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What requirements are there to titling and registering a "Salvaged" car?

To certify a write off here. It has to pass a government recognized inspection station.
Has to meet the standards of the manufacture year.
No rust holes through the passenger compartment.
As it is now, I can title any vehicle that hasn’t been written off, if I can show proof of ownership.
Last year I titled a car I bought in 1990, no problems. No inspection required. It probably hadn’t been registered since the late 1970’s. Never previously registered in Saskatchewan.
Just waiting for the government to cancel this at some time.
 
Doubling down on bad! Your good, man!:thumbsup:
A little off topic.
About 20 years ago a friend and his wife went to Mexico. Rented a car to travel around. Had heard somewhere that if you are stopped by the police, slip them a few bucks.
He got stopped for something minor, gave the officer his passport with some pesos in it.
Almost ended up in jail, officer explained very forcefully that he was not corrupt!. Also registration on the rental did not match the car. They had to wait a day for the rental agency to bring another car.
His mistake was not asking people who had been there about bribing the police. Including ourselves.
 
MI is pretty close to OH (as posted above). I have done several of these salvage rebuilds and they involve some SOS paperwork and an inspection (our county used a Sheriff Deputy) to check that the repair parts had their proper receipts and that the VIN's (allowing for the replaced panels) matched the existing title. There was some basic function tests but everything was done inside my garage and maybe took 15 minutes. He then sent in his paperwork to the state and they sent me a new "rebuilt salvage" title in the mail. This title allows you to register the vehicle. Took about two weeks IIRC. Not hard at all to get it back on the road, at least in MI.
Receipts?

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Most of what I did was with used stuff that I already had here. I replaced the front structure with a stub I had from a 1970 Belvedere. The K member, suspension and steering stuff were from my stash of parts. The only new stuff was gaskets, pistons, Rings, bearings and misc engine stuff. Oh yeah, fluids too. The wiring is refurbished original components. The tires and wheels are seasoned. Using old stuff I already had was how I'm only into this car another $4000 or so over the initial $5000 purchase price.
 
The DMV does not clearly define the specifics of the inspection process. It does not state what exactly has to be in place and functional.
The car has no heater/defroster yet, the wipers aren't in place, no horn, no seat belts, no left side mirror either. How do I know what they are looking for if they don't spell it out?
 
Receipts?

View attachment 1381162
Most of what I did was with used stuff that I already had here. I replaced the front structure with a stub I had from a 1970 Belvedere. The K member, suspension and steering stuff were from my stash of parts. The only new stuff was gaskets, pistons, Rings, bearings and misc engine stuff. Oh yeah, fluids too. The wiring is refurbished original components. The tires and wheels are seasoned. Using old stuff I already had was how I'm only into this car another $4000 or so over the initial $5000 purchase price.
thats-what-they-b99e60d047.jpg
 
Ha ha..
This isn't a rebody. It isn't a restoration either. The VIN , engine block and trunk gutter numbers are all the same that the car was built with. The VIN is on the decal on the drivers door. The only deviation is the core support numbers since the original section was torn off and missing when I bought the car.

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The next wicket after obtaining the revived/rebuilt title are transfer requirements for the state that becomes your new home/domicile. Every state's requirements are different of course.

Digression:
I had a coworker that brought a rebuilt salvage car to Georgia from Utah when he moved here. It was a royal p.i.t.a. to get a Georgia rebuilt title. He got it, but the whole process was onerous and took quite a few months before he was granted the Georgia rebuilt title.
 
Your buddy "Uncle Tony" has a solution....

 
Ha ha..
This isn't a rebody. It isn't a restoration either. The VIN , engine block and trunk gutter numbers are all the same that the car was built with. The VIN is on the decal on the drivers door. The only deviation is the core support numbers since the original section was torn off and missing when I bought the car.

View attachment 1381173
They are looking at it from a few different angles. For example:
1) Was it stolen?
2) Was it rebuilt using stolen parts?
3) Is the rebuilt car safe to operate on the road?
4) Will the rebuilt car be safe in the next accident? Was there structural damage from the original accident and has it now been properly/adequately repaired?
 
The DMV does not clearly define the specifics of the inspection process. It does not state what exactly has to be in place and functional.
The car has no heater/defroster yet, the wipers aren't in place, no horn, no seat belts, no left side mirror either. How do I know what they are looking for if they don't spell it out?
Yep, DMV is pretty vague with info. Best bet is to contact your local CHP office; we've been learning about this stuff for my buddy's '35 Ford build that will be registered as a "Special Build". Not quite the same as a salvage but yeah there's a few hoops to jump through...mostly to make sure it's (a) road safe and (b) not built from stolen parts.
 
The DMV does not clearly define the specifics of the inspection process. It does not state what exactly has to be in place and functional.
The car has no heater/defroster yet, the wipers aren't in place, no horn, no seat belts, no left side mirror either. How do I know what they are looking for if they don't spell it out?
They aren't going to tell you over their website and they're not going to tell you over the telephone either. They will probably tell you it is up to the inspector and he provides "final determination". The most you'll get out of them is something along the lines of "we are inspecting to assure federal motor vehicle safety standards are met" or "every case is unique and we'll let you know if you pass or fail". If you're lucky, then they will tell you what needs to be done before they grant you a rebuilt title.

Who knows, maybe your state is more lax than other states.
 
I've found that with building inspections for structures, the inspectors are quick to pick out what they think is wrong but often silent when it comes to solutions. They look to outside "Credible sources" to insulate themselves from liability. They defer to accredited "Structural engineers" for many issues.
 
I've found that with building inspections for structures, the inspectors are quick to pick out what they think is wrong but often silent when it comes to solutions. They look to outside "Credible sources" to insulate themselves from liability. They defer to accredited "Structural engineers" for many issues.
Geez Greg, imagine if you will, you'd bought that car as a wreck like you did, but you lived in Florida. And you went and spent a ton of money on go-fast parts, then you try to get it legally on the road.

I think you're in a better position where you are than some states. I hope your inspection process goes well.....you have at least worked hard on that car, and deserve to be able to put it back on the road.
 
Never really sure how my input will be taken, but here goes. From the Polk's MV Reg Man Volume II which covers all states. Note the entry A, "Special Titles" and "Prior Junk/Salvage" pp.1 and State Assigned VINs" pp.2

My take on this text and the rest of the umpteen pages I skimmed, is that yes you can register a vehicle deemed "Salvage," and it will require an inspection, record search, receipts and possibly an independent appraisal, and fees of some level, but it will always have the tag "Salvage" on the title for the rest of its days. Note on one such adventure they gave me some grief for not enough docs, receipts, for "fixing" the car. On following like events I had receipts in hand which satisfied them more. Some cases they require a "Bonded Title," which can be quite a costly tie-up of funds for three years in my state.

That said, back in the day I knew I guy whose aunt worked at a title transfer business and it seemed he was able to get anything through all the time.

In Wash State, one of number of highly regulated states not unlike Cal, for inspections the State Patrol's, method was, and I assume still is the same, to take possession of your vehicle and sequester it into a garage, close the door and make you wait outside while they do their evaluation. One of my two experiences with state inspections took over an hour and resulted in the Wa State Patrol issuing a new VIN for the vehicle. I was not too thrilled, as they chissled off my original VIN and somewhat crudely attached their universal VIN tag, but there was no recourse and my original VIN was destroyed.

The other time, they left the original VIN and I was more pleased. Both events resulted in title and license qualification. The good time it was near lunch when I arrived, and I sometimes wonder if they were just in a hurry to go to lunch and didn't want to spend too much time on it.

The Polk Manuals I have are bit dated, 1989, but I found them quite useful when I was younger, more ambitious and I bought more cars from out of state somewhat regularly. ...............
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Here is a list NM uses. I would
assume California requirements
are similar.

STATUTE EQUIPMENT AUTO/TRUCK REQUIREMENTS
Headlamp
At least 2, one on each side of front
of vehicle. Must be multiple beam.
Turn Signals
Four, one each at left & right of front & rear of vehicle
(Red, Amber or Yellow)
Wiper Blade & Arm
At least one on driver's side
in good working order.
Windshield & Side Glass
Must be unobstructed.
Speedometer
With Odometer in good
working order
Horn
At least one, audible from 200ft. (No siren, bell or whistle)
Seat Belts
1964 models and later, installed
at left & right front seats.
Rear View Mirror
At least one, providing a clear view 200ft. to the rear.
Two separate means of applying brakes,
each to work on at least 2 wheels and
capable of controlling, stopping and holding the vehicle
Tires Min 3/32nd tread depth
Rear Glass
Stop Lamp
License Plate Lamp
Reflectors
At least 2 (red) at left & right sides
of rear of vehicle.
Exhaust System
Mufflers (and emissions controls on 1968 models and later) in good working order
preventing excessive noise, fumes and smoke.

One other item might have to be
added. A certified weight slip so the
state knows what highway use taxes
to apply. A major part of your
registration cost.
 
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