Right stuff detailing booster install NEED HELP!

[bigmanjbmopar]

Has anyone used one of their 8" boosters? I just got mine back from the shop with the whole front conversion kit installed and the booster looks like ****. It comes with a bracket that raises it up high to clear big blocks but pushes the master cylinder forward so much it's just a few inches away from the battery.

They welded up the bolt to the fires wall because they thought it was flimsy? I am going to call RSD today but holy cow does this bracket for big blocks even get used? seems to me that only if needed and the booster it's self would just bolt where the old manual master cylinder was? They also fabb'ed up new lines to the proportioning valve and custom made brackets for the tail light switch etc, which now I think all was for nothing! Not sure I am happy with a GM booster either...they don't say that's what it is on their web site.

If it turns out I am right and how to I go back to this shop and tell them all that work needs to change? and should I pay them to re do it? Thinking I should have just bought the one form classic....:angryfire:



Anyone one done one of these from RSD before that can share pictures?



Here are the instructions, not sure if the shop followed them or not. http://getdiscbrakes.com/drop/Instructions/MDC62DC_MDC66DC.pdf


Pics of the kit

 

[lewtot184]

i did their manual/disc conversion and wasn't happy. i looked at that booster contraption (this booster is common for most kits) and was dismayed. i had a solid lifter cam and needed to get to the valve covers and concluded that "thing" was trouble. i think these vendors are using some kind of e-body hemi-booster and using it as a one size fits all.

 

[PST]

That bracket is needed to bolt it to the fire wall, we have a similar kit available that uses the GM style of booster. We do get the occasional complaint that you are describing on the appearance and positioning of the booster. The option that we offered the consumers now is our factory looking booster and master for the B bodies. So at this point that would be your next option.

Besides the appearance how is the braking ability of the new setup ?

As the for the work done by the shop I can't see there being much repercussions the only thing that would have bothered me personally would be the welding up of the holes in the firewall without running it by you. As for the install I would assume they just installed the provided parts. If it were I would talk with the owner of the shop and see what your options are and try to work with him before jumping to conclusions.

Thanks
James

 

[Propwash]

That's the same booster they sent me, thought it looked hideous myself as well. I was going from power drums to power disc and their supplied booster was completely wrong for my set up. They admitted their screw up. As mentioned in another thread, I as well as others had an issue with their spindle/bearing fit. I ended up finding a Bendix period correct style dual diaphragm booster. James over at PST sells them, along with the correct backing plate and linkage arm for power brakes. Napa also sells the Bendix Booster, master or the combo if you want to get them locally (sorry James, not trying to sway anyone away from you)

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Power-Brake-Booster-w-o-Master-Cylinder/_/R-NBB5473603_0136024137

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Power-Brake-Booster-w-Master-Cylinder/_/R-NBB503603_0136024138

I sent back the RSD booster (got $85 bucks back), kept the 1 1/8" bore master, tossed the tinker toy proportioning valve for a Wilwood, and kept all the hardware at the wheels. Kept the 11" Police/Taxi/HD drums in the back. Best braking muscle car I have ever owned. Tough spot you're in being everything is paid for and installed. If you can live with the look and it brakes good, keep it. If you can't, you could send the booster back for a refund, spend another $100 or so, re-plumb the booster and have the correct booster and positioning under the hood. Or bite the bullet on the whole set up and go premium with a Wilwood, Baer or SSBC high end kit. A side note with an OEM disc booster would be; the pregap nut coming on the end of the shaft of the bendix booster going into the rear of the master will need to be adjusted a little. I believe I had to go a half turn out being there was too much pedal travel before starting to engage the piston in the master. Pretty easy to adjust.

Don't know if it helps, but just another perspective for you. Kinda a dark/crappy pic, but here's the bendix booster mounter under my hood...Vacuum hose is running to a CVR vacuum pump due to the large cam in the stroker:

 

[super-bee_ski]

Its essentially a "Generic" GM booster i believe.
I have on on the Bee, I hate it. It came with my Master Power disc brake conversion kit.

There is a NEW product out now.
Its based on the original "Bendix", painted balck as Chrysler intended.
Very simmilar to the "RamMan" (Texas) unit but less expensive.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

So I called RSD and they confirmed what you said James, thanks by the way. I have to use the bracket. Below are some pics on the install, overall it's not bad for a retrofit disk brake conversion on a car that never had them so I guess it is just shocking to see it in the engine bay. When I first saw the kit for some reason I thought the bracket went on the inside and all you would see was the booster, after researching this it is like what Lew said these are just generic boosters set up for "big blocks" or in reality HEMI'S! why else would you need to raise the booster up other than to clear those massive hemi valve covers?

I also noticed a hole from the original opening partially exposed were the rubber boot goes through the fire wall, talked to RSD about this and they say there is a back plate that can be used to cover it taking the booster back off and installing it then re mounting the booster. I guess I will have to ask the shop to re do some of their work I am sure I will be charged to how ever since he welded the bolts to the bracket on the booster to tighten it up because he thought the whole assembly was flimsy(see pic) I will ask him to at least split the cost since he never called me to tell me he was going to do that, I think that is fair.

- - - Updated - - -

That's the same booster they sent me, thought it looked hideous myself as well. I was going from power drums to power disc and their supplied booster was completely wrong for my set up. They admitted their screw up. As mentioned in another thread, I as well as others had an issue with their spindle/bearing fit. I ended up finding a Bendix period correct style dual diaphragm booster. James over at PST sells them, along with the correct backing plate and linkage arm for power brakes. Napa also sells the Bendix Booster, master or the combo if you want to get them locally (sorry James, not trying to sway anyone away from you)

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...w-o-Master-Cylinder/_/R-NBB5473603_0136024137

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...er-w-Master-Cylinder/_/R-NBB503603_0136024138

I sent back the RSD booster (got $85 bucks back), kept the 1 1/8" bore master, tossed the tinker toy proportioning valve for a Wilwood, and kept all the hardware at the wheels. Kept the 11" Police/Taxi/HD drums in the back. Best braking muscle car I have ever owned. Tough spot you're in being everything is paid for and installed. If you can live with the look and it brakes good, keep it. If you can't, you could send the booster back for a refund, spend another $100 or so, re-plumb the booster and have the correct booster and positioning under the hood. Or bite the bullet on the whole set up and go premium with a Wilwood, Baer or SSBC high end kit. A side note with an OEM disc booster would be; the pregap nut coming on the end of the shaft of the bendix booster going into the rear of the master will need to be adjusted a little. I believe I had to go a half turn out being there was too much pedal travel before starting to engage the piston in the master. Pretty easy to adjust.

Don't know if it helps, but just another perspective for you. Kinda a dark/crappy pic, but here's the bendix booster mounter under my hood...Vacuum hose is running to a CVR vacuum pump due to the large cam in the stroker:

View attachment 161850

So that NAPA booster bolts right to the fire wall? no bracket needed? $114.92 total, $22 core price! ****!

With the f@@#$in thing welded up now I can't return the booster! ****! f#$%kj!@!! I am willing to get that napa booster and swap it out then sell that other gold irritating booster to a gm guy or something. or if RSD would take just the booster back without the bracket then cool but likely not what a bunch of **** this is pisses me off something good.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Ya know, I put my booster on without that stupid bracket, also did the same for my dads 70 challenger rt. All I had to do was enlarge the holes on the firewall a tad and the booster sat flush on it.

 

[Propwash]

Man, i'd be ticked too. Sorry to hear it. I wouldn't be happy with those welds either. I can see from their standpoint of trying to stiffen it up and avoid any liability, but why not run a few fender washers and nuts on the backside of your plate to tighten it up? Anyways, a little hard to tell from the pic's, but it looks like you have the reinforcement plate. You still need the linkage arm that connects the back of the booster to the pedal arm and brake support brackets under the dash. Below is a link with the proper reinforcement plate and linkage arm. As far as finding those parts, power drum cars had the same plate and linkage arm, so you could probably find them easily here used. Like I said, looks like you already have the correct plate. If not, a lot of folks carry the plate/linkage like PST, Year One, Ebay..ect...ect... If you look at the linkage arm you'll see a recessed area mid-shaft. That is for a spring. The bottom mount hole of the arm also has a couple bushings and a sleeve (which could be found here used or probably at a hardware store, or supplied with the arm?). There is also a gasket that goes from the booster to plate. Megaparts has it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Power-Brake-Firewall-Reinforcement-Plate-For-1966-69-B-Bodys/160918772132?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D3977875830914801890%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D190806228360%26


To answer your question, yes the booster mounts through the plate, right through your firewall. There is no modifications needed, because it just like reverting to an OEM disc set up for 68-70 B-Body mopar. The holes for it to mount are already on your firewall and correct for the bendix booster.

 

[69Bee]

Color me confused, but I don't understand "flimsy". The booster bracket looks to be about 1/8" thick, and the bolts go thru the sheetmetal firewall THRU the braks pedal assembly wich is at least 1/8" to 3/16" thick. That is no different that the original factory setup using similar brackets. I put power brakes on my 69 Bee with a bendix booster and riser brackets off of a 66 Cornet I found in the desert, and I never had any issues.

On top of that, ok, they welded it, but why the fk didn't they clean the weld, paint it to protect the metal, and at the very least, wipe the damn welding residue off of it. :angry1: The top cotter pin doesn't even look like it was spread far enough to ensure it won't come out. And, lets not even start to discuss the missing seal. What amateur did this?

This work shows to me the shop/worker/manager/owner does not have the same interest in your car as you do. I try to exceed any and all expectations of my customers, and they are usually impressed with the things they pick back up. Customer service and attention to detail go a LONG way in this business........

69Bee
Precision Machine Service
AZ

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

So talked to the shop that installed it all, he said if they send me the backing plate he will redo it for free and if I bring him the paint he will paint it black for me before re installing it. Or if I choose to get the bendix booster he would charge me about $160 to re do that. What should I do? I'm in this far but still need to drop $1500 on a trans rebuild next week. New booster $114 +tax and install $160 so $125+$160= $285 and have a more oem looking booster set up or get a free backing plate from RSD which they are sending me in the mail and have the shop install that and paint it for free. Hmmm opinions?

- - - Updated - - -

That bracket is needed to bolt it to the fire wall, we have a similar kit available that uses the GM style of booster. We do get the occasional complaint that you are describing on the appearance and positioning of the booster. The option that we offered the consumers now is our factory looking booster and master for the B bodies. So at this point that would be your next option.

Besides the appearance how is the braking ability of the new setup ?

As the for the work done by the shop I can't see there being much repercussions the only thing that would have bothered me personally would be the welding up of the holes in the firewall without running it by you. As for the install I would assume they just installed the provided parts. If it were I would talk with the owner of the shop and see what your options are and try to work with him before jumping to conclusions.

Thanks
James

Hey James didn't see the bendix booster on the web site how much would it cost me?

 

[snakeoil24]

Has anyone used one of their 8" boosters? I just got mine back from the shop with the whole front conversion kit installed and the booster looks like ****. It comes with a bracket that raises it up high to clear big blocks but pushes the master cylinder forward so much it's just a few inches away from the battery.

They welded up the bolt to the fires wall because they thought it was flimsy? I am going to call RSD today but holy cow does this bracket for big blocks even get used? seems to me that only if needed and the booster it's self would just bolt where the old manual master cylinder was? They also fabb'ed up new lines to the proportioning valve and custom made brackets for the tail light switch etc, which now I think all was for nothing! Not sure I am happy with a GM booster either...they don't say that's what it is on their web site.

If it turns out I am right and how to I go back to this shop and tell them all that work needs to change? and should I pay them to re do it? Thinking I should have just bought the one form classic....:angryfire:



Anyone one done one of these from RSD before that can share pictures?



Here are the instructions, not sure if the shop followed them or not. http://getdiscbrakes.com/drop/Instructions/MDC62DC_MDC66DC.pdf


Pics of the kit

Call MBM Brakes they makes these boosters for everyone. Now they are repopping the Hemi Oem style booster and you can get it for a reasonable price from Pirate Jack on Ebay.

 

[lewtot184]

Ya know, I put my booster on without that stupid bracket, also did the same for my dads 70 challenger rt. All I had to do was enlarge the holes on the firewall a tad and the booster sat flush on it.

is that an early b-body?

 

[PST]

So talked to the shop that installed it all, he said if they send me the backing plate he will redo it for free and if I bring him the paint he will paint it black for me before re installing it. Or if I choose to get the bendix booster he would charge me about $160 to re do that. What should I do? I'm in this far but still need to drop $1500 on a trans rebuild next week. New booster $114 +tax and install $160 so $125+$160= $285 and have a more oem looking booster set up or get a free backing plate from RSD which they are sending me in the mail and have the shop install that and paint it for free. Hmmm opinions?

- - - Updated - - -






Hey James didn't see the bendix booster on the web site how much would it cost me?

Here is link to the booster.
http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.9868/.f?sc=12

I will have a price in the morning for you if you are interested just on the booster.

Thanks
James

 

[Propwash]

James,

For future reference, does the linkage arm come with the two bushings and a sleeve?

- - - Updated - - -

 

[5.7 hemi]

Yes it is, a 64.

 

[lewtot184]

Yes it is, a 64.

cool! sending a p.m.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Hey Prop do you have anymore pics? Just want to get a closer look

- - - Updated - - -

Also found this from Bendix web site, has a good cross reference list like the Napa booster is actually a Wagner.

http://www.bendixcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?PartNumber=R2518078&PartType=Power%20Brake%20Booster

 

[Propwash]

Nice link....Bookmarked to have at those different MFG part #'s. Thanks!


Here's a couple pic's. Sorry, only have a camera phone available so pic's are not that great. Plus it's hard to keep the little lens from fogging up due to the sub zero crap out there. You'll have to let me know what you're looking for in the pic's. I have quite a bit of extra wires running over mine due to the MSD 6AL Harness, single wire alternator 6 gauge wire and some other accessories. Yours would look a bit less cluttered if you ended up going that route.

 

[Meep-Meep]

That RSD booster in the top pic is a Bendix unit commonly found on Fords. My 67 Ranchero has one just like it. From what I have seen GM uses the Delco type of a totally different shape.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Looks like summit sells the same one as Napa for about the same price with core charge. Just waiting on James to send a price over for the PST one.