Young, Newbie, and an Ignition problem.. with a twist

[DetSon]

"calm disposition" hahahah. That generally lasts for about an hour.

Ignition switch was one of the first things I switched. I still can't figure out why it didn't work before I did the amp bypass but it did after. I need to recheck if the power switches to the yellow wire now that I have it cranking. I will have time later to figure it all out.
Where I'm at now:
Everything is new from battery cable's to and through bulkhead and to starter/starter relay. Correctly executed amp bypass. MSD 6AL box to new coil to new pickup/reluctor. I get one spark at the #1 plug then nothing else.

In the new distributor I've noticed a definite difference in quality of the parts and fitment inside. I'm really hopeful it was a bad pickup/pickup fitment or just something with the cap/rotor in general. It was hard to diagnose the distributor with nothing to gauge it next too. I have to check but I think the rotor I have isn't correct.
24 hours and hopefully my hairs blowing in the wind.

 

[kb67mopar]

it sounds like you might have had too much shaft play in the old distributor which allowed that tab to get bent.

The one spark issue sounds to me like you get power to the coil on run but not during start. So when the points close you get the discharge of the coil but then no more since there is no more current. I would check that you get power to the coil during cranking. If you have to run jumper wires to power the coil and try starting the car, if it starts this is your issue.

 

[DetSon]

When a backfire becomes a positive you know your in trouble.

Dropped a new distributor in tonight. Brought the motor to TDC and the old rotor was pointing right at #1. Plopped the new one in, transferred the wires and no start. I had strong spark off the coil plug but when I went to check at the number one cylinder wire, HUGE backfire. So I bring it back to TDC and the rotors back at "#1" that I just recently reset, timing mark was at 0. I read online and switched the polarity on the msd box to the pickup and nothing. Just cranking. It feels like there's a kill switch I don't know about.
So on Sunday I'm going to the local show and I'm going to contract the best Mopar mechanic I can find. The white flag has flown

The only bright spot was when I went around to the back of the car for some reason and couldn't get over the two identical holes in the car cover right under the rear bumper... Ahhh The back fire... It got a "I want to cry, laugh" out of me.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Where in the world are you? Mich or va? Cause if you're in va, i may be able to help. Depending on where in va.
At this point it seems like you either bave wires crossed or something. Good spark from coil and not at plugs? Then something inbetween is not right. Cap rotor or wires.

 

[DetSon]

I'm in northern Virginia.

I feel like I've got something crossed with the start/run circuit. That's why I'm only getting initial spark.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I'm in northern Virginia.

I feel like I've got something crossed with the start/run circuit. That's why I'm only getting initial spark.

Msd module should eliminate that. The factory setup had the start circuit that ran full 12 volts to coil on start up, and once started and the key is in the run position, current is directed through the balast resistor. Dropping voltage at coil to around 9 volts.
Do you have a test light? Put it on the coil positive terminal. See if you lose voltage when cranking or with key in run position.
And im in baltimore. Not sure how far that is from your exact location, but its better than mich. If nots not more than a couple hours drive i would be willing to come give you a hand if you are desperate.

 

[DetSon]

Well I have both of the original wires that would go to the ballast resistor tied into the red wire on the msd. I've read that's couple people tied three wires into that red wire, the third being from the alternator I believe. But that shouldn't make a difference right because I'm running off the battery? Jumping from my battery to the coil won't help me because my problem is after the coil correct?
I'm going to check on the coil with a meter and see what happens. If I don't find anything there I may reach out and be extremely grateful. I'm on my way to a wedding (sucks) but I will know tomorrow what the verdict is.

Thanks again everyone for your info.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

6al should have power and ground. Coil positive and negative. A wire to connect to key on battery voltage and a hookup to the distributor. If all that is right, you should have spark.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

msd module should eliminate that. The factory setup had the start circuit that ran full 12 volts to coil on start up, and once started and the key is in the run position, current is directed through the balast resistor. Dropping voltage at coil to around 9 volts.
Do you have a test light? Put it on the coil positive terminal. See if you lose voltage when cranking or with key in run position.
And im in baltimore. Not sure how far that is from your exact location, but its better than mich. If nots not more than a couple hours drive i would be willing to come give you a hand if you are desperate.

disregard this. Do not put test light to coil. My bad info. This will screw things up.