Rear leaf locating pin does not line up with spring pad!

[GearAddict]

Ok, I need some advice here... I removed my old unknown passenger side rear spring and mounted a new Mopar Performance XHD spring into the hanger and shackles but the mounting pad pilot hole is about an inch off of the locating pin on the new spring...I tried jockeying it around to line up, but can't get the rear axle to move enough to get it to drop in.

I went and measure the new XHD drivers side against the old spring and the pins are about 3/4 of an inch different in placement.

Not sure what to do at this point... I was intending on doing both sides, but one at a time. I assume the slip yoke on the axle would let me move the diff back an inch, but I'm worried that if I cut the u-bolts on the other side the diff yoke is going to nose dive... I suppose I could get another jack and prop it up?

Any suggestions/advice is much appreciated.

I'll post pics later tonight.

 

[robinsonwr]

What kind of a vehicle, Dodge or Plymouth? What year model b-body? Dodge B-bodies have a 1" longer wheel base than a Plymouth. The front hangers are different also. The XHD springs can be used on either vehicle. Check out AR Engineering or Mancini Racing for front spring hangers to fit your application. I just ordered everything to rebuild my rear suspension on the ole 66' Sat. I too am using XHD springs, AR095 front hangers, AR107 reinforcement plates, ADDCO 7/8" sway bar, and Rancho 9000 RS99116 shocks. I hope this helped.

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Measure from the center of the front bushing to the center of spring pad stud. The measurement should be 22" on the new XHD's and find out what the others measure.

 

[GearAddict]

What kind of a vehicle, Dodge or Plymouth? What year model b-body? Dodge B-bodies have a 1" longer wheel base than a Plymouth. The front hangers are different also. The XHD springs can be used on either vehicle. Check out AR Engineering or Mancini Racing for front spring hangers to fit your application. I just ordered everything to rebuild my rear suspension on the ole 66' Sat. I too am using XHD springs, AR095 front hangers, AR107 reinforcement plates, ADDCO 7/8" sway bar, and Rancho 9000 RS99116 shocks. I hope this helped.

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Measure from the center of the front bushing to the center of spring pad stud. The measurement should be 22" on the new XHD's and find out what the others measure.

Thanks.. I posted fast as I was running out of the house... The car in question is a 69 Roadrunner. The springs removed measure 21.125 approximately from center of the bushing to the pin. I believe the hangers are stock but I could be wrong. The XHD springs seem to line up fine, I am assuming the springs that were on it are the wrong ones?

The car has a Dana 60 from a truck I believe and had the shock plates removed and traction bars added. I would guess from the angle of the shackles that the front hangers are correct. If it was just about moving the springs forward, I would need longer shackles so I'm guessing it is the old springs that are the issue.

That said, am I right that the slip yoke should be ok for another 1" if I move the diff backwards?

Also any suggestions on how best to do that? Just prop up the diff on 2 jacks, one on the pinion housing and one on the case, then swap the other spring (driver side) and pull both jacks back until the pins line up?

I'm a little perplexed on how to best go about this.

 

[GearAddict]

here are a few pics of the spring I removed and the new shackles and front hanger. I tried looking up the number stamped on the spring but couldn't find anything on it.

The pic I took of the misalignment of pin to spring perch didn't come out.

Is it possible that it is a dodge spring? would it be different?



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I found this about the part number on the leaf..."H.D. Rear Springs, -4 ½ Leaf STD w/ 383 4bbl WM 2539213 Std w/ Super Bee." It was referring to a 1969 model

 

[GearAddict]

ok...problem solved... a good nights sleep was the answer.

The old leafs had a lot more arch to them than the new ones. It occurred to me that I was twisting the diff by leaving the other side hang in on the leaf. So I bought a second jack this morning and jacked up the drivers side and presto, it dropped right into place.

sometimes you just have to step away from the job to see things clearly.

 

[twinscrew698]

Doing mine this week hopefully with the same springs.

 

[67 B-body]

I drop the rear ends down with the springs attached to the axle housing.... I take the rear shackle bolts out first, then the front mount bolts to let it down... This way things are easy to put together as an assembly, and lift it up to the front hangers then the shackle bolts..

 

[GearAddict]

Doing mine this week hopefully with the same springs.

Good luck with the project...my car had been jerry rigged by the previous owner so that casued some of the issues.

Other than my problem above, the install was not bad at all. Only adive would be to use tons of penatrating oil on the front hanger nuts and even after that maybe a quick hit with a soft bristle brush before trying to remove them. I had one side come off with no issus, but snapped 3 out of 4 studs on the other side.

Also, I took the advice from the forum here and bought new U-Bolts and cut the old ones with a cut-off tool.
Very glad I did this as no amount of penetrating oil was going to get them free and my deep well impact socket wasn't deep enough to get a good hold on them.

Good luck with the swap

 

[robinsonwr]

GearAddict,
Much like you I changed all the hardware when doing the spring installation. I added some parts not originally with the vehicle like a rear sway bar.
View attachment 182915View attachment 182917View attachment 182919View attachment 182920

 

[GearAddict]

Sweet! That looks sharp.

I need to follow your's and 67 B-Body's lead and drop the whole diff next time, springs and all so that I can strip and paint the axle tubes and housing. I was lazy and didn't want to have to bleed the brakes.

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GearAddict,
Much like you I changed all the hardware when doing the spring installation. I added some parts not originally with the vehicle like a rear sway bar.

Where do the rear sway bar endlinks attach to on the body?

 

[robinsonwr]

Sweet! That looks sharp.

I need to follow your's and 67 B-Body's lead and drop the whole diff next time, springs and all so that I can strip and paint the axle tubes and housing. I was lazy and didn't want to have to bleed the brakes.

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Where do the rear sway bar endlinks attach to on the body?

The end links attach to the frame rails after drilling two 3/8" holes per side. I did not have to worry about bleeding the brakes since the ole 66' will be getting all new lines from Inline Tube shortly.