Help!!!

[drobertson]

So today I was getting ready to start my rebuilt 318 in my 1973 Charger, but a few major problems came up.

Initially, I couldn't get the engine to crank over. I think it's the ignition switch, because bypassing the switch made the engine turn over. However, I'm getting no spark from the coil! Like what in the world? I've got a new battery (NAPA brand) , new coil (MSD Blaster 2), new ballast resistor, new stock-style ignition box, etc. Could the ignition switch be the problem for both the engine not turning and the coil getting no electricity?:eusa_wall:

However, I discovered a water leak:angryfire:. This 318 has had its stock heads rebuilt, but I'm using a weiand intake made for all LA small blocks: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8007/overview/make/dodge. Apparently I had the wrong intake gaskets. So when I buy new intake gaskets, should I get gaskets with the large or small port?

Thanks for all replies. I have spend months working on this car and I really want to see her on the road again soon.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Run a wire directly from the + battery to the ballast resistor and try starting it again manually via the starter relay. That will tell you if the ignition switch is the culprit.

 

[drobertson]

Run a wire directly from the + battery to the ballast resistor and try starting it again manually via the starter relay. That will tell you if the ignition switch is the culprit.

That did work.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Good deal. Next thing to check is your connections at the firewall plug. If you have a test light or multimeter you can check for power, also pull the plug off and make sure it's not corroded. If all checks out good there then its likely the ignition switch.

Good luck and glad you were able to get it to run. I'm not familiar enough with small blocks so I can't help on the intake gaskets. Hopefully someone else will chime in on that.

 

[drobertson]

Well I pulled the intake manifold today, and it looks like the gaskets are why the intake was leaking. I have ordered a new neutral safety switch connector to attach that, and I'm gonna get a new ignition switch and lock cylinder to see if that'll do the trick.

 

[SAC]

Brown wire to ballast should be hot while cranking, as it bypasses ballast resistor for starting. When you release the key, blue wire (to ballast) is live and runs power through ballast resistor while car is running. I suspect the no-start condition lies in the brown wire not sending power to coil while cranking.