6 cyl tortion bars on v8

[RT K_line]

I was wondering if anyone has done this? I read that it helps with weight transfer. My R/T doesn't lift the front end up like my GTX did on takeoff. I ran the same setup in both cars but the X would transfer weight better. 67 Coronet R/T vs 70 GTX, Thanks for your time.

 

[66Satellite47]

I knew a number of folks that did that years ago. Never did myself. Make sure all your suspension parts move freely and 90/10 or adjustable front shocks are the 1st place to start. Does the rear end rise too much to fast? Also on my '65 Coronet I had 3 way adjustables in the back set on the slowest extension setting to keep the rear from reacting too fast along with 90/10's in the front. It was a hard leaving car.

 

[theman440]

The GTX has a shorter wheel base than the Dodge, that is part of it and ditto to what 66Sat said. I have 6cyl bars on my '66 - seemed to help a little. Car 60ft's 1.48

 

[RT K_line]

I am running the summit brand 3 way adjustable shocks front and rear, they are supposedly adjustable to 90/10 front and 60/40 or 70/30 rear if I remember correctly. The GTX ran stock type shocks. I'll recheck the rear settings. did the Hemi cars have a different front suspension setup because the X was originally a Hemi car. I bought the rolling chassi from a buddy who took the 440 out for his challenger. someone had already taken the hemi and crossmember before he got it and swaped in a 440.

 

[Badvert65]

I have heard that 6 cyl torsion bars tend to bottom out more easily with street driving. I will find out as soon as I put the big block in my Belvedere. It's a slant 6 and I don't have other torsion bars for it.

 

[dvw]

A torsion bar is like any other spring. They're rated in pounds per square inch. As an example compress a 100lb spring 1" and it will support 100lbs. compress it 2" and it will support 200lbs. Now when we have have 100lb spring compressed 4" it supports 400lbs. or we could use a 400lb spring compressed 1". The difference is when the 400lb spring extends 1" it has no stored energy left as it is no longer compressed. The 100lb spring still has 300lbs of stored energy left when it is extended 1". The same applys to thick (strong) and thin (weak) torsion bars. You will have to crank the adjuster to load the thin bar to regain load capacity, thus storing energy. This will help your car pitch rotate (lift to the rear). It will also gain less stored energy for every 1" of compression during street driving. We run 6 cylinder bars on the street. It won't handle like a slot car but it's not bad.
Doug

 

[383man]

I always remember the racers in the 60's and 70's seemed to all run 6 cyl torsion bars. But they were race cars only. Myself I run the stock 383 torsion bars in my 63 as I thought it may handle better on the street with the stock 383 bars over the 6 cyl bars. Since my car seems to hook fine (1.50 sixty at 10.70's) I never tried the 6 cyl bars because it drives and handle's nice with the stock 383 bars. Would it transfer weight better with the 6 cyl bars ?? Would it handle as good with the 6 cyl bars ?? I cant really say but if I was having hook problems I might try the 6 cyl bars but since it seems to hook ok I have just left the 383 bars in it. Ron

 

[RT K_line]

I think my car leaves ok but the 60 foot times are closer to 1.9 I think my time slips are still missing from the move. I probably just need to change the gears to 4.10 or 4.30. I'm currently running 3.55s, and running 12.20s to12.50s, at 108 mph depending on the weather. Does that sound right to you guys? 440 30 over 10.6 : 1 compression approximately 3500 lb 26 inch tire.
Thanks for your input.

 

[dvw]

Not bad with 3.55 gear.
Doug

 

[383man]

Not bad with 3.55 gear.
Doug

I agree thats not bad for the gear. My old 383 Dart had 3.91's with a tight TA 3000 conveter and on G/60-15 McCreary's it ran 12.30's @ 110 with a best 60 of 1.76. It was no race car as it was s street car but most cars I see running 108 mph that hook good run around 12.40's to 12.20's. Good hooking NHRA stockers might run in the high 11's at 108 but they fine tune their rear suspension for years to get it so good. 108 mph on an average street car is usually around 12.40's so you are doing fine for what you have. Ron

 

[Meep-Meep]

Back in the 80's I ran 6 cyl bars in my white RR. It was pretty spongy especially without the front sway bar at 120 MPH (did that once racing a hemi Charger!). I never had slicks on it so probably had no clue if they helped. For the most part it drove OK around town and down the track.

 

[dvw]

60 ft improvements can be looked at from 4 areas. Not enough power (gear ratio, torque converter, engine, carb tuning for transition,). Not enough traction (suspension adjustment, tires, weight bias). Too heavy (self explanatory). And finally excessive suspension body movement that is not needed to produce sufficient traction. If the car all ready hooks there is no need to add suspension travel and body movement.

 

[RT K_line]

60 ft improvements can be looked at from 4 areas. Not enough power (gear ratio, torque converter, engine, carb tuning for transition,). Not enough traction (suspension adjustment, tires, weight bias). Too heavy (self explanatory). And finally excessive suspension body movement that is not needed to produce sufficient traction. If the car all ready hooks there is no need to add suspension travel and body movement.

Thanks dvw I think it hooks good. I did originally plan on running 4.30s but now I mostly just drive it on the street. 3.55 gears and a 4200 stall works wonders for me now. And with the track here shut down I'll have to wait until it reopens to try different gears. Thanks for your input.

 

[Dodge 330]

I run /6 bars on the street with a 440 in my '63 Dodge. Aluminum heads helped.

I still don't take corners very fast..:icon_pale: