jshep34
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Have a 440 bore 30 over. Car has 727 tqf.486 gears .950qf carb. Edelbrock rpm performer heads. Weight is 2850. Like to run mid to low 10's. Have about 2k to spend. All ideas opinions welcomed. Thanks.
engine upgrade ????
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jshep34
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Edelbrock top end kit model 2087. Intake manifold edelbrock performer. Cam is edelbrock rpm performer.
FatJack
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Good nitrous system.
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Depends on what you want to do with it... What kind of car is it that is only 2850#'s, Or what's already been done... I would say replace the rockers, camshaft, springs, locks, retainers, seals, lifters & push rods for a roller style race combo, have the heads ported for your RPM & power level needs, maybe a set of CalTracs, or any type chassis improvement stuff, maybe a manual valve body w/rear band apply, so it is still very street-able & race track worthy, maybe lightweight racing rims & appropriate tires, maybe some lightweight or over-sized brakes, preferably slotted & drilled Disc.s, maybe a lightweight O/S drive-shaft, any of these products would easily be a well spent $2000 if not more... That is if you looking for performance & lower ET's anyway...
67 coronet
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a bunch more info on the rest of the car would be very helpfull.rear suspention,tire size and type,why is your car that light.pictures are worth a thousand words as they say.there are many ways to make a car faster and it is not always more power.
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Your car is 1000lbs lighter than mine:eusa_think:
womanator
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Get at least a Performer RPM intake.
On my charger I'm Taking off the Perf. RPM and putting on a M-1 intake.
That should help me get a better et.
67 Charger ran 11.93-looking for 10's
Pic of Engine with RPM intake.
On my charger I'm Taking off the Perf. RPM and putting on a M-1 intake.
That should help me get a better et.
67 Charger ran 11.93-looking for 10's
Pic of Engine with RPM intake.
Last edited:
jshep34
Active Member
have a rpm performer intake.
car is strip only.
the weight is due to being nothing but bare essentials to go point a to point b.
car is strip only.
the weight is due to being nothing but bare essentials to go point a to point b.
jshep34
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godfatherofchry
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from what I have seen on your video's think if you tuned on the chassis would help.how much pinion angel is in it.the rear suspension doesn't look like its working like it could...........Artie
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I see you have a 67 deck lid on it. I got my 66 down to 2950 while still driving it with the AC still on it. A lot of people didn't think you could make these cars that light but it's really not that hard. A buddy and I ran a 69 road runner with a .030 440, ported 906 heads, .590 DC cam, an old Torker intake, 850 (your carb is better) 11.5-1, 4 speed, 5.88's, ladders and coil overs. This was back in 1980 when 10.70's was pretty quick for a combo like that. Looks like you have ladders with leafs? which make suspension tuning hard(er) at best. What are your short times?
Meep-Meep
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2950???!!!!! Crap, I just weighed my car and it's 3735 without me in it! Obviously the rusted out holes in the quarters didn't help much.
Meep-Meep
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You won't need much for 2850 lbs. You can keep it simple and cheap because of the low weight. Throw a nice cam and some compression at it but no need to over do it. Don't forget the simple but effective oiling mods.
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My 66 started out at 3370 with a /6, auto and ac. The rest is pretty simple with manual steering and brakes. Glass hood, no front bumper or floor mat (came with rubber mats), undercoating removed, rear seat, rear window regulators and even some metal was removed. I have a Greenly hole punch kit too
Made a typo on the gear ratio in my other post...4.88's not 5.88 loljshep34
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sixty times were 1.50's. the car was build in the 80's. they did use the old 906 heads and torquer intake.the rear suspension has just been updated to coil overs
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With what you already have, I would change to a Single Plane intake, I like the Indy Dominator 4bbl Intakes, ported to match the heads {Professionally port the cylinder heads, the single best way to get more HP} & a 2" 4 hole spacer {possibly a Dominator Carb properly tuned & sized}, electric fuel pump of 250gpm or more #8-#10 fuel line, add a bypass style fuel regulator, with a line all the way back to the cell, so you have unrestricted free flowing 7psi of fuel pressure {I expect you already have a fuel cell, if it's a race car & is NHRA tech legal}, close off the areas around the carb top, with a piece of aluminum, seal it with foam rubber, Isolate the heat from the carb & intake, so the hood acts like a scoop & gives you more of a ram air effect, with much cooler denser out side air, hotter ignition system & coil possibly, maybe a retard box/brain for down the track timing changes, more camshaft & a Solid Roller/ {installed & degreed in properly} Roller lifters matching springs , Titanium Retainers & locks, Lighter valves Titanium Intake Valves preferably {if you don't have already} or maybe just higher/longer ratio Roller Rockers {more cubic inches alway helps}, more compression, shave the heads, deck & square the block, more converter stall speed, more fiberglass, like doors, trunk lid & bumpers, Lexan windows everywhere, get all the real glass out of the car, especially if it's a race only car, the easy way would be N20 w/a 150hp shot would get you there easily {with a stand alone fuel system like mentioned above, for the N20 also}, ditch the mechanical water pump get an electric pump free up a few more HP, good to see you went to coil overs on the rear, much more tunable, how about lightweight front suspension or convert to strut or coil overs, up front also, the car is already most the way there now, go the rest of the way, lighter wheels, Lighter drive-shaft, lighter brakes, any rotating mass you could reduce the weight on, the better.... Maybe you could share a detail list of "exactly" what you already have, so we know what to suggest, with an educated/knowledgeable informed answer.... Good Luck & Happy Moparing
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