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What to look for when buying a used Sure Grip???

westie47

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Looking for some helpful tips for buying 8 3/4 rears. I have a line on a 714 case 3.23 Sure Grip. From the pics it looks to be in good shape but I don't know much about Sure Grips. Is there anything I should look for to ensure that it's as the seller says? Is there a way to check that the Sure Grip is working when I go look at it?
 
Make sure it has all of its teeth!

1677BA42-9F46-40AB-AB3D-FA58B00DEE54.jpeg
 
You would need 2 axles and some way hold and twist them. That's checking break away torque. I thinks it's around 3-400 foot pounds
 
If buying online....look for the detail that is not shown in the photos....hidden damage will bite you when it arrives.

I got stung once ....here. :elmer:
 
If your looking in person.
Grab the ring and yoke , ck for play.
Look at the wear pattern on the gears,
Make sure the axle spacer button is inside.
Small yoke us good, prob from a lower horse power car, truck.
 
If your looking in person.
Grab the ring and yoke , ck for play.
Look at the wear pattern on the gears,
Make sure the axle spacer button is inside.
Small yoke us good, prob from a lower horse power car, truck.
What is the axle spacer button? Lol
 
What is the axle spacer button? Lol
Its in the center , its the spacer that the axle ends bump up to so you can set your end play on your bearings.
If someone has knocked the roll pin out and pulled the spacers / buttons to run the green bearings you will have to do the same.
Without the button its not possible to set end play on oem style tapered bearings.
 
You would need 2 axles and some way hold and twist them. That's checking break away torque. I thinks it's around 3-400 foot pounds

this is kind of correct in terms of technique. You want to insert and axle stub in one side and clamp it in a vice, put the center section on it, , then if you can weld another axle stub to a socket you can insert that stub into the other side and use a torque wrench on it to see what torque it breaks away at. You’re looking for 125 foot pounds or more.
 
Learned about axle spacer buttons the hard way when the seals on the tapered axle in my 1964 Plymouth convertible went away.
Replaced the seals and used a straightened coat hanger to stick the spacer in the cross shaft.
Bought the rear supposedly set up by a well known Wrightsville speed shop back in the late 1960's.
 
Cone sure-grips don't have thrust buttons. Cone sure-grips can be repaired, threads here on how. Clutch sure-grip you can buy new clutch plates. Clutch sure-grips are preferred.
 
Looking for some helpful tips for buying 8 3/4 rears. I have a line on a 714 case 3.23 Sure Grip. From the pics it looks to be in good shape but I don't know much about Sure Grips. Is there anything I should look for to ensure that it's as the seller says? Is there a way to check that the Sure Grip is working when I go look at it?
See below.....

You would need 2 axles and some way hold and twist them. That's checking break away torque. I thinks it's around 3-400 foot pounds
This is what I stuck together for going to the swap meets years ago. Any units that had at least some resistance (especially cone types) I would buy but yeah, I liked the ones that were tight but a dry one would be tight even with a lot of wear. Tools of the trade below :D

Cone sure-grips don't have thrust buttons. Cone sure-grips can be repaired, threads here on how. Clutch sure-grip you can buy new clutch plates. Clutch sure-grips are preferred.
Well, they do have a center thrust button but it's a LOT bigger than what the clutch type has.

IMG_20220622_124150097.jpg
 
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