Wilwood Problem?

[HotRod777]

The 1966 Coronet had a manual front Wilwood kit on it when I bought it. I have 2 questions...
Is there any pad option that will quiet these brakes down? I looked at the pads, they are numbers as their most "street" pad yet these things, when cold, squeek/eek/creek SO loud when just barely moving (like when you creep in traffic) its crazy... and annoying. Once they heat up they get about 50% better but are still loud.
Secondly, it has a correct duel (big/little reservoir) master cylinder installed, however there is no proportioning valve plumbed in. The rear line runs straight back and the front hits a brass Tee and splits to each side. Is this a problem? The car stops "OK" but in my opinion it takes way more pedal pressure then it should... To me it seem like the Wilwood pads don't have enough friction. I've had multiple B bodies, all will stock 10" front manual drums and they all stopped much easier then this Wilwood kit. (side note, the rear drums have been rebuilt and are working fine)
Any thoughts/help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[Mike67]

Call Wilwood and they can give you the correct bore size for your set up. Make sure you have the numbers off of your calipers.

 

[steve340]

The brake pads may have been overheated.
First make sure the calipers clamp then release properly.
I would try skimming the disc rotors and replacing the pads. For a street car I do not burnish them in -I just fit them and drive normally while the pads bed in.
If your car is not boosted you do not need a proportioning valve.

 

[69L48Z27]

The prop valve is to make sure the rears are not locking up before the fronts, like a hold off valve. You don’t want the rear end locking up before the front. If the car does not lock up before the fronts then no prop valve is needed. This is regardless of power or manual.

As suggested call Wilwood for proper MC bore size and they can help with pad compounds.