Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
Also, Doesn't the nose go into a pocket of the bell house. Maybe there is sufficient clearance for you to mill off the mount. Don't know.
Wrong starter nose on my 66 Hemi satellite
- Thread starter AR67GTX
- Start date
George - the nose piece is stamped 3924. I assume it’s properly a nose intended for a 67-69 Hemi 172 tooth flywheel. But most places advertise these starters with the longer nose as serviceable for 66-69 Hemi engines. And they will mesh and turn over a 66 but they don’t fully mate with the ring gear on a 66 flywheel. The starter seats on the bell-housing and the nose protrudes inside. There’s plenty of clearance inside the bell housing bulge for the nose to be milled and seated .010” deeper.
Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
Thank you. Yes 3924 is the IPM part. I have one of those starter noses too. By chance do you think you have original bolts for the starter and what length and Head markings do they have?
Also, despite barrel # which is part number for starter when it was OEM, if the rebuilder used the correct field winding to make it hemi. Hemi starters are series HT field. (2 series fields in parallel). The other starters were compound, 3 in series with 1 parallel field.
Also, despite barrel # which is part number for starter when it was OEM, if the rebuilder used the correct field winding to make it hemi. Hemi starters are series HT field. (2 series fields in parallel). The other starters were compound, 3 in series with 1 parallel field.
George, it’s a 000 case on it so my understanding is that case translates to a 6 cylinder direct drive starter. So it appears to be a Frankenstein starter most likely from a rebuilder. Not great but it does spin the motor over just fine and work flawlessly. There is a lot on my car that isn’t correct or original. The drive gear does have some wear at the front so I may scout around and see if clutch/gear replacements are available. Not sure about the bolts - they have different head markings and head size so I doubt they are original. More pictures
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Can you confirm the 3924 nose is the 67-length nose piece? My solenoid was loose on the starter so it and the drive gear probably danced around a little when engaged. But the wear pattern on the ring gear was definitely showing less than full meshing.
Do you know the part number for the 67 Starter drive/clutch piece? I believe it’s a 10 tooth gear?
Do you know the part number for the 67 Starter drive/clutch piece? I believe it’s a 10 tooth gear?
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Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
The Case should have more #s. 1889100 or 1889200. My understanding is the rebuilder would disassemble for remanufacture like alternators, so they did not care about parts number and matching parts. Probably some slant 6 with a hemi barrel out there. So they could have installed correct field into barrel for hemi. You need to look inside to confirm, but like you say it works fine so leave alone. Last time I compared them the 3924 was 67 up. The gear drive is common to all direct drive of this vintage. Part # 2642506
Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
Bolts were different, one threads into Bell, other into starter. Would be interested to know.
Yes, it’s the 100 case, 1889100. I put too many zeros from memory.
My phone was dead when I went out to the garage this morning but I’ll get a picture of the bolts this afternoon.
One of mine threads into the starter or bell-housing - can’t remember which off hand. Probably into the starter like you said. The other doesn’t thread into neither but has a bolt nut on the other end. I haven’t looked at it closely since removal - maybe it’s too small and slides past the threads. I’ll see.
After looking at NOS drives on EBay they don’t look any different than mine on the end so I may just leave it alone as long as it works.
Thanks for the help.
My phone was dead when I went out to the garage this morning but I’ll get a picture of the bolts this afternoon.
One of mine threads into the starter or bell-housing - can’t remember which off hand. Probably into the starter like you said. The other doesn’t thread into neither but has a bolt nut on the other end. I haven’t looked at it closely since removal - maybe it’s too small and slides past the threads. I’ll see.
After looking at NOS drives on EBay they don’t look any different than mine on the end so I may just leave it alone as long as it works.
Thanks for the help.
Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
The bolt going into starter is 7/16 fine thread. Into bell is 7/16" course. The difference is subtle and hard to tell by sight. Need to take measurements side by side to tell difference, other than casting #.
My memory must be failing me. I thought the longer bolt was nutted but there’s no nut in the sack with them so apparently I remember wrong. One bolt (the upper bolt) threads from the starter into the bell housing and the other (the lower bolt) threads into the starter from the bell housing side it looks like. I don’t have the starter nose here to confirm the lower bolt but in the photo of the starter nose end I posted above it looks like the upper bolt in the nose is unthreaded and the lower hole in the nose is threaded. Both of mine look coarse thread but I’m sure the short one is not OEM and probably not the other one either.
When I get the nose back I’ll probably mock it up to the bell housing and bolts that aren’t optimum, replace. I assume shoulder bolts were used where their passage wasn’t threaded.
When I get the nose back I’ll probably mock it up to the bell housing and bolts that aren’t optimum, replace. I assume shoulder bolts were used where their passage wasn’t threaded.
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Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
Yep check your nose, they are fine thread, so a course for the nose is not correct.
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