Wow, this is a fun thread to read through and watch unfold. 
Where can I put breaker bar 71 318
- Thread starter Oppose.o
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True, if the rings are set up then it's possible/likely some of the valves may be stuck as well.
I would remove the valve covers and rockers.
Get a brass drift and try tapping/hitting each valve stem to see if they move freely.
If they are stuck then try penetrating oil on the valve guide and stem and let it sit for a day or two.
Personally I would try this along with rotating the crank before just pulling the engine.
Oppose.o
Member
Maybe, I am a weak 14 year old and every family member around me avoids the car or any questions I ask about it, so yes it probably just is hard to turn. Every time I try to ask the internet where to start working on the car to get it running there is 5 million different answers, so all I'm assuming is that if I cannot manually pull it and the car has been sitting for 20 years it needs a breaker bar. Any advice would be great!
Maybe this will help... It's a big block but the crank bolt is in the same place so it really doesn't matter.... You can see the bolt you need to put a breaker bar on is below the water pump, now put the fan on there & try to reach it.... Thats why some suggest getting access from the bottom... And they are right, access is better... Still not easy but better.... Also you can see the bolt is recessed into the crank pulley hence the suggestion of a short extension.... If you try to use to long of an extension first you'll be in the fan, next you'll hit the fan shroud & finally you'll run into the radiator....
The other way to get there is to pull the fan & shroud out, then access is much better... It should take some effort (50-80 ft-lbs) to turn the engine with an 18" breaker bar but you shouldn't have to really lean into it...
The other way to get there is to pull the fan & shroud out, then access is much better... It should take some effort (50-80 ft-lbs) to turn the engine with an 18" breaker bar but you shouldn't have to really lean into it...
Oppose.o
Member
Thanks! How high do you think the car has to be? Also this is kind of out there but do you think it would be smarter to just let a restoration shop do it so I don't make anything worse? The engine only has 35k miles on it so it would suck if I did something to ruin it.
You ain't gonna hurt anything... If it's locked up you won't move it with a bar, if it's not locked up it'll be good to be moving again...
The higher you can get it safely the easier it'll be but if your a skinny guy you could probably do what you need to do with 4'-6" more clearance...
The higher you can get it safely the easier it'll be but if your a skinny guy you could probably do what you need to do with 4'-6" more clearance...
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and use a good set of jack stands....... Geezus
Yeah, I take that as obvious but I need to consider the audience...
Oppose.o
Member
Thanks, but overall how much time do you think it would take for someone who barely knows about mechanical stuff to get the car running and driving? Because I don't have much time in between playing basketball, working, training, school, etc. To work on it. Not to mention my "workspace" is a carport with two abandoned tractors on both sides of the car, and a yellow jacket and mouse infestation. AND it is on uneven gravel too. It would be fun to work on the car but it seems very time consuming.
Oppose.o
Member
Good lord I'm not that dumb! I bought a brand new jack and jack stands, along with cinder blocks for extra safety. NOT harbor freight stuff either.
That's a huge variable, it depends on what it needs.. Just running? Or ready to drive? Huge difference, I could probably have it running in a couple hours or less... Ready to drive is a whole different ball game..
Throw the cinder blocks away.. Those are well known for fracturing & collapsing.. If you want added security beyond jack stands throw a steel rim & a length of 4x4 under the car
Oppose.o
Member
Sorta both? I don't need someone to do everything but I do need some "training wheels" if you know what I mean. It doesn't have to be flawless but I just want it to the point where if there is a problem I can easily diagnose it and either fix it myself or if need be get someone else to fix it. I can do all of the cosmetic stuff and a decent amount of the wiring. Not road legal but just able to drive in all of it's gears and stop/ turn with no issues.
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the answers you seek depend on the depth of your pockets
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The reality is, those who lack experience in any area will likely not know much about what they are looking at.
Experience is something gained through both trial and error and the time it takes to recognize both.
In your position if you want to learn about the inside of an engine and what the different parts do, I would pull the engine ( with a friend of course). Get the proper year Factory Service Manual. Many can be downloaded for free from the internet.
Make sure to have a clean, safe area to work and store parts. Buy some basic hand tools. The service manual can be used as a guide.
Take plenty of pictures before you remove each item, and bag it and label it for later. This will save you many headaches later.
Take your time, have an experienced helper with you if possible. Ask lots of questions as you go.
As with anything you do, the first one takes the longest as you learn where everything goes.
It may just need rings, gaskets, seals. and possible head rebuilding. You won't know until you get there.
Remember that every opinion on here about what the problem might be with a "locked up engine" are just guesses. No one can know with out being there and seeing exactly what you are working with.
Good luck.
Experience is something gained through both trial and error and the time it takes to recognize both.
In your position if you want to learn about the inside of an engine and what the different parts do, I would pull the engine ( with a friend of course). Get the proper year Factory Service Manual. Many can be downloaded for free from the internet.
Make sure to have a clean, safe area to work and store parts. Buy some basic hand tools. The service manual can be used as a guide.
Take plenty of pictures before you remove each item, and bag it and label it for later. This will save you many headaches later.
Take your time, have an experienced helper with you if possible. Ask lots of questions as you go.
As with anything you do, the first one takes the longest as you learn where everything goes.
It may just need rings, gaskets, seals. and possible head rebuilding. You won't know until you get there.
Remember that every opinion on here about what the problem might be with a "locked up engine" are just guesses. No one can know with out being there and seeing exactly what you are working with.
Good luck.
Oppose.o
Member
I'm not trying to sound like a a-hole with "daddy's money" because we used to be poor, but I'd say I'm pretty set, it still could be too much though. My theory is that at least if I pay someone it will save money in the long run because I wouldn't have to pay for stupid mistakes. This probably also isn't a good first project due to the fact that the car has just about every weird add on possible, and some weird "environmentaly friendly" devices that seem to have been added on way after the car was made. I would still be very willing to work on it but I'm just questioning if it's worth it.
Whether you jump in and learn something or drag it to a professional is up to you.... To me I've always taken the challenge, every time I repair something it gives me satisfaction, a sense of accomplishment & more confidence for the next project... People here can guide you but we can't do the work...
LowBikeMike
Well-Known Member
I'd run a wanted Ad for a mentor. One guy or gal on this forum you can bounce ideas off of. Lots of good people here to help but in the open forum it's sometimes hard to see the good advice for the bad. If you and your mentor need help, then post to the forum.
ka0mek
Well-Known Member
yes remove all the belt & spark plugs & fill the cylinders with transmission fluid & let it set . then each day try to turn it over & top the cylinders off . keep this up till it turns over freely now u may have hydrostatic lock witch means the cylinders r full of water or oil &water mix either way with all thr plugs removed it will be easier to rotate the motor
george glover
Member
i have had good luck moving it by the fly wheel
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