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Who still has the original dealer emblem on the decklid? What kind of alloy?

74ChargerSE440 said:
Thanks for the tip but I will almost certain not use it.... because of the substantial chance it messes my paint up... and it will not stick?

I will use double sided 3M tape instead.

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Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for 3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive, 08061, 5 oz Tube at Amazon.com. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users.
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To each his own.

I used it to re-attach the emblem on my Newport and it worked well.
 
74ChargerSE440 said:
Ok! Do you have a picture?
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Here ya go...put it on 5 years ago and still holding strong!

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My Satellite had the dealer emblem on the deck lid when I got it. It was plastic - had the dealer name/location in light text on a dark background covered in clear plastic. It was stuck on w/double-sided tape. The car had been repainted before I bought it and the emblem was broken in 2 pieces so I suspect it had been pried off and reapplied.

Whatever tape they used only lasted about 5-6 years. It started coming loose so I took it off and saved it sometime before I restored the car in the early 90's. If only I could remember where I put it so it would be safe, lol.
 
I removed the free advertising from my '79 Chrysler 300 a long time ago and stuck it on an old tool kit. I have no intention of reattaching it to the car.

Mesquite, Texas is east of Dallas. Bob Knight Chrysler Plymouth is no longer in business.

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This is what Bob Knight thinks of yer intentions regarding his advertising....

indiana-chair.gif


:lol:
 
My 66 Belvedere, one has the holes and ghosting from Yost Plymouth in Wichita, Kansas, which is also on the certicard but at some point it has a dealership tag on it from Cheyenne Wyoming. The old beast has been around the block a few times.

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I always wanted to know how dealers got these made? Some are just plastic but some are metal and had been chrome plated.
 
My 68 had a small Palmer Dodge palm tree sticker on the lower rear valance. I dont know if that was its new or used car sale. Does anyone know if there is a list out there of cars sold at Palmer Dodge?
 
MarPar said:
....I used it to re-attach the emblem on my Newport and it worked well.
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Dad would use the 3M emblem adhesive in the shop I recall when I was younger. Always did the trick. Even after fresh paint jobs.
Surprisingly I was able to find it again decades later when I needed to use it myself.
It was for one of my 'eh hem...(GM cars)

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redchihuahua2004 said:
My 67 Satellite had a foil decal on the top center of the rear bumper from the dealer. It was sold by Wiest Motor Co. in York, PA. My dad worked there as a mechanic in the 70's and then again in the 80's and 90's (it's name was changed to York Chrysler Plymouth during that time period). He's got a few nice examples of the decal on one of his toolboxes. I thought about getting it reproduced assuming the cost wouldn't be too much.

I don't have a photo of the decal at the moment, but here are a few dealer-related photos for your enjoyment.

View attachment 1570302
View attachment 1570300
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Located a dealer photo from the 80's when it was York Chrysler Plymouth - enjoy!
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Love and hate thing. I wasn’t keen on having holes drilled in the body only to be faster rust points and chipping paint. Friend of my father’s told the dealer when ordering his new car, he didn’t want the dealer’s decal on it, unless they paid him for advertising their dealer, lol. Some of the old emblems are cool and see why some want to preserve them as they are a part of the car’s history.
 
dbc105 said:
I always wanted to know how dealers got these made? Some are just plastic but some are metal and had been chrome plated.
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Probably by a small metal foundry. And depending on the quantity the dealer wanted many of the metal ones would start with a master pattern made of wax or wood. A green sand mould was made from the pattern and a zinc/lead alloy mix was poured into the back of the shallow mould. The flat surfaces would then be ground and chromed. The side surfaces which were more difficult to grind had a sand textured finish. High volume OEM parts were cast in a similar metal mix but pressure cast with back pins (stakes) to go through holes in the car body and be fixed with speed nuts. Also some trunk lock covers.

Plastic versions and other parts were and still are produced by injection molding ABS. One plastic than can be chrome plated e.g. plastic arm rests etc. Typically, the back side of the part is black. The higher the quantity the better the mould quality the better the part quality.
 
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