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plumbing for fuel injection - what brands do i avoid?

mferraro76

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Well, i pulled the trigger on a FI setup, so now i need to plumb it. I have most of the components picked out but any suggestions on the lines?

I plan to run at the recommeded 45-50 psi, wih a return line. I am not racing, most of the lines will be 3/8 or 6AN.

Fittings are adding up, is there a huge difference between earls, russel, aeroquip and the summit/jegs brand?

Lastly, the stainless braided line - seems the easiest to install, again do i spend a few extra bucks on the earls or russel or is the summit/jegs brand quality enough?

Do i fuss with hard lines?
 
I'm cheap. I've done injection conversions in the past and I always ran just plain old steel 3/8 line with standard inverted flare fittings. They'll hold well over 100 PSI. Hell, steel brake lines hold over 2K PSI.
 
Yeah, RustyRatrod is correct BUT I know someone is going to "jump in" and say you need this size line etc. why? (cuz I did last year...LOL)
Well, I too "fell" under that spell. I changed my 383 car 70 Bee to a 5/16" line for the 70 Hemi dual quad bucause "the book says so"
But: the fuel line coming out of the pump to the carbs on a Hemi is 3/8"
You should be OK.
 
I can only speak from my SRT4 neon, in take connection went with stainless steel hose -6an and ran the summit brand black braided hose cheaper version of the erals one. Never had issues with -6an from pump to injectors and back. My set up was with 60-1 turbo with 1000cc injectors. I like the black braid due to less weight over stainless and just as strong.
 
i actually ran the hard line in 3/8 inch from the tank but because it has the nipple fittings, i was thinking i would use that as the return line and plumb some new hose from the pump to the regulator.

i am new to all the fittings, it looks like certain fittings can only be used with certain hoses, some have o-rings, some dont, a more knowledgeable source suggested i stay with earls or russel and not mix russell fittings with summit fittings, etc.

i can tell you that i think i am ok with the 6an, i am not racing, it is small block, maybe with SC later, so at most i would push 500hp. the pump is a bosch 044, with my set up it recommends 45psi but can be set to 90 psi with nitrous (which i will not be doing) or forced injection (maybe in the future).

The other issue is running the line - i don't have much choice as the stock line uses up all the convenient space down passenger side. so whatever i use will have to be a little more versitile - the hard line might be difficult for me to work in and out of the few holes i have left.
 
I had the Bosch 040 intank pump. They are great pumps. The routing is the reason I went to the black braid that way you can route is the way you want adjust use rubber isolated clamps. I'd just make sure you get the pump rewire I think painless has one where your voltage come off the alternator and you won't get any voltage drops.
 
I had the Bosch 040 intank pump. They are great pumps. The routing is the reason I went to the black braid that way you can route is the way you want adjust use rubber isolated clamps. I'd just make sure you get the pump rewire I think painless has one where your voltage come off the alternator and you won't get any voltage drops.

The pump is actually run off the ECM, so i need to run a 16ga wire from the harness to the pump. I have a 100A alternator, so i should have plenty of current for everything. I will probably run the wire in the factory chassis harness and have it go through the grommet with the fuel gauge wire.

I really only see one place i will run into trouble - where the supports are for the front seat. they come all the way out to the rocker and the small space that exists is already taken up by the stock line. A braided line is a lot thicker so it would hang down a bit. I was thinking of running it up the sub frame connector and then trying to fish a line through the front crossmember - and then parallel to the stock line once beyond that. but that is assuming i can weave it in and out of the crossmember.

i think i have come up with an assortment of fittings - some earls, some summit and some russel - that will work. i am leaning towards the summit stainless braided hose, as it is the cheapest. anyone know a reason to avoid the summit hose and fittings?

any idea why the same fitting is different prices, even by the same manufacturer?
 
I know on my 72 sat I ran the fuel line and mounted it to the side of the frame rails. Stainless is a bit cheaper but look at the summit brand black braid might be the same price maybe cheaper. All the rewire kit does is runs off the alt. through a relay for constant volts regardless of what amp the alt is. On my SRT I had to run this due to factory lowering volts to the pump at higher rpm didn't make any sense.
 
Use Aeroquip socketless hose, much easier to use and the fittings just push on.
 
any idea if i can use the above mention lines and just clamp them onto the hard lines i bought from right stuff?

i need to run an additional line - and it looks like if i go with hose, it will be either 1/2" or 9/16". i think there is too much weaving for me to use hard lines. i am out of room just inside the rocker, i have the stock line there (which i plan to use as the return line). any suggestions on where to route the additional line? am i going to be driling through the crossmember?
 
Socketless hose is the absolute easiest to use, hands down. You have -6an one side and it's barbed on the other which is pushed into the hose and if ya screw up, you gotta cut the hose to get the fitting out cause those barbs wont let go. I'm using the Aeroquip stuff on my ride and love it. The hose can be had for 3 bucks a foot on ebay and the fittings are pretty cheap also. You can flare the hard lines (-an) to then go to the hose, I would not rely on just hose clamp....-6 tube nut/sleeve for the hard line, -6an coupler, -6an socketless fitting on the hose and you now have a line that is leak proof and will last a very long time.
 
I've been doing homework on installing an MSD Atomic EFI (throttle-body style with return fuel line) in my Coronet.

Aeromotive seems to have the best propaganda. I'm gonna use a mix of Aeromotive, SummitRacing, and TrickFlow parts. You can save a few bucks here and there.

I found this link sometime back and is has a good overview with pictures on plumbing a fuel system. Hope it helps:

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/1007rc_aeromotive_stealth_fuel_system/


An idea I stole from the article is to draw out the entire fuel system (lines, connections, filters, tank, etc.). I've gone over my sketch for a few days now and counted every item and added it to my shopping cart. I think my setup will work. Now I just gotta work up the courage and part with the funds.



watermelon
 
Look at tanksinc.com as they have an intank pump (walbro 255 with sump) and you cant beat the price.
 
I did look at tanks inc, but the info i have been reading recommends a turbine pump for the fule injection, especially if you use PWM.

when i have 450 bucks to blow, i may go this route:

http://hotrodcitygarage.com/mopartanks.html

as for now, i plan to follow 5.7 hemi's advice and flare the hard line, run tube nut/sleeve and some AN hose with no return line. i just can't find a nice clean place to put the return line.

Russell seems to have a pretty good selection and i can find all the parts at summit - so probably just use thier stuff.
 
Do i need a special tool to do the AN fittings on the SS lines or will any basic flare tool work? I see flare tools that do only AN ranging from $50 - $200. Some of the other flare tools say "up to 45 deg" so i would like some input on this.

another concern: most of the tools i've looked at specifically say "not for use on stainless steel." what do i do?

Thanks
 
That's why I went with the black braided hose. Just cut with a razor blade and push on the butter fitting and screw in the inside with two sets of wrenches. No special tools required. Just my .02
 
i wish i thought ahead but i already have the brand new SS line installed. i'd hate to rip it out and throw it away
 
I know what you mean I did the ss on my 72 the first time and tore up my fingers. After my neon and the black braid no turning back plus my fingers thanked me lol
 
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