What to expect from 1970 383 HP

[R413]

Want to make a profit on this 383? Don't put one dime into it. But get it running and show the buyer how good it is. There is your profit.

What does your car weigh? Too much gear is a band aid to get the car moving. It is the Stock eliminator recipe to ET, but lots of valve spring and maintence costs. Those engine don't last very long.

Go price pistons for a 383 block and 440 crank.

 

[340runner]

Want to make a profit on this 383? Don't put one dime into it. But get it running and show the buyer how good it is. There is your profit.

What does your car weigh? Too much gear is a band aid to get the car moving. It is the Stock eliminator recipe to ET, but lots of valve spring and maintence costs. Those engine don't last very long.

Go price pistons for a 383 block and 440 crank.

With my 340 with aluminum top end in the car, spare tire, 3/4 tank of gas full street tires all around its 3880 with me. No spare, on slicks and skinnies, and less gas im in the 37xxs probably. I dont know how much a 383 will add to weight though

 

[YY1]

70 383 "HP" was listed at 9.5:1 unlike the previous 10:1.

I forgot to mention my Bee also had the much maligned at the time Torker II intake that was supposed to "rob bottom end" in addition to the stock converter and "one size too large" cam.

That car had no lack of low end whatsoever.


(much) Later A/B testing revealed not much difference in low end between Torker II and Performer RPM.

 

[6PKRTSE]

Most don't like 383's. However, I have always liked the 383. I have had several over the years that all ran really well. I currently have 383's in two of my cars. One is built and has a bunch of go fast goodies and will whip on most any other big blocks.

 

[340runner]

Most don't like 383's. However, I have always liked the 383. I have had several over the years that all ran really well. I currently have 383's in two of my cars. One is built and has a bunch of go fast goodies and will whip on most any other big blocks.

Wanna spill the secrets to making a 383 go? Sounds like its gonna take a Lil more than the standard heads cam intake and headers

 

[Jerry Hall]

"I also have a nitrous plate kit sitting in the corner of my garage with a full bottle, set up for a 100 shot.."

I wouldn't spray a stock bottom end. Just my opinion.
I built a 383 years ago that ran consistently in the low 11's. If it's truly a 70 383, swap those 906 heads for some 915's that will take your 9.5 compression ratio to 10.5. That with a good cam (power range from about 3500-7000 rpms) and about a 750 cfm carb, should give you the blast you are looking for.

 

[R413]

It's all about the combination and ring seal. 3800 is heavy for drag racing, more cubes will help the problem.

Keep in mind, can't overstate this: Anything you do to a 383 will cost the same on a 440.

 

[340runner]

Well, I was honestly thinking just going with either the 80cc 440source head or the 75cc e street, heavy favor to the 440source though because id rather have the "stock look". Not for the original aspect but more for the deceiving aspect. For money getting 915 heads, then doing a valve job of which i have no tools for, then whatever work I want to do porting wise, I might as well get alum heads. Not to mention it opens up my tuning window

"I also have a nitrous plate kit sitting in the corner of my garage with a full bottle, set up for a 100 shot.."

I wouldn't spray a stock bottom end. Just my opinion.
I built a 383 years ago that ran consistently in the low 11's. If it's truly a 70 383, swap those 906 heads for some 915's that will take your 9.5 compression ratio to 10.5. That with a good cam (power range from about 3500-7000 rpms) and about a 750 cfm carb, should give you the blast you are looking for.

 

[pnora]

Well, I was honestly thinking just going with either the 80cc 440source head or the 75cc e street, heavy favor to the 440source though because id rather have the "stock look". Not for the original aspect but more for the deceiving aspect. For money getting 915 heads, then doing a valve job of which i have no tools for, then whatever work I want to do porting wise, I might as well get alum heads. Not to mention it opens up my tuning window

Better start saving that 10k for the rebuild.

 

[Cranky]

In hillbillyland they just put the center sump of the oil pan in a tire laying on the ground.....

Yup

Im gonna need the bottom end with 4.56s? I already have a massively overcammed 71 340 that someone shoved 8.5 to 1 comp pistons, I think the 383 should have more low end at any rate
I will say the 340 takes off when you get past 3k, aluminum heads, headers and intake with a 750dp let's it keep pulling past 6500 when I shift

Over cammed and 8.5? Yup, upper rpm will generally be higher but what will it do at higher rpm? A looser converter might be the ticket?

Most don't like 383's. However, I have always liked the 383. I have had several over the years that all ran really well. I currently have 383's in two of my cars. One is built and has a bunch of go fast goodies and will whip on most any other big blocks.

My first 383 showed me how well they can run!

 

[340runner]

Yup

Over cammed and 8.5? Yup, upper rpm will generally be higher but what will it do at higher rpm? A looser converter might be the ticket?


My first 383 showed me how well they can run!

It is a 4 speed car, so that's not an issue. Over 3.5k rpm? Takes off like a rocket. From roll it contends with and beats a lot of the time 5.7 r/ts, not that I like to roll race but that's where my car shines at the moment is the 10mph start

 

[Cranky]

It is a 4 speed car, so that's not an issue. Over 3.5k rpm? Takes off like a rocket. From roll it contends with and beats a lot of the time 5.7 r/ts, not that I like to roll race but that's where my car shines at the moment is the 10mph start

I'm a stick guy from way back and like the fact that I can add 'stall' with my left foot!!! And there have been times when I pushed in the clutch on a 'roll' start to bring up the rpm. Most of the times, a big block didn't need that but small blocks were a different story most of the time.

 

[340runner]

Better start saving that 10k for the rebuild.

You think itll be 10k? 1.5k for 440source stealth pair, called machine shop its 1k max really, might be less even if it doesnt need bored, say 900$ on cam related stuff, 500 on bearings and gaskets and rings, im at 5k ish if all goes well. Which it won't, but whatever

The entire "520 hp" 440source engine kit is 7700$, and that's everything

 

[Some Car Guy]

Im gonna need the bottom end with 4.56s? I already have a massively overcammed 71 340 that someone shoved 8.5 to 1 comp pistons, I think the 383 should have more low end at any rate

I will say the 340 takes off when you get past 3k, aluminum heads, headers and intake with a 750dp let's it keep pulling past 6500 when I shift

I don’t know if you will have top end range with that cam to take advantage of 4.56s. Good heads will help of course. If you already have the cam it can’t hurt to try. They are known for low vacuum too. Just seems like a lot of better options these days. 1975 it was a good option.

 

[Some Car Guy]

You think itll be 10k? 1.5k for 440source stealth pair, called machine shop its 1k max really, might be less even if it doesnt need bored, say 900$ on cam related stuff, 500 on bearings and gaskets and rings, im at 5k ish if all goes well. Which it won't, but whatever

The entire "520 hp" 440source engine kit is 7700$, and that's everything

Dwayne porter has told me for years he finds little issues with stealths. I heard he no longer does heads, but he didn’t charge a whole lot to go over a set and true them up. I’d check with him or another mopar shop and see about having them go through these things to save a step later.

 

[pnora]

You think itll be 10k? 1.5k for 440source stealth pair, called machine shop its 1k max really, might be less even if it doesnt need bored, say 900$ on cam related stuff, 500 on bearings and gaskets and rings, im at 5k ish if all goes well. Which it won't, but whatever

The entire "520 hp" 440source engine kit is 7700$, and that's everything

You can bet that a 55 year old unknown block will need to be bored for any quality rebuild. By the time that block gets hot tanked and cleaned, squared up, line bored, cylinders bored, cam bearings installed , Quick guess 1k to 1.5k . Then there is assembly, cam degreeing, shipping, taxes, and misc. 10k is not imaginary.

 

[1KoolBee]

383->451

 

[1KoolBee]

Dwayne porter has told me for years he finds little issues with stealths. I heard he no longer does heads, but he didn’t charge a whole lot to go over a set and true them up. I’d check with him or another mopar shop and see about having them go through these things to save a step later.

I sent Dwayne a bare set of new Stealths, he did a great job with them. Flowed about 290 with basic clean up. Price was good. Hope he’s still in the business.

 

[Rusty knuckles]

I love 383's. Cam, intake, carb, and headers will put you over 400hp. If you're willing to mess with heads a home port job will get you a fair bit more. Rev like a small block, torque like a big block.

 

[1KoolBee]

Most don't like 383's. However, I have always liked the 383. I have had several over the years that all ran really well. I currently have 383's in two of my cars. One is built and has a bunch of go fast goodies and will whip on most any other big blocks.

My Bee’s 383 endured a LOT of abuse without a whimper back in the day!