although I'm the author of the parallel wiring diagrams and thread, is not actually MY idea, but just a modification of how MaMopar wired high equipped cars with big alts.
On these cars, the wires going from batt and alt ( 8 and 10 gauges instead our 12 gauge stock ones ) taped with engine bay harnesses doesn't reach the bulhead, and actually got a separated high load terminals to run though the firewall with a grommet at a side of the bulkhead
I call it parallel just because stock ones running allong the engine and forward lighting harness from alt and batt are still in working order, doesn't beed to be removed, just reinforce with the extras ones I talk about throught bulkhead. Mostly sure if stock ones got some damage usually are easy to service and still keep them working and still run the parallel path.
What I have to say about this:
1- the first you need to know is... LEARN about what it means the ammeter reading ( which IS NOT an alt gauge, actually a batt gauge ) once you learn what this reading means, mostly sure everybody will undertand this gauge doesn't need to be removed. My personal example... I'm running a 100 amps Mopar gauge ( or it was what Mopar box said about this alt ) with stock 40 amps gauge and my ammeter is completelly safe with no high loads going through, so no heat there anymore....
2-MADelectrical page even is really helpfull got some WRONG afirmations there. On their mod they state the main splice is being moved to outside the car wich is somehow wrong. The main source splice will be ALLWAYS inside the car, shared by the ign switch and the welded splice where everything is sourced, between alt and ammeter inside the cab. There is no way to change that unless a heavier mod on harness. Which they are making is converting the starter relay stud on a bigger Junction that actually was between alt, batt and cab, but the sources splice is still on same spot inside the cab, like previouslly was.
What their method helps is share the cab sources paths by two wires, already existant on our cars ( removing the weakness of stock terminals ), but without care where comes the power, alt or batt. Since won't care where it comes the power, then the ammeter is being removed and replaced by a voltmeter....
Nothing really wrong with this, but simply is not required if you are restoring ( do we really know what restore a car does it means ? keep yoru car in working order like factory did ? ). Is just about prefference. Myself, preffers the ammeter
3-Fuse links... they are able to hold small or momentary high loads so won't blown with any small accidental short like any regular fuse will do ( our cars already got fuses for that ), but still will keep safe your car on a big event on main parts of wiring. That's why I like fuse links ( and I guess same reason for MADelectrical crew ), and makes an easy installation being part of the harness itself, without any extra device added. Latelly somebody have talked about maxifuses... that is actually also a regular fuse, what will blown at the stated rate, without a chance to hold a small peak
4- On my thread about the parallel wiring, I have learnt step by step all allong the process, and even initially I post to use two fuse links, one for each wire between ammeter and batt, actually I made a correction at the end, advicing is way safer and better to use JUST ONE fuse link, so splice both wires ( parallel and stock ) into a heavier gauge fuse link. Dual fuse link there will take way longer before blown, so more time to bigger damages.
MADelectrical shows to install two fuse link, one coming from alt and one running to cab. Myself I don't consider necesary that. On stock system if there is a big short, the only source able to hold the short sourced is the batt never the alt, so why a fuse link running to alt? on a big short the engine will stall &/or the voltage regulator power will be cut, and the alt source stops
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sleepar, if you link alt and batt together, and even more, removes ammeter, won't matter anymore where your source any extra device, batt, alt or whatever junction around, so don't make an unecesary wiring job to take extra sources. Simply use a junction or buss bar for everything, Or get the power from the closer point available, per you needs. You can use the starter relay as a main Junction if you want.
The reason to source all the accesories EXPLICITY from alt side is just when ammeter is still present, to keep the correct reading and don't need to add stress on ammeter and related wiring.
With ammeters, if you source any added device from batt side, the power coming from alt will go through ammeter and bulkhead to source THIS devices like if batt was sucking power ( then a constant discharge reading, constant load there, heat ), where ammeter doesn't need to read this if alt is able to source everything from the right side of wiring
