Cracked cylinder head, did I do it or flaw?

[4spEd]

I had a 440 rebuilt. They used my old heads and rebuilt them. I attached headers and studs using an open end box wrench. after assembley I went to pressure test cooling system had coolant coming out of header. After removing header to see whats going on and this is what i found. First question I asked myself is could I do something this severe and are these heads that fragile? My mechanic says no way I could do that with a box wrench, but builder of engine says I caused it. engine has never been run since rebuild. as you can see crack radiates from stud to exhasut pot and freeze plug.

 

[mentor70]

where that crack goes all the way to that core plug, id say that the problem was there before you did anything.

if you live where things freeze in the winter, thats probably when the damage started.

im not judging here, but the exhaust ports look kinda dirty for a rebuild head, thats never been run. it does not appear from my perspective that much time or money was put into the heads, and this flaw was over looked from lack of proper preparation.

it could be repaired, but iron heads are cheap and plentiful, so id seek another set, preferably a set that has not been worked, and off the same engine, but thats just how id do it, you could just find any matching core and have it serviced, and throw it on.

 

[69Bee]

First, throw the tube of "Blue Death" (also orange death) away, and use a proper sealer.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...on-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-9904/

You did NOT do this, especially with a box wrench. It was already cracked, and just opened up when you tightened it. Judging by that port, I would look for a different machine shop.... When I clean heads, they get washed, glass beaded, and painted either a color or cast iron grey.

 

[bm02tj]

Find a new shop to do your work and tell all your friends
If you screw up you admit it and fix it not blame the customer

 

[Seventy]

I have to agree with everyone here, you didn't crack the head tightening a header with a box wrench unless you were using a 4 foot box wrench with tapered bolts, lol..

The builder should minimum cover remanning a new head, but again judging by what that head looks like, have them both redone by someone else... Head should have been maggnefluxxed (not sure how to spell that), that crack was probably in view with out mag powder BUT with a decent machine shop they would have picked that up FAST and threw that head away, instead of putting any time into it..

With heads that are easy to find like these and most chevy heads, I wont fix anything, just get another one, chevys like to break from the triangle water port to the bolt and you can press in a sleeve pretty easily and a lot of guys do that, but I toss them, the sleeves are $9 and a good core is $30.

ANYWAY, sorry about your issues, good luck getting it resolved, my best advice would be to pull both heads, take them all apart, have them cleaned and checked for cracks and runout on the uncracked head. If the good head checks good, reassemble it and find another core for the other one, have it done by someone else. Sad part is you are going to be out the gaskets, time and labor. You are not out the extra core because you needed one from jump street, that head should have been tossed, the company that built it should in the minimum refund what they charged you to do that head...


Good luck..

 

[moper]

Yup - that heads was cracked before you touched it. Guaranteed. You will either strip the threads of the grade 5 stud, or shear it off LONG before the head cracks. That is a typical "freeze" crack. I also question the quality given the look of that one port.

 

[niteshift70]

Going out on a limb to say the crack has been there a long while. It was just exacerbated by the stud installation (the permatex didnt help, multiplied the pressure via hydraulics.) As far as the machine shop goes, most shops only inspect the deck and intake surfaces when magnafluxing. Some only inspect the deck side because that's where 99.7% of all cracks will be located (i.e. between the valve seats or the combustion chambers, sometimes between the combustion chamber and a water jacket hole.) It was most likely a freeze crack or one started by a microscopic impurity in the cast iron, that had finally grown into the stud hole. The stud just helped it go the rest of the way.

 

[rakort]

Agreed, I ran an automotive machine shop for years, this is BS

Find a new shop to do your work and tell all your friends
If you screw up you admit it and fix it not blame the customer

 

[Bb70charger500]

Yeah I'm in agreement with everyone too. There's no way you cracked that head at least you can get a good core set fairly cheap and at least re-use the valves. Shame to throw all those valve seals and gaskets in the trash but it's not worth messing with and I wouldn't use them any more that port deff is dirty for not running. Here's a ? Didthe threads even stretch on the stud? (Can you run a nut down it with your fingers? ) you can tell that shop that there's no way you broke it you didn't even stretch the thread s on the stud . That should be enough proof right there . (Just ask for a refund) and go somewhere else good luck

 

[4spEd]

Thanks for all the replies, they are still insisting I did it but will only charge me parts on the core I send them. I will have to go with it as they are hold warranty on the entire engine. Lets hope when I put it on everything else is ok.

 

[fratzog lover]

If you did that, I have some engine blocks I need you to carry to the basement for me!