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Wheel alignment specs

quatro

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Hi! Does anyone have a wheel spec chart for my 66 Dodge charger v8? Camber Caster Toe In and Height. Thanks :)
 
Camber Left +1/4 to +3/4 degrees (+1/2 preferred) Right 0 to +1/2 degrees (+1/4 preferred)

Caster Manual steering 0 to -1 degrees
Power steering + 1/4 to + 1 1/4 degrees

Toe in 3/32 to 5/32 1/8 inch preferred

Height 1 7/8 + or - 1/8 inch

This is from the 1966 Dodge service manual
 
Camber Left +1/4 to +3/4 degrees (+1/2 preferred) Right 0 to +1/2 degrees (+1/4 preferred)

Caster Manual steering 0 to -1 degrees
Power steering + 1/4 to + 1 1/4 degrees

Toe in 3/32 to 5/32 1/8 inch preferred

Height 1 7/8 + or - 1/8 inch

This is from the 1966 Dodge service manual

thanks for your help! :)
 
thanks for your help! :)

These specs are not for radial tires...



Alignment


Posted by:John Borris on 01/04/04
Basically our cars were never designed for radial tires. There isn't enough caster adjustment. Caster is like a bicycle front wheel. The more a fork is tilted the easier it is to ride without hands because the caster keeps the bike in a straight line.

For radial tires our cars need about 2 3/4 to 3 degrees of caster. The geometry of the front end components only allow about 1 3/4 max. So to overcome this problem and allow more caster Moog and TRW came up with an upper control arm bushing (the one the adjusting bolt goes through) that is offset. The solution is to install these bushings with the offset in at the front and out at the rear. This will give up up to 2 degrees more caster which will solve your problem.

Posted by: Ken Scobel on 03/23/06
The October 2005 issue of Mopar Action had an article on this subject. They recommend the following for a typical street car.


Camber -0.5 degrees
Caster +2.5 degrees
Toe-in 1/16 to 1/8"

You want as much positive caster as you can get with radials.
 
Thanks allot buddy. That was good info. ive already installed new bushing without the offset so i will try to get the most positive caster as possible. I have installed Adjustable strut bars as well. im not sure How much i can adjust them without damage the LCA Bushing.
 
I also like more negative camber with radials than what the service manual calls for. It makes a big difference in the handling....a positive difference :D
 
Im Thinking of ordering a set of Offset bushings now. do i need offset bushings in the front and rear on control arm? or can i get 2.5 degrees with offset on the rear? Thanks!
 
Im Thinking of ordering a set of Offset bushings now. do i need offset bushings in the front and rear on control arm? or can i get 2.5 degrees with offset on the rear? Thanks!
an offset bushing installed only on one end will also effect castor as well as camber.
 
I have a supplier back here home that have only one set ( two bushings) but im not sure if that will give me the desired value.
 
Camber Left +1/4 to +3/4 degrees (+1/2 preferred) Right 0 to +1/2 degrees (+1/4 preferred)

Caster Manual steering 0 to -1 degrees
Power steering + 1/4 to + 1 1/4 degrees

Toe in 3/32 to 5/32 1/8 inch preferred

Height 1 7/8 + or - 1/8 inch

This is from the 1966 Dodge service manual
Are those specs the same for a 67?
 
Yep. pretty much universal to all Mopars.
 
Here's a chart that will get you there.
1748435090145.png
 
Here's a chart that will get you there. View attachment 1858518
On my 66 Belvedere, I was able to get more camber than 'Max perf street' and liked it! Never did measure caster but the steering wheel came back after making a turn and turning loose of the wheel. It also did fine at high speeds and didn't have orbital float while going through dips etc. and ran 1/8th toe in.
 
On my 66 Belvedere, I was able to get more camber than 'Max perf street' and liked it! Never did measure caster but the steering wheel came back after making a turn and turning loose of the wheel. It also did fine at high speeds and didn't have orbital float while going through dips etc. and ran 1/8th toe in.
A good alignment tech doesn't need factory specs to do a good alignment. They know what angles work and which wear tires.
 
A good alignment tech doesn't need factory specs to do a good alignment. They know what angles work and which wear tires.
After getting rooked by a 'known good alignment' tech (and more than once) I 'learnt' how to do my own......NASCAR style lol. A machinist level helped too :)
 
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