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Wiring in Auxilary Indicator Lights

Ron H

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I'm looking to wire in a bank of four indicator lights below my dash for 1 & 2) Left & right turn signals 3) brake lights and 4) headlights. My question for electrical in the know folks is better or best ways to wire these in. What is recommended for location of splice in/connection points and grounding and if there are some issues I could encounter I may not be thinking about.
Appreciate any tips!
 
Ron, I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you trying to add a parallel set of lights to help detect problems? One of the issues you may encounter adding more lights is with the thermal flashers. Since they are dependent on current to heat up the element, adding additional lights could have an effect on their operation. Using LED lights might help keep the flasher circuits within tolerance.
As far as splicing goes, I prefer to redo the original style crimps, adding wires to them as opposed to using butt splice or the pinch type splices. The pinch type do not require the original wire to be cut but they tend to be a poor connection point and can be faulty. It can be a bit tricky trying to crimp two wires into a single crimp, but if you have the right tool and right sized crimp for double wires, it's not too difficult. Also, I usually try to add quick disconnect crimps on the added wires for items that I might want to remove or replace in the future.
You have to look at a schematic to look at how each circuit is grounded. On my 64, the signals were grounded through the steel of the light housing to the bumper. The headlights have a separate ground wire attached to the radiator frame and the brake lights were grounded to the light housing and on to the sheet metal. You can accidentally create a new, shorter path to ground and mess up the circuit design. I added ground wiring to all of these points to move away from sheetmetal grounding issues.
I think the best place to connect the additional wiring is to the wire harness bulkhead connectors where they connect to the harness outward to each of the lights. For the head lights, a relay might be a wise choice to limit the power load on the switch and interior wiring but this involves a bit more planning and work.
 
Appreciate your advice! I'm a fan of using blade or pin connectors when I can. I had in back of my mind I was maybe oversimplifying these connections thinking on how I would do this and just where I would make the connections creating or avoiding problems.
 
I recently ran across some blade connectors at my local hardware store in the specialty bins. They are called "high temp" connectors. These connectors are thicker and more sturdy. Aside from being high temp rated, they don't tend to easily spread and loosen when connecting and removing unlike the thin aluminum ones that usually come in the kits.
HT lug.jpg
 
Wish I would have run across these when I re-did my fuse block and new stereo install for a little added security. Thanks.
 
What I had been thinking of Glenwood is to tap into the wiring, that is...running wires from the indicator lights going thru the wall and making a splitter into or the near to the wall to the turn signals each side and headlights. I have a largely unused grommeted hole on the wall used for my tach wire to coil I'd want to use. For brake lights was thinking tapping in at the pedal light switch wire. For grounding as each light has two wires, mounting a ground bar under dash to connect all indicator light grounds (4 of them) there in one spot. My bulkhead is a cluster-F thanks to new engine harness and some modifications that were made there to stop further heat damage supposedly from amp wiring...I don't have a functional amp gauge I'm looking to rewire (another post on that).
Well...does this sound too simple, stupid, or...Thanks.
 
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63BelvedereFurySavoyV8A.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63BelvedereFurySavoyV8B.JPG

First I must ask why you are doing this.
Does your dash have operational turn signal indicators?
What is the purpose of an internal brake light indicator? Aside from knowing the pedal is depressed, it will not guarantee the rear lights are actually working.
Is the purpose of the headlight indicator to resemble something like a modern headlight "on" warning buzzer?
Her are a few considerations if you are going to proceed -
1. Your turn signal and brake light elements are the same in the rear so if you want individual aux lights you will need to tap into the front light elements for the turn signals to keep them separate. Tapping into the rear elements would allow you to use only two lights and see both turn signal and brakes. That could be done at the connector inside and behind the kick panel (Pin3, Dark Green).
2. For the headlights, if you just want to know that they are on, you will need to splice somewhere in the dash harness ahead of or at the beam selector switch input (Light Green) unless you also want separate high and low beam indicators. For items 1 & 2, see drawing "A".
3. The aux lights can be grounded locally under the dash. Just make sure you ground is solid.
4. As Glenwood mentioned, LED lights would be preferred because they will not put much load on existing circuits.
 
Logical question Shorthorse; part of this is for some sense of security and other is a nice to not need to have with availability to do it. I'm modifying a floor console that had indicator lights for headlights, low fluids, and door ajar. I've left my lights on several times over the years so thought a nice thing to remind me. The Fury dash has one tiny light indicating either left or right blinkers and can't find a flasher loud enough to hear them coupled with convert wind noise, louder exhaust now with headers post rebuild, and yeah...some hearing loss. And the brake light indicator is an idea since I've had issues with loss of them or where they were stuck on. I installed new rear wiring harness and all good; but the damn brake pedal has given me problems since disc brake conversion (a long-long story subject to earlier posts). I resorted to a return spring, but issue is deeper than this I need to explore further. So little more peace of mind to know lights are not stuck on when driving or parking. I appreciate your advice and will sift through the links you provided.
Thanks!
 
I understand.
The easiest way would be to tap into the rear harness connector behind the kick panel as I mentioned, Dark Green, Pin 3, left turn signal and brake element and Brown, Pin 6, right turn signal and brake element. That would keep your wiring nearest the dash and allow you to use only two indicators for both functions.
The headlight indicator would be spliced to the Light Green wire that goes from the headlight switch to the beam selector switch on the floor. Splicing at the beam selector switch should be the easiest. That would also keep the wiring localized.
Also, I have used LED indicators in several projects. A lot of the ones sold today are very bright. Too bright for the inside of a car at night. If you go that way, pay attention to their rated output.
 
Please pardon my dumbness Shorthorse, if I follow what you're describing, if I do the turn signals wiring at the harness I can use one indicator light for one (left blinker) and another indicator light for right if this makes sense? What I'm hoping to get here is a left indicator light blinking in the console light bank for left on far left of light bank I'm putting in and the far right indicator light for right.
 
There are no dumb questions. Yes, they will work that way, one right and one left. Also, by tapping into a taillight turn signal and break light element, you are basically duplicating the taillights on your console. Each indicator right/left will show you the turn element flashing as well as when the brakes are applied. They will react the same as the elements in the taillights.
 
No, you've got it. Two indicators, one right, one left. Since they are spliced into the rear turn/brake element, they will duplicate the rear turn and brake functions per light.

The headlight connection I showed will only tell you if the headlights are on. It will not tell you if you left just the parking lights on. If you want that function (headlights and/or parking lights), splice the headlight indicator into the Black, pin 2 of the rear harness. Now that indicator will show if any lights are left on except the interior lights. That's a whole different deal.
Control Panel ll.JPG
 
Thanks much again for your advice! I'll let you know what sort of luck I have on this odd project.
 
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