Frame Rail Repair on 71 GTX Clone

[gibber]

Hope to get some advice from fellow Mopar owners. Bought this GTX clone several months ago and discovered that the LH forward frame rail has about a 17 inch section that is shot. The rest of the frame rails are fine, strange that it is only this section that has rusted through. I'm looking at suggestions for a permanent repair. I just took the car to a frame and alignment shop that someone in my Mopar club recommended here in Phoenix and he said about 2 grand in labor! Plus he wants the motor and transmission out, the LH front fender removed and the front grille assembly taken off as well. Then I'm to flatbed the car to him, and he will do God knows what for 2 grand and let me have my car back.

I know this needs to be addressed soon, but the car doesn't sag, drives straight, and no alignment/tire wear issues. Looking for some advice as how to tackle this. Picture attached, the rotted section is 17 inches and is between the rear torsion bar mount and the inner front fender splash shield. The torsion bar mount is fine, no issues. Appreciate any advice from those that have dealt with frame rail issues...

Thanks,

Mark

 

[satman72]

2 grand maybe, if the shop was doing all the work. removal, repair, replacement.

 

[sdweatherman]

The shop is probably going to do a full frame rail replacement, which will easily gobble up 2K in costs. New frame rails are $400, and there is a lot of labor involved. If you are just wanting to repair the frame rail with a good patch, you could probably get a good body shop to do that for closer to a grand. Good luck! Scott.

 

[eldubb440]

no one has a magic wand

 

[flypaper]

if someone tells you they could replace it for alot less,
run away fast!

 

[gibber]

Well, I just don't think 2K for just a frame rail replacement, with the shop wanting me to also absorb the cost for taking most of the car apart and putting it back together is pretty steep. I shall explore other options, thanks....

Mark

 

[JedIEG]

Here is what I did for my frame rot, thought its not in the same place.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?76796-Frame-Reinforcement
If you are willing to do it yourself, auto rust technicians (https://www.autorust.com/) have safetcaps and rails. Buy yourself a decent Mig and save yourself $1000.

 

[moparisbest]

I just did a front frame rail on my 73 satellite. its not really that hard to do get in your shop put it on stands take some steel and sure up the inner fender on the side that needs replaced take off fender and door on that side . buy a couple of the 7 dollar spot weld cutters from napa and get to work I did it in two days measure from the floor up to frame rail in a few places and from frame rail to frame rail up front and put the new rail back in View attachment 219455

 

[gibber]

Impressive! Thanks for the pictures...

Mark

 

[71charger_fan]

My '71 Charger needed the right front frame rail repaired/replaced. Used the Auto Rust Technicians piece.
You should take a hard look at your right frame rail. The right side usually goes first as that side of the road tends to be wetter over time than the left side of the lane at the crown of the road.

 

[satman72]

Ask around at other shops. As I said earlier 2K isn't far off the mark if the shop is doing all the work. Also, are you supplying the frame rail.

 

[Propwash]

Myself I would raise and support the car, take some initial measurements, go to the local metal supply store and pick-up some 14 gauge metal, drill out the spot welds to the floor pan, cut out the old garbage, make some cardboard templates to fabricate a new repair section, scribe to 14 gauge and cut out template pieces, coat inside of of new pieces with a heavy zinc weld-thru primer, tac-weld in the new repair sections, re-check initial measurements, if good-weld up full, re-weld spot welds, re-check measurements, lower the car and off...off away! $20-30 bucks in materials, 10-20 hours worth of work (depending on skills/equipment) and you're done.

 

[satman72]

Yeah, but you're a better man than most of us!

 

[dvw]

Myself I would raise and support the car, take some initial measurements, go to the local metal supply store and pick-up some 14 gauge metal, drill out the spot welds to the floor pan, cut out the old garbage, make some cardboard templates to fabricate a new repair section, scribe to 14 gauge and cut out template pieces, coat inside of of new pieces with a heavy zinc weld-thru primer, tac-weld in the new repair sections, re-check initial measurements, if good-weld up full, re-weld spot welds, re-check measurements, lower the car and off...off away! $20-30 bucks in materials, 10-20 hours worth of work (depending on skills/equipment) and you're done.

I agree we've done it. You know how you tell when it was one? the metal wasn't pitted like the rest oof the car. Not that hard.
Doug

 

[Propwash]

Yeah, but you're a better man than most of us!

No sir......not better at all. Just a glutton for punishment. lol

I agree we've done it. You know how you tell when it was one? the metal wasn't pitted like the rest oof the car. Not that hard.
Doug

You bet! Not rocket science....just plain old dirty metal work.

 

[67 Mopar]

Myself I would raise and support the car, take some initial measurements, go to the local metal supply store and pick-up some 14 gauge metal, drill out the spot welds to the floor pan, cut out the old garbage, make some cardboard templates to fabricate a new repair section, scribe to 14 gauge and cut out template pieces, coat inside of of new pieces with a heavy zinc weld-thru primer, tac-weld in the new repair sections, re-check initial measurements, if good-weld up full, re-weld spot welds, re-check measurements, lower the car and off...off away! $20-30 bucks in materials, 10-20 hours worth of work (depending on skills/equipment) and you're done.

Ayuh...

 

[gibber]

Thanks again. I have a shop that is ready to do replacement of that 18 inch section with either the Auto rust piece or they can fabricate one if necessary, including any floor pan work. Estimate is less than 600 bucks. Shop builds race cars, so I've seen their welding work, top notch...

Appreciate all the advice...

Mark

 

[gibber]

All fixed using the Safe-T-Cap from Auto Rust. Shop did a great job, was 1K total as it was more work than originally estimated, but done and car is good to go now...

Mark