The installation kit like in post #10 can be rented at Advance Auto or other parts supply stores. Use a metal flat punch to remove the cups/races. The same can be used to install them but there is a risk of chipping them.
Wheel bearing race installation
- Thread starter Aeronet
- Start date
steve340
Well-Known Member
I just use an ordinary steel pin punch for removal and installation. Sometimes they get a bit banged up but a couple of minutes at the linisher and away again.
So long as you do not use anything as hard or harder than the bearing cup you should be OK.
So long as you do not use anything as hard or harder than the bearing cup you should be OK.
And most of us don't have punches/drifts that's as hard or harder than bearing races laying around.
Another good type of punch would be stainless steel. It's fairly soft but pretty tough stuff so a stainless punch with a small tip will become boogered easily. Brass is actually fairly hard and usually chips easily but is much softer than the bearing race. The chipping is why I don't like using brass. Like most metals, brass can be had in different hardness.....but a steel punch works well too. Just go easy with it.
This vid says the bearing cone and race is made as a matched set.....but, I've bought plenty of Timken bearings from bearing supply houses that were not packaged in the same box. If you buy bearings from an auto parts store, they will be in one box though. Why is that? Also, have never had a problem with mixing bearings but will not do that unless they come from the same manufacturer and will NEVER use bearings made in China!!
Watch out, mopardanman will say you are full of s**t.
Yeah, what's up with that? I've been working part time at a local parts store and noticed this. Things have changed over the years. I have always been one to keep the races with the bearings as a set when packaged this way. You couldn't even buy them separately at one time.
I had to replace a pinion bearing and thought I would just order one from work. Well they were to come as two separate items, race and bearing. I had to research the numbers in order to get a set. I also had to check for the origins of manufacturer as they are from all over the place, China, Indonesia, Mexico and USA. The same brand can have two or three different locations. It's a crap shoot when ordering but I got lucky and the set that I ordered came through with USA on the box, bearing and race.
I'm sticking with USA and using a set for now until that's not even a possible option in the future. If having to buy them separately, just make sure they are from the same manufacturer and country as tolerances could and will vary between factorys.
Aeronet
Well-Known Member
I got the outer race out using a steel punch. I'll have to cut the inner one out (see photo). On the old one I have you can see that there is room behind the race to drive it out. On the new one there is less than 1/16" to get anything behind the race. A screwdriver blade won't fit.
steve340
Well-Known Member
If you know someone who is a good welder just run a bead of weld on the race and it will shrink and drop out.
Don't think I'd even worry about it. What you could do is wipe some grease on the cone and see how it fits in the race. Rotate it and it should leave a tell tail trail.....
Aeronet
Well-Known Member
The races that came with the rotors don't seem like bad quality, but the Timkens do seem better. When I run my thumbnail across the surface of the Timkens they are definitely smoother. My nail catches a little on the others, so I'm committed to swapping them out.
And now that I'm on this forum I can't half-*** it anymore. Plus, I really hate to waste some quality Timken races.
But, yes, I could just use what came with the rotors and I'm sure everything would be fine.
And now that I'm on this forum I can't half-*** it anymore. Plus, I really hate to waste some quality Timken races.
But, yes, I could just use what came with the rotors and I'm sure everything would be fine.
Are you saying you feel no one here half asses stuff from time to time??
But I understand your reasoning. Shineese bearings usually have sharp edges and the roller surfaces doesn't seem to be as smooth as a Timken but tapered roller bearings are pretty tough. Not sure how tough the China made ones are though.....
Aeronet
Well-Known Member
No, every intelligent person knows when to say "**** it, good enough." I was kind of joking, but really I have no excuse for half-assing it with all the knowledge on this forum. In the past I had a few shop manuals and what wits God gave me.
steve340
Well-Known Member
There are plenty of quality products that come out of China I believe. Many large and reputable companies manufacture there.
The point with things like bearings is the quality of material used, machining tolerances and quality control.
Get those things right and good products can be made anywhere.
The point with things like bearings is the quality of material used, machining tolerances and quality control.
Get those things right and good products can be made anywhere.
Aeronet
Well-Known Member
Yes, China can produce good stuff. They also produce a lot of junk. Really, I just want to learn how to do this. I would have gotten it done today, but the Chinese threw me a curve and I can't use a punch to drive the inner race out.
The rotors look like quality stuff, but like I said, I've got the Timkens and I need to learn how to do this. I have a '69 Coronet that it might not be a bad idea to replace the bearings on. As I've gotten older I've really gotten into routine maintenance. It makes me feel good.
Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
The rotors look like quality stuff, but like I said, I've got the Timkens and I need to learn how to do this. I have a '69 Coronet that it might not be a bad idea to replace the bearings on. As I've gotten older I've really gotten into routine maintenance. It makes me feel good.
Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
Get yourself a DREMEL with a carbide cutting bit, and just section it out, if your that dead set on replacing the race.
I use these all the time.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...l-Iron-Ceramics-and-Hard-Wood-9901/202263215?
No problems.
I use these all the time.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...l-Iron-Ceramics-and-Hard-Wood-9901/202263215?
No problems.
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That dremel tool needs to be variable speed if that carbide bit is going to survive cutting that very hard steel. It will probably be better to use small cylindrical stones if the speed of the dremel can't be slowed down and even then, you will use more than one stone but stones are much cheaper than carbide bits....at least good carbide bits.
Dremel has speeds from 1 to 10.
Then flip the rotor over, and notch a little area out, behind the installed race, 90 degrees apart, like if one was there, in the original machining of the rotor, and then use a pin punch and hammer, and knock out the race.
Easy, peasy.
You could probably reach over the race with the bit and recess a relief behind it. Can't believe they didn't allow something behind that race for removal.
Aeronet
Well-Known Member
Good idea. Thanks.
Aeronet
Well-Known Member
Got one out.
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