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440 too hot -tried EVERYTHING!

jerry

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Just got car together and went for drive and car heated up to 230 degrees.
Put in new tstat,new 8 blade pump (have non ac pulley), Pressure checked, jacked up front to burp system, and NO LUCK.
This is a 68 Coronet w/ manual trans. NEW radiator, fresh stock motor, timing in spec. No sludge or sediment in pump housing. Good temp gauge.
It seems like coolant is not flowing. Have run with cap off numerous times.
Stock fan (4 blade).
Can the heater box circuit be holding air and causing bubble at pump?
PLEASE HELP
Thanks
 
Are you running a fan shroud? I didn't have mine on for a couple months when I first got it together and it would get to 220+ in traffic. With the shroud in place it maybe gets to 200 at most.
 
Try another T-Stat or do a check on the stove top in the house in a pot of boilng water.Some of the new ones are garbage.
 
That 4 blade fan would be in the trash can quick if it was mine. The best setup I've found is the HD A/C setup with the fan clutch, HD 7 blade fan, shroud and 26" 3 row A/C big block radiator. I also run a 180 Stat. Mine runs fine even in the summer.
 
NEW DOES NOT MEAN GOOD !......i agree with the 180 t-stat. fan shroud is a must. are you SUREEEEEE the new rad aint clogged someplace???? 210 is normal running temp but if ya got it all hopped up it just might run hotter.

put an stant thermostat in it. are you going on the stock gauge??? that might be giving a bad reading

fill the rad up to about 1 1/4 inches from the top.....dont fill it to the neck. drive it around for a while and see if it boils over.

if it is boiling over , remove the t-stat and run like that for a while and observe.
 
did the car overheat before the new stat? simple question...stat in correct or upside down? Is the new stat opening? Car overheat down the road or at idle/traffic?

If the car doesn't overheat running at 45 to 60 mph then there is a problem with coolant flow at idle/traffic/low rpm. Does the lower hose have a spring in it ? A shroud will not correct overheating at highway speeds but helps with low rpm situations. If not overheating down the road the rad is doing it's job and again , air flow and water circulation would be the issue at low rpm. If overheating at higher rpms, the rad may be suspect..or coolant flow...ie waterpump,air lock,compressed hose.
 
Change the thermostat I had a brand new Mr Gasket 180 stick on me.
 
That 4 blade fan would be in the trash can quick if it was mine. The best setup I've found is the HD A/C setup with the fan clutch, HD 7 blade fan, shroud and 26" 3 row A/C big block radiator. I also run a 180 Stat. Mine runs fine even in the summer.

I agree with hemmirunner. I had this exact setup. Get rid of that 4 blade for starters. My car cooled down when I switched my fan.
 
Coolant should be flowing really good once it's 180 and higher and if it ain't, look at seeing if the stat is working. I always 'cook' mine on the stove first to see if it'll work.
 
Fan blades should be an inch inside shroud,I use a 7 blade steel clutch fan and that was the only combination ,along with a champion alum radiator, that cooled My 498 stroker all the time.Shroud,clutch fan...best combo I've used.
 
Some of us don't have room for a clutch fan, that would be the best. My 493 ran hot during it's break in period. You should follow all the advice here as much as you can. I run a flex fan 4 blade 18" and an electric pusher set for 220 for traffic and a champion 26" 3 row. It has hit 220 in stop and go traffic. I will be looking for a shroud soon to prepare for summer, junk yard runs are fun anyway :) typically I run 180° all day cruising.

Get a catch can, and most of all make sure the LOWER HOSE IS NOT COLLAPSING! very common on pump housings that are on the drivers side.
 
Thank you all. Let's see, do have shroud, clutch fan did not fit with radiator, and heats up whether sitting still or at 45 mph.
I keep thinking air pocket. Can you put the heater hoses on backwards?
Will try again tonite
 
I'd double check the timing too like HEMI-ITIS said. I had heat problems because I was not running enough advance for the cam overlap I had. Too much fuel was burning in the headers and heating everything up. Once I got it as advanced as it needed to be the thing cooled right down.
 
I'd double check the timing too like HEMI-ITIS said. I had heat problems because I was not running enough advance for the cam overlap I had. Too much fuel was burning in the headers and heating everything up. Once I got it as advanced as it needed to be the thing cooled right down.
i had exact same prob with my 68 charger.if you are not sure about the stat testing and such,pull it out and check the water flow.
 
Thank you all. Let's see, do have shroud, clutch fan did not fit with radiator, and heats up whether sitting still or at 45 mph.
I keep thinking air pocket. Can you put the heater hoses on backwards?
Will try again tonite


looks like you have all the parts there....sounds like the lower hose is probably collapsing or the timing is a bit retarded
 
is your return hose (to radiator) hard as a rock when you are overheating? if so, you water pump could be pushing more volume than your radiator can cool down. I had this problem on my roadrunner. swapped in an OE water pump and never had a heating problem since.
 
Backwards htr. hoses will only show in cold weather. Are you sure sending unit is sending correct to gauge? At 230 you shouldn't even be able touch a hose with ur hand. It's not trying to spit water out of overflow?
 
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