Wheel stand tricks.

[Burns69RT]

Hey guys looking for some tips to lifting the front wheels on a 70 RR. Everyone knows the old Chevy trick with removing the front swaybar and having v6 springs. Wondering if it works that way with mopars? 440 bigblock, 4 speed and 410 suregrip. Would no swaybar and stock small block torsion bars do the trick? Any advice helps.

 

[dvw]

Traction, power, weight transfer. Without those three it isn't going anywhere. That being said take the front shocks off hit the throttle let off and let it bounce back up on the 2nd hit of the throttle. Anything, and I mean anything will pull the wheels on the bounce. I've done it with a 2.8 carburated S-10.
Doug

 

[Burns69RT]

I will have those 3, just curious if there's any old school drag racer trick. Like small block torsion bars or something like that.

 

[mmissile]

Need more of those 3, or it will do it.

 

[440+6]

Traction, power, weight transfer. Without those three it isn't going anywhere. That being said take the front shocks off hit the throttle let off and let it bounce back up on the 2nd hit of the throttle. Anything, and I mean anything will pull the wheels on the bounce. I've done it with a 2.8 carburated S-10.
Doug

Be lookin' like a low rider jumping up and down like that lol

 

[Cranky]

Chevy tricks? Loosening the front sway bar (or just take it off) and using 6 cylinder bars has been common practice since the 60's or ealier. Another good way along with the 6 banger bars is to install ladder bars and then adjust them for max front end lift. There's plenty of info on the net for this. I remember a 56 Chevy that only ran 12's that was putting the front wheels into the air a good 2 feet or better using them. Usually, if you have a car that's capable of running high 10's (pretty easy these days) with ladders, running 6 banger bars with 90/10 front shocks should put it up pretty good.

 

[Burns69RT]

Cool, I've got 318 torsion bars in the car right now and they are in REALLY good shape and instead of buying heavy duty torsion bars keep the small block bars knowing that there will be added benefit of helping the front wheels lift off the ground.

 

[Cranky]

Cool, I've got 318 torsion bars in the car right now and they are in REALLY good shape and instead of buying heavy duty torsion bars keep the small block bars knowing that there will be added benefit of helping the front wheels lift off the ground.

6 banger bars are even better for what you are trying to do. Had a car that had the /6 TB's with ladders in the rear. The car ran 10.60's and would pull the fronts up and then land too quickly which unloaded the rear tires. After chasing my tail making adjustments, using suspension limiters etc, a simple shock change on the front solved the problem. The car I'm building now will have 318 springs but the front end is a lot lighter than stock but it will be a street car mostly.

 

[Burns69RT]

Thanks cranky. Mine will be more of a daily and have a fiber glass 6 pack hood eventually. Then fiber glass bumpers.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Lift front wheels ?

Alter the rear wheelbase 15", move the front wheels 10" forward (with a tube front axle) and set the engine back 26", put your 440 on Hilborn Fuel Injection with 70 per cent Nitromethane mix and you will carry the front wheels for the full 1/8 mile, guaranteed. I did it in 1968.

 

[Burns69RT]

That's badass!

 

[Mike Gaines]

Lift front wheels ?

Or...in today's world get yourself a 500" motor making a minimum of 600HP, Cal Trac 90/10 front shocks, Cal Trac 9 way Adjustable RR shocks, Cal Trac bars, Cal Trac mono leaf rear springs and a good set of slicks and you will pull the front wheels, guaranteed. I did this last week

 

[Burns69RT]

I saw the pics mike so awesome that your ride did that!

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Did you say wheelstands?
A good set of front and rear shocks,A working rear suspension Loose frontend and gobs of torque equals this

 

[Budnicks]

Also
Weight transfer, is a main requirement,
every 1 # you take off the front/nose is almost like adding 2 #'s to the rear

carpeting & insulation, if not necessary, it's dead weight too

tubular k-memebr, uca's & lca's & dynamic strut-rods {even if you use torsion bars}

move the battery {or 2} to the pass. side rear, that's a easy deal
light weight racing seats & tracks

replace/use aluminum replacing iron engine parts, it's 40% of the weight
{like heads, intake, water-pump, housing radiator}

fiberglass replacing steel body & bumpers, where ever possible
lightweight bumper mounts too

Lexan replacing heavy glass, where ever possible
anything to help take weight off the nose,

change the front to rear balance/bias & ladder-bars or four-link,
scale the car see where you need to change

lightweight or lighter @ min. rims, brakes & driveline or any rotating mass

suspension & unsprung-weight effects allot of changes,
especially where you can change the instant center of gravity,
like with Ladders or 4-link & even some effects with CalTracs & mono leafs with rollers

more rear weight bias, makes it much easier
less squat in the rear, so it doesn't waste the momentum moving up & out of the beams/launch
lighter looser front shocks, like a 90/10 are cheap, coil overs are nice too, may have to use a limiter if too much
CalTrac or S/S springs are a little bit of a help too, not like Ladders or 4-link & coil-overs

but with non adjustable suspension, you need real power/torque,
to wheelie much, short of just a little one wheel jerk off

it's easier with a professional coil-over & Ladder or 4-link suspension
than with heavy stock-ish or OE style reworked suspension parts
But it still can be done

there's tons of books on the subject too

here's a couple of decent explanations of it
http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-003_web.pdf
http://www.raceglides.com.au/files/fourlink-ladderbar-tips.pdf

good luck, wheels up & Happy Moparing

Aluminum engines & 1000hp
588-600+ci doesn't hurt either,
but suspension is allot cheaper thou

it may not run as fast, but will look pretty cool doing it...LOL

 

[Cranky]

Lighten up the engine too with aluminum heads, intake, water pump housing and pump and if you can afford it, use an aluminum block. Manual steering came stock with an aluminum steering box. I've lightened up stock K frames down to 26 lbs and the list goes on. I like to move everything I can towards the center of the car to quicken pitch rotation but in your case, you can add weight to the very back of the car. I've seen people install solid bar stock just inside the trunk weather strip lip. Notice most of the mods I mention are cheap except for the engine. A light car takes less horse power too......

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Also a loose converter helps.

 

[Burns69RT]

Yeah I'm running a 4 speed but doing the msd 6al2 with the built in 2 step

 

[Phil McGrath]

I think /6 and small 8 T-bars are the same? I hate too go against the grain here but don't expect long service life if your going too run them on a street car no matter how much weight you have taken off the front end. It will help but when they start too sag its time for another pair under the nose, and I would buy use used ones either.

 

[daytona kid]

If your just wanting to do it once and get a pic, just take the front shocks off and bounce it up. I'd like to get a pic of mine (when finished) leaving the line at the local strip with the wheels up. Funny, but nowadays it seems that most of the fastest cars are the ones that don't wheelie.