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Sniper fuel system planning and install - show your’s, recommends?

I'll throw out a few opinions. I prefer front mount return style regulator.

I like a combination of hard lines and a/n lines. And for a/n lines I will only use teflon. Rubber can deteriorate and also have a fuel vapor smell after shutdown.

Also, I would use a baffled tank rather than the direct replacement sender setup. Hydramat is very neat but still needs to be touching -some- fuel to work. Can't imagine this wouldn't ever have a starvation issue with a flat as a pancake B-body tank.
 
Don't use a Holley pump. Buy DeatschWerks in tank pump. They're better and much quieter.

https://deatschwerks.com/

Run the existing steel hard line and Earls EFI hose return. Don't deadhead.

Use a high pressure fuel regulator.

Buy the additional progressive throttle link unless you like that full throttle feeling every time you leave from a stop.

Don't buy the expensive rebranded Holley EFI conversion tank. Buy the one from Tanks Inc. same thing much cheaper.

Do expect to wait for the pump to prime and the electronics to boot up every start.

Don't expect to get Holley tech support to help solve your problems.

Why deatschwerks? Holley pumps are Walbro and they seem to have a good reputation. When I look at deatschwerks and try to find the equivalent 255lph pump most seem to only have a 5/16 outlet and are described as specific import car use. Also I need the rest of the pick up so I think it would be easiest to just order the Holley or tanks inc one etc…?
Also the sniper unit is regulated at the throttle body and they tell you to not use a a separate regulator prior to the throttle body…. I can envision why too. If you regulate down the 58.5 psi before the throttle body you could risk too low a pressure when you go sudden WOT from the lag between regulators from the instantaneous lag in pressure until the regulators re-adjust…? This is why they also say to Not use the LS filter/regulator return combo back near the tank.
 
^ That makes sense if it has a regulator in the throttle body. I was just speaking in general terms.

(regulated up front whether through a regulator or internal regulator is more consistent fuel pressure than regulated at the rear as rear mounted regulator can't account for pressure drop over the feed line and fittings)
 
I replaced my super loud Walbro pump with an exact match from DeatschWerks. It's made in Oklahoma City USA. Their pump has a impeller vs the Holley vane style, which, is 5he reason it's quieter.

DeatschWerks doesn't make the drop in unit or gas tanks. They may partner with companies like Tanks Inc that do in the future.
 
Get the Holley Sniper EFI tank.
If you are modded I would go overkill and buy the Walbro 450lph pump
Yes to 3/8" hardlines
Run AN fittings and lines from the hardlines to the tank and also to the throttle body.
If you use the Sniper, it has internal regulator for presure on some models.
 
Holley EFI tanks are exact copies of Tanks Inc tanks, including the fuel pump. Research prices. Get the best deal.
 
The Spectra Performance EFI tank has an internal tub for the sender, pickup fit into to help with fuel slosh. I haven't ran the tank down low to see when the pump can't suck fuel.
Also, the internal pumps that go through the sender unit hole, will limit you to the pump body size of the Welbro 255 lph pump.
I don't think the 450 which is larger diameter is too big to easely go through the sender hole. The pumps will not interchange as the brackets are different too.
I was concerned about the built in by-pass on my FiTech, and it worked fine with full flow from the 450 lph pump.
Did not test the by-pass on the holley, but it should be about the same?
The Tanks Inc/Holley Tank has the sender seperate from the pump, so If your making 500+ HP, the Tanks Inc/Holley tank should allow a larger fuel pump to be installed.
If making 900+ HP, Walbro has a 525 lph pump,, but it pulls around 20 Amps. The 255lph pump pulls about 1/2 as much current.
 
Here's how they plumbed my Holley/Tanks Inc in the El Camino. It's a pic of a different car since I don't have one of mine before it was installed.

IMG_20210126_075704940.jpg
 
I don't personally run EFI (yet?) but have been involved with several installs and these are things I've learned along the way that will help reduce/prevent excessive fuel heating and vapor locking problems (yes, they happen even with efi!)----
If your car has any oats plan on installing the return/regulator as close to the throttle body as possible. MPI systems like the regulator after the rails, but of course you can't do that on a TB setup. They're marketing 'returnless' systems now but they really aren't ideal for a performance build. (If you go with the standard Sniper, it's built-in to the TB so this doesn't apply.)
Plan on having the return line line be as big, or bigger than the feed line. You can get away with a 5/16" feed line with 58psi depending on your power level but the return should be at least 3/8".
Calculate the pump size you need for your application carefully (with a safety margin) so you don't run TOO big of a pump. Sounds crazy, but "too big" isn't good either.
As voltage drops/fluctuates so does pump output, so it's recommended to use a modern higher-output Alternator, which means upgrading the electrical system accordingly.
Good luck! Once it's thoroughly dialed in, you'll love it...
 
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can you buy AR engineering stuff direct from Andy or do you have to order through his list of dealers?
Screenshot 2021-11-25 at 08-45-20 Dealers AR Engineering.png


Oh and speaking of Andy, I picked up a good wiring technique from him which is basically don't worry about the 'neatness' of the wiring (wrapping it, putting it in looms, etc). Get the system up and running properly first, then you can go back and 'pretty up' the wiring install. Often times things need to be changed here and there and it becomes a beeyotch unwrapping bundles and taking harnesses back apart. Unfortunately these 'universal' kits aren't so universal when it comes to old Mopars...
 
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As someone pointed out earlier, if you use any type of flex line, make sure its PTFE lined. Standard rubber lined does not last against current pump fuels. There are many sources for lines and fittings. Fragola, Earls, Aeroquip, Russel, Redhorse and some others. For your hardline, if you run any, you should stay away from aluminum. Alcohol and aluminum don't get along.
 
For your hardline, if you run any, you should stay away from aluminum. Alcohol and aluminum don't get along.

Hence why beer should not be provided in cans, glass bottles only!
 
Yup. The fittings are ok unless they are not Anodized if using aluminum ones.
 
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