60 foot times, 2.0 to 2.2...advice?

[biomedtechguy]

I ran my best 1/4 mile times yesterday vs last year at the same time and track. Last year I was running 13.9s at 102mph. I am sure that going more than once a year would help, lol, but still I would appreciate advice. 1/4 mile times for my modded 70 V code Roadrunner with a 71 440 4 speed with a 6 bbl ran in the 13.35-13.45 range at 104-105 mph. 3.54 Dana 60 and 315/35/17 Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials. No line lock, so I would spin them up a couple of times in 1st while moving to impart some heat and clean them a bit before I would settle in for the run. Generally didn't spin on the launch, but I wasn't hitting the gas hard until I started rolling. Thanks for any advice. Stock rear suspension, no wheel hop, no pinion snubber.

 

[khryslerkid]

They're good times for what you have there! Reminds me of the numbers I use to get with my '64 Dodge back in the day. Mid 13's all day long!

An adjustable pinion snubber would be my first investment. Helps to keep the rear form rotating on launch. (wind up) Some Dana's didn't have provisions for one. I bet that's why you don't have one.

To you drive to the track or tow?

 

[biomedtechguy]

Drove 1 hour there and (even better-lol) drove BACK. I am pretty sure that if I could improve my launch traction further, and incorporate more power from the start, my 60 ft times would improve. Last year on BF Goodrich 275/15s, I was blowing the tires off at almost any speed in 1st. I'm pretty sure I could install a pinion snubber, but I am going to get CalTracks, so I haven't bought a pinion snubber. I'm also in the process of buying a trailer, so maybe a 4.10 rear gear in my future, definitely a 4.10 when I get a 5 speed.

 

[Dodge 330]

Mickey Thompson ET Street Pro's @ 16 lbs.
I've been 1.54 with them and Superstock springs.

Most people neglect the frontend. I use /6 torsion bars and 90/10 shocks and removed the upper control arm bumpers for more travel.

I leave off idle as well.

My plan is to go to the entire Cal-Trac setup for consistency. more often then not its 1.60-1.62 60 ft. and wrapping the springs into an S-shape. I already have the Cal-Tracs in place but need to get split mono leafs and adjustable shocks.

 

[biomedtechguy]

See attached time slip

 

[Budnicks]

Sounds like it not transferring the weght

Does the front suspension lift much ?

what shocks ?

do you have a sway bar on the front ?

disclaimer;
with CalTracs they live a free movement like 3"-6" inches
like 5" in. of travel before the front wheels leave the ground,
is what they say/recommend IIRC

My last 68 RR liked only 3.5" of suspension travel
with CalTracs stock springs & a 315/15 {a bunch of sidewall} M/T DR

if you have a big sway bar on the front
it will limit it from rising, loosen them or unhook them,
will help

IMO it's probably not transferring the weight,
you need to get traction, typical of OEM style stock suspension,
especially with a OE style rear leaf too, front sway bar,
shocks made to dampen, more than extend etc.
limited body roll from side to side, is what they are trying to do,
not transfer weight to the rear tire, from the factory

adj. shocks {both ends}, freeing up the extension front
& compression on the rears or
like an ol' 90-10 drag front shock will help too

tire press. can make a world of a difference too
air up the fronts/less resistance & figure out what the rears need,
to actually hook

Drag radials can be finicky, I've never used the ones you have,
mine {M/T} worked best @ 16psi - 21psi depending on track & temps

an adj. pinion snuber may help some,
but you still need a good weight transfer

Also maybe;
Try, don't do a big smokey burnout,
just spin them to clean them & get a bit of heat...
IMO sometime it softens the tire too much doing a
"big showy burnout" balls/wads up the rubber under it
& then they just spin

you may need to add ballast in the rear of the trunk too
these cars from the factory aren't meant to transfer the weight,
like you need them to, to actually get them with any power at all,
to actually hook well

good luck

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks to all who replied. I was also looking forward to your .02 Budnicks, thanks. I was only able to spin them up to impart some heat and fresh rubber, drove around the water or used the lane that stayed dry (my car club rented the track, so the right lane never saw water) and yes, I know too much heat can make them greasy. I have a front sway bar that appears stock. I did not check or change the pressure in my rear tires. I'm sure the shocks are stock specs. Budnicks, shocks as you suggest sound like a great idea. It would probably be best for me to get easy to adjust fully adjustable fronts and rears so I can set them for the track then tinker, and then set them back up for driving on the street. Once I get my trailer, I can do more track-oriented stuff, which I can live with on short drives to car shows, using the trailer for longer trips.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Just a quick note on mods and 1/4 mile ET times...
The guys like Bob "Mr 6 pack" K and the other F.A.S.T. drivers REALLY deserve a "hats off" salute for the times they cut on the 1320...amazing performance for the parameters they have to run within!
I always have in my mind the low 13s/high 12s recorded by various car magazines back in the day when they test drove STOCK (or at least supposed to be stock) cars for performance tests when they first came out. While my 440 short block isn't a 70 six pack original block, the mods I do have should surpass the performance of a stock new piece, but still I haven't significantly bettered those times.

 

[Dodge 330]

90/10 shocks on the front won't significantly affect your driveability. I run them at the 90/10 setting on the street with no issues at all.

I use my car almost exactly as you described. I trailer to tracks out if town (2 hours +) but drive it quite a bit to the track that's 18 minutes from me. On the really warm days I trailered it just to take the mini bike and pop-up tent for shade.

 

[383man]

I also run 90/10 front shocks on the street and it handles normal to me. The 105 mph is good to hit high 12's with good hook. I dont own a trailer as I normally drive to the track as I did a few weeks ago. I only use Super Stock springs in the back the the longer rear shocks and thats it other then the 90/10's up front. Everything else on my suspension is stock. Unhook the front sway bar at the track as that will give you more front end travel also. My best 60 ft on just SS springs is a 1.50 running 10.70's so if they work ok for me they should work ok for you if you dont have the money for Cal Tracs. These guys have all given you good advise as there are some very smart racers on this site. Good luck with it. Ron

 

[Tex013]

Drag radials and stickshift are not a match made in heaven .a rag slick will be way better

Tex

 

[dvw]

I agree. A stick hits the tire hard. Without a REALLY GOOD shock you will bounce the tire back into the wheel well if you hit it hard. Heavy stick cars need as much starting line ratio as they can get. They also need a touch if spin. I'd invest in a pair of bias ply slicks, a gear, and a pinion snubber before anything . Set the snubber close to the floor. I've run my small block street Challenger this way with 8.5x26 slicks , the stock leaf springs and stock style shocks. It's been 1.7 leaving at 5000. Ultimately yours would like a 4.56, slipper clutch, double adjustable shocks and ladder bars over the CalTrack. Try the simple stuff first. Also take a look at the UMTR site for tips.
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks!

 

[Canyon707]

I am just wondering how the end will come. Something about racing that pushes you faster. You gotta love that. I do...

 

[biomedtechguy]

One thing that I did for the first time ever was power shift. I have a FBO ignition system that has a built-in rev limiter so I didn't have to worry. I don't think I bounced off the limiter too much or too many times, and with the 6 bbl, keeping the outboard carbs open makes a big difference. I have plans for a stroker RB in the future, but I still see my primary use of my car for shows, crusing, and the occasional scoot down the 1320. If my business income grows by a huge margin, I am sure that I will make more trips to the track. I pound on it at the track, but I really would have significant down time if I broke something major.

 

[66Satellite47]

Drag racing does cost much $. I quit using a pinion snubber after I made my imitation SS springs with adjustable rear shocks. Good springs make the snubber not needed.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Drag racing does cost much $. I quit using a pinion snubber after I made my imitation SS springs with adjustable rear shocks. Good springs make the snubber not needed.

Makes sense to me that good springs would be less likely to wrap up. I am inclined to go with CalTracks, however for about 3 times as much money (lol) I could do this: https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16175&cat=263&page=1

 

[66Satellite47]

The CalTracs sound tempting, I had a set of SS springs on hand so I put them in. We'll see how they work out.