440 Swap / mounts,headers?

[ChargerSE72]

Hey,guys...My Charger now has a 318/904...looking to drop a 440 / 727 combo in my 72 SE...heard this should be easier than the A-Body swap. Can i just buy mounts for the block and drop in,(leave factory K-frame and mounts) or am i just wishing it was that easy?? Are headers going to be a pain? Heard of issues with kickdown linkage...What do i need to do?
Sorry to sound so stupid, but this ain't no chebby, so i need a little help here....Thanks in advance for all the info !!!!!!

:sSig_thanks:

 

[69 Runner]

Haven't owned one that year, but on earlier B bodies the swap is so simple it hurts. Same trans mount, same motor mounts (the rubber part). You need the correct engine plates (from block to rubber insulator) exhaust, maybe radiator (different inlet and outlet) and stretch the distributor and coil wires.

 

[Revhendo]

Yep, block mounts radiator, modify the wiring. Also consider the accessory brackets for the alternator, and P/S pump, throttle bracket and kickdown. Slip yoke for the trans, and what rear end you have. But yep, it's and easy swap.

 

[ChargerSE72]

The next thing is this: saw a thread a while back on the different harmonic balancers on the 440s, i have one with a thick balancer and one with a skinny balancer....both are from motorhomes. Are one of these better to use than the other?
Thanks for the help :yes:

 

[69 Runner]

depends on what you're planning on doing with it. Dick Landy says a cast crank 440 is good to go unless you want to push it beyond 6000-6500rpm. Thing is, a 440 isn't gonna make power there without having some hogged out heads. So with that being the case, you'd probably not be running a cast crank anyway.

 

[Patrick]

This is a simple swap the engine mounts are the same as is the trans mount, You will need the 727 front drive shaft yoke, and you'll have to shorten the drive shaft. Common trans behind a 318 is a 904 it has a square pan the 727 has a bump out on the pan. I've found on my B body cars that Summit and headman fit good. If you have a colume shifter you will need to modify the kick down piece that goes to the frame. All is takes is to cut 4" out of it. With two 3/16x1" pieces of metal 4" long. Weld them to one end of the piece you cut out Then so your pieces will be pointing down when installed weld it between the two pieces you cut the piece out of. I did that in 81 to my sons 72 and its never caused trouble.

 

[ChargerSE72]

It's a slapstick car, any linkage problems with that?
And it's gonna be a street car, i'll probably over-rev it just having fun. Built other big blocks (olds, chevy), with no problems here....mainly burn-outs, stupid stuff like that.....small town, big fun. Gonna be a almost daily driver, like it is now...only faster!!
Keep the wisdom coming....thanks for the help, all :yes:

 

[Patrick]

Loker has a kick down cable that does away with the piece going to the frame. Also if your lucky enough to have the one piece 727 kick down rod, you don't need the frame piece. No matter what be sure you have the kick down hooked up and adjusted right. Mopars don't have a vacum modulator to control presser. Its controlled by the kick down linkage, without it you'll burn up the trans in a heart beat. Mancini has the cable so does Summit.

 

[69 Runner]

True. The Lokar cable is a pretty good piece to use. Got one on my Duster. And without a kickdown you will burn the trans....unless it has a full manual valve body

 

[jsmopar7203]

mine dropped in no problem with the exception of the drive shaft my engine and headers came out of a 67 coronet

 

[ChargerSE72]

Loker has a kick down cable that does away with the piece going to the frame. Also if your lucky enough to have the one piece 727 kick down rod, you don't need the frame piece. No matter what be sure you have the kick down hooked up and adjusted right. Mopars don't have a vacum modulator to control presser. Its controlled by the kick down linkage, without it you'll burn up the trans in a heart beat. Mancini has the cable so does Summit.

That's what i need, didn't know to much about these trannys....but looked and found that both 727s have the one piece rod on them, so i guess thats good then?
69 runner, still don't know which of these motors to use...which one is cast, steel, forged, or what?? I think the thin balancer is cast? Will someone fill me in on these motors, please? And thanks for all the help...
BTW,on both the 727s i have, there are two humps on the tail with what looks like eyelets for something, will i be able to use these? Pardon my ignorance, just want to be sure before i start pulling parts...

 

[evanbrendel]

dont the ballencers say on the back steel or cast?

 

[69 Runner]

The balancer should say on it for cast crank. Generally the cast balancer is thicker than the forged one. They are only about an inch thick (probably a bit more, but I've never measured one). As long as you're not planning on turning a 440 over 6000-6500 (a well built motor) then a cast crank will be fine. Stock heads won't make power over that on a 440 anyway. 440s prior to 72 were forged. First year 400s were forged. 383s were forged. All are excellent and you can't make a bad choice. But remember, it really doesn't cost more to build a 440 (if you have one) than to build a 383 or 400.

Those two holes on the bottom of the tail housing (clocked at around 7:00) are for a bracket used with the factory floor shifters.

 

[ChargerSE72]

OK, how about this. How much can these blocks be safely bored? And can i stroke this motor or would it be too expensive?
The tabs on the trans are actually at 12 o'clock, still ok?


Aaaaaaaaand go......................thanks guys!! :grin:

 

[69 Runner]

Any big block can be stroked, although I wouldn't want to do an old 350BB. There are lots of off the shelf stroker pieces for 400s and 440s.

Can you post a pic of the trans?

 

[ChargerSE72]

Yes, here are some pics., i also got some of both balancers and motors...excuse the mess, this is where i store all my messy stuff at the shop...the orange intake is from a 383

 

[69 Runner]

I believe that motor will be a cast crank motor. Has the passenger's side water pump exit, and you can see the front of the balancer is asymmetrical (second pic of the balancer)

The trans? Beats me. Has to be some oddball motorhome thing, and I'm not sure it will fit in your car. The good new is you might just be able to swap the tail housings with a regular one and be good to go.

 

[ChargerSE72]

I was thinking the same thing...or maybe just grinding them off? Who knows...Those are the two 440s i have to work with, just wanted to use the best choice in this car cause i'm probably gonna keep it for a while and have some fun. Thanks for the help 69runner, i really appreciate it and look forward to seeing what you have to say every time i get on here. Thanks to EVERYONE for their help here, getting ready to TEAR DOWN and have some fun....But keep the comments coming!!!

:woohoo:

 

[69 Runner]

Bet if you put a "wanted" in the parts wanted section someone can fix you up with a tail housing

 

[ChargerSE72]

Allright, just to be clear...there are two motors in the pics, first pic has skinny balancer, second has thick one....so which one is cast again?
And i will keep an eye out for the tailshaft housing, after my buddy goes through the trans....is a manual valve body a hassle or a plus?? Any trans tricks i should be aware of? Thanks, guys........

lane: