IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!! but has an issue......

[69 Runner]

Ok. My Duster ("IT") has been idle for many months, partly because I decided to rip all the hacked up wiring out of it and replace it with new.

Today, after (probably) 7 months slumber it crackled to life, but not without an issue. (first, a short rant)

The car was an original column auto. And when the B&M shifter was installed in the floor, the builder (and I use that term really loosely) left the auto column in place. So first on the agenda today was to install a floor shift column I had previously purchased. Well guess what. This '73 column is TO SHORT to work in my '72. Don't know why that is, but it definitely is.

So I remove the "new" column and start reinstalling the old one. I get everything buttoned up and try to fire that muther up.

(I know you've been patiently waiting, so here's the problem)

The problem is it won't fire the motor until I start to release the key. I'm using an MSD 6a with a Mopar electronic distributor triggering the MSD. Main power for the MSD is connected to the battery. Switched power is coming off a switched lug in my fuse box. Is it simply the ignition switch (which previously didn't have this problem)?

At this point I'm much to tired for independent thought. So let's hear your thoughts on the matter.

:HappyNewYear:

 

[moparstuart]

On the column those thing are made to collaspe in an accident . , So lot of times they are short because they have collasped . I have seen it alot . They look normal but have collapsed internally .

hollander interchange shows 71-73 floor shift , but that there is a manual and power box columns are different ?

 

[74sundance]

Sounds like it's the ignition switch....I have a 1974 Plymouth Satellite factory 318 I tried the column swap from a 74 Satellite factory 400 car no go.One thing I did notice is the the 318 column has a solid tube, top to bottom and the 400 column has diamond shaped holes punched in it,not sure why they did this..I guess the holes are due to the big block being closer to the column.(the holes vent heat away).And the length of the column is different because the K-frames are different from big to small block.Just a guess though??

 

[69 Runner]

That was my first thought, but it hasn't been collapsed.

 

[69 Runner]

One other thing about the length of the new column. It isn't just the shaft is shorter, but the distance from the top of the column to the firewall plate is different as well.

course that has little to do with the starting problem

 

[moparker]

Manual steering columns are different legths than power. Manual is shorter.

 

[khryslerkid]

I hate that when the car fires when you release the key. If your in a jam you can jump the contacts on the starter switch located on driver's side inner fender. (Use a jumper wire that will stay connected) Just the hot and I think the yellow (ignition). Crank it with the key. Your problem is either a bad steering column ground, bad ground or the switch.

Now you mentioned you installed a MSD6. Friend of mine had the same problem. We used the MSD web site to trouble shoot the MSD6 to make sure we had power where you suppose too. He had it wired wrong.

 

[69 Runner]

Manual steering columns are different legths than power. Manual is shorter.

You have it backwards. The manual column is LONGER than the power one.


The duster has had the 6A on it since before I bought it. I've just been trying to straighten out all the :rant::censored:
up wiring that had been done....such as it's power being connected directly to the alternator.....which the instructions say DON'T DO THIS.

As is I've replaced the tail light, dash, and main engine harness, and will be replacing the others as well due to more cut wires (currently there is no wire from the neutral safety switch to the starter relay, so I've added a "jumper")

Could be a ground on the column, cause there currently isn't a ground wire on the column itself.

 

[khryslerkid]

Sounds like fun. Nothing like figuring out someone elses popworm:can't find the censored smilie), ups. You seem to have some patience and thats what it takes. I always say go after the simplest thing first.

 

[69 Runner]

Not patience left with this. I've done the front and rear suspension, the exhaust, removed the electric fuel pump from UNDER THE HOOD :black_eye: and installed a mechanical with a (custom bent by ME) fuel line, replaced the cheesy radiator, electric fan and flex fan with a correct radiator, fan, clutch, and shroud, ditched the bass boat steering wheel, put correct seat belts back in, new seat covers, properly mounted the stereo, and on and on and on.......

gonna be really nice when (and IF) I'm done with it

 

[72 Charger SE]

Oh the joy of working on a car that someone else "worked" on. Reminds me of my 2nd Charger, where the only things done right the PO had receipts to prove he didn't do himself. (I was most angry about him cutting the front off an auto shift center console to move it forward because he had the wrong linkage to hook the shifter to the transmission - too short.)

 

[Meep-Meep]

What you're going through is what I just got finished with on my Ranchero - Un @#$%^& - ing someone elses restoration job.

Anyway, I believe your car has the sliding ignition switch? Could it be out of alignment? If the plunger goes too far in it might loose the connection. Check the IGN terminals with an ohm meter while someone cranks the key (power disconnected). After that check for voltage at the IGN terminal and the usual places. I don't think the MSD is the issue, but you can always bypass it and get it out of the picture.

 

[scotts74birds]

I'm banging my head here FOR you! I'm a sparky by trade and have tried to make that and electrical troubleshooting one of my main contributions here. Thing is, I could spend 4 hours online with you, and not accomplish a thing. 1 hour in your driveway, and we would be on the path! 2 hours and we'd be double checking to make sure that was it! 3 hours and we'd be done and 6 beers into a 12 pack!

 

[daredevil]

Not patience left with this. I've done the front and rear suspension, the exhaust, removed the electric fuel pump from UNDER THE HOOD :black_eye: and installed a mechanical with a (custom bent by ME) fuel line, replaced the cheesy radiator, electric fan and flex fan with a correct radiator, fan, clutch, and shroud, ditched the bass boat steering wheel, put correct seat belts back in, new seat covers, properly mounted the stereo, and on and on and on.......

gonna be really nice when (and IF) I'm done with it

Dang the Runner wouldnt have been much more work.

 

[69 Runner]

SLIDING ignition switch? It's just an A body column with the switch in the column.

I finished bolting the column in today and added the ground wire that should have been there but wasn't. I also made good grounds for the tach and radio which were on a clip lead yesterday. It still seems to be only firing when I release the key and it begins to return to "RUN" from "START". The good thing is it fires so easily (at least for the moment) it is almost worth leaving till I can find the correct floor shift column for it.

 

[Meep-Meep]

SLIDING ignition switch? It's just an A body column with the switch in the column.

I finished bolting the column in today and added the ground wire that should have been there but wasn't. I also made good grounds for the tach and radio which were on a clip lead yesterday. It still seems to be only firing when I release the key and it begins to return to "RUN" from "START". The good thing is it fires so easily (at least for the moment) it is almost worth leaving till I can find the correct floor shift column for it.

I don't remember how the late A body IGN switch is but most cars of the era have the switch on the column far from the key lock and is actuated by a metal rod. Sliding switch wasn't very clear but rather a linerar actuating type as opposed to the typical rotary one found in the 60's cars. Also, don't rule out the possibility of a bad IGN switch. The one in my 69 RR was bad when I tested it.

 

[Charg68]

I had this, except mine would only fire and run with the key switch held on start,hard on the starter.As soon as you let go it would quit.I changed the ignition switch and everything was fine.

 

[mr.belvedere]

did you change anything to do with the ballast resistor wiring?

 

[69 Runner]

I replaced the main engine harness so yes, the ballast resistor wiring was changed.

HOWEVER, the ignition isn't tied in to the main harness. The distributor and coil connect directly to the MSD, which gets it's trigger from the distributor. main power to the MSD is connected to the battery. Switched power comes from the fuse box, along with the tach power, and power for the electric choke.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Is the small red wire that turns on the MSD getting power during cranking? Get the volt meter out.