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Trick Flows on the 440.....

I believe those are only for modern cars with ECM's and just take the signal and output it to a gauge.

Ah, I'll check and see what gauge is on the dyno we use. It's a stand alone. Sometimes it picks up valvetrain clatter depending on where you put the sensor.
 
Thanks Hemirunner. It is a solid roller motor so valvetrain noise might be a issue.....
 
Straight out................I have no experience with knock sensors.

What I can tell you is I primed the engine with a 1/4 drive speed wrench yesterday. 67 psi oil pressure just gently cranking it by hand and with the drill motor it had 75 psi. I installed the plug wires this morning and the dyno is being re-assembled as I type this. I'm about to prepare the 850 Mighty Demon to mount on the engine. If we don't fire this afternoon we will tomorrow morning.

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This is like being a kid again waiting for Christmas!

I'm a case having of the bumps-of-the-geese myself.
 
I just unboxed a set for a 4.500" stroke 537 pump gas wedge. It would seem that these heads were intended to be produced in a max wedge size raised port offering given the massive amount of material over the port. Interesting head for sure.

Rumour is that the MW port head will be out this summer.
 
Rumour is that the MW port head will be out this summer.

That figures, lol. This guy wouldn't want to wait and they won't fit his choice of intake. I bet they'll make plenty of power over these on a big cube combo.
 
Can't wait for tomorrow! :hello2::hello2:
 
Sometimes when you show up in the morning you find that you and the crew were not on the same page the night before. When I got here there were two 1 ton diesels in the shop. One without the transfer case and the other had the engine removed. At least they hadn't disassembled the Harley they brought in.
 
Stock distributor and the Summit Racing brand which amazingly looks exactly like a FireCore50, go figure. We set it for 16 degrees mechanical so we can start right around 20 degrees initial.

View attachment 310235View attachment 310237

And then up crops one tiny little problem, rotor phasing. The cam gear for the distributor/oil pump, intermediate shaft, intermediate shaft bushing, block and distributor tolerances have all added up so the rotor doesn't even point to the cap terminals at full advance.

View attachment 310245

Rotor's eye view @ 20 degrees initial advance. The red spot on the distributor housing is the width and location of the cap terminal.

View attachment 310246

Rotor's eye view @ 36 degrees total advance.

View attachment 310247

Let's fix it................

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Here is the rotor's eye view of the rotor phasing after the fix.

@ 20 degrees initial

View attachment 310256

@ 36 degrees total

View attachment 310257

And the fix. The stock reluctor is on the left. The slot that lines up directly with one point of the reluctor is for small block distributors and the offset one is for the big block distributors. We needed more offset. The modified one is on the right. I had six chances to get it right and it only took two!

View attachment 310258

Have you used Rick Ehrenberg's reluctor? I believe it has six slots and can help in these situations (rotor phasing problems or misfire).
 
So....we have have to wait for dyno results???
 
No, not for long. They are doing heli-arc on the aluminum transfer case and the high frequency will play havoc with the dyno. 'Bought ready to go.

Tim Borrall 440 071.jpg
 
Jim made a easy pull to 5300 rpm, looking good! I'll let him do the reporting........ (dramatic pause).........
 
Just found Rick's Ebay page and bought his multiposition reluctor. Now just need to figure out if I need it or not and how to dial it in.

Have you used Rick Ehrenberg's reluctor? I believe it has six slots and can help in these situations (rotor phasing problems or misfire).
 
How did you know the distributor's rotor wasn't "phased" where it needed to be? Do you always check for this and how?

Waiting on the results :popcorn:
 
How did you know the distributor's rotor wasn't "phased" where it needed to be? Do you always check for this and how?

Waiting on the results :popcorn:[/QUOT Khrysler, the best way I've found is to drill a sizeable hole in the dist. cap directly above the #1 lug inside the cap. then if you know your initial and advanced timing is correct then use a non dial back type of timing light hooked to the #1 wire then put a little whiteout on top of the rotor then run the engine up till all advance is in and test the initial position and then the advance position to see where the rotor is at in relation to the cap lug. The leading edge or the rotor should be at the leading edge of the cap lug at initial and the following edge of the rotor should be at the following edge of the cap lug at total advance. Oh yeah, you will need a new cap after drilling a hole in it. If you are not within these limits then you will have to modify or buy Ehrenbergs reluctor or move the rotor position. Hope this makes since.
 
This is some great info! Teaching an old dog new tricks!

I'm thinking that Jim found that this distributor was out by checking visually, not with a running engine?

This is something that can be easily overlooked and it can have a great effect on how the engine preforms. Very easy to take this for granted.

Thanks cryplydog and 440beep for your info!
 
Wholly Mother of Mopar, right on... can't wait for my build..
 
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