at now,
 
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That's good news 500.

They really should have enough material on that car to just start blocking, granted base/clear is an expensive way to surface build for blocking but it'll work.

That's what I'd do anyways, take the blocks to it the way it sits and if I unearthed bare metal here and there before cutting things level with the low spots I'd shoot something like clausen polyester "all u need", then run over it with the blocks again and reshoot color/clear.

If I was able to block it level without unearthing bare metal patches I'd seal it and reshoot color/clear.

Good luck man, I hope they get it right for you.
 
Man, sux! I feel your pain! I like what Alleyoop said; don't bring a restoration to a collision and vice a versa! So true! Collision shops are money makers, but, they have to move product in and out fast to make money! Restoration shops can be money makers if your name is solid gold, your work is flawless, AND you have a good business head on your shoulders! People will pay for good work. Sadly, in this case, you didn't get what you payed for! I used to think cc needed to be applied quickly, but, not so, you got to sand down the base coat to get rid of the orange peel.
 
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