Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Same here
Motor Oil opinions
- Thread starter Bill Monk
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Moparsmitty
Well-Known Member
I still swear by Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil. I've been using 10W-30 VR-1 in my flat tappet 440 for many years without any problems. My machinist recommended it.
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I believe the cheaper Amsoil products - the OE line - are made with type III base stocks. The Signature Series is still the good stuff, using type IV base. Similarly, Mobil1 has switched to type III a few years ago for many of their oils, since their merger with Exxon. Type III base stocks are derived from petroleum crude. Some Royal Purple and German made Castrol synthetic is also Type IV.
Since the SAE doesn't have an actual definition for what a 'synthetic' oil is, oil companies can get away with claiming that Type III is synthetic. Likewise, the American Petroleum Institute has never defined 'synthetic'.
Since the SAE doesn't have an actual definition for what a 'synthetic' oil is, oil companies can get away with claiming that Type III is synthetic. Likewise, the American Petroleum Institute has never defined 'synthetic'.
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Do we really need the SAE to define synthetic oil? Doesn't the basic definition of synthetic explain it well enough?
"Chemistry Produced by synthesis, especially not of natural origin."
I think most all conventional oils today are "synthetic blends".
"Chemistry Produced by synthesis, especially not of natural origin."
I think most all conventional oils today are "synthetic blends".
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Well, HAD they put a definitive description of it, there'd be less confusion. As it is, a type III oil can be conventional crude that has been broken down and rebuilt as a 'synthetic', something not occurring in nature or by a regular cracking process.
Type IV doesn't use crude, it is built molecule by molecule out of other hydrocarbons, such as ethylene, natural gas or alcohol. These are the PAO (Poly-alpha-olefin)Type IV oils, generally lasting longer before breaking down due to heat and pressure.
There is also type V, mostly created from esters. This type has fantastic heat and wear resistance, but not as long lived as type IV. It's used more as a racing oil rather than a street oil.
This sort of confusion is leading car manufacturers to re-label their requirements. Since longer oil changes actually need a type IV, merely specifying 'synthetic' isn't good enough any longer.
magvan
Well-Known Member
Valvoline vr1 40
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
A friend of mine used to run the hi dollar kendall gtx in his (then) 434 sbc vega. His crank broke with the front wheels 2 ft in the air at thunder valley. When I walked up and said< that hi dollar oil don`t look any better on the ground than my 10w 40 , he didn`t think it was funny !
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
The truth usually hurts.
Here is a fantastic article that tests wear protection of a bunch of oils. VR1 comes in third.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...nds-offer-the-best-protection-***Good-read***
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...nds-offer-the-best-protection-***Good-read***
SlinktRR
Well-Known Member
Yep, the infamous 540rat test data. I think it is a valid guide but some oils are out of date. I used to use Quaker state defy 5w30 in my 383's. It is no longer API-SL, now SN and the zddp is at 800ppm. Only way I noticed was the API doughnut changed when I was comparing old bottles during an oil change. Actually before the SN certification there was no doughnut as it was kind of an oddball formula. You can still buy the SN at walmart for 15 dollars a gallon, I use this in my brand x LS motor and is fine for a hydraulic roller v8.
496BEE
Well-Known Member
So vr1 is ok for street use right? . . I used to use it in my 69 dart race car that had a huge solid flat tappet but that car never got driven on the street at all .
It is but it doesn't have as much detergents so it will get dirty faster so up your oil change intervals if you use it.
496BEE
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks, I usually only change my oil once after the season
harry heck
Well-Known Member
I always thought synthetic was the way to go until Dan Short at FantomWorks got a hold of my A12. Synthetic is to light for these old Mopars. Their motors run best on the heavy Rotella diesel oils.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Say what?
too light does not explain it as you can get any weight in either dyno or synthetic
ZDDP does
Some synthetics use calcium based ep additives
do not add ZDDP additives to SN oils- use an earlier oil
That said if you want to be sure you get a Type IV-V oil- that holds up longer when hot and can flow better when cold get a EUROSPEC synthetic for example Mobil-1 the eurospec will say made from natural gas and say good for 15,000 miles on the little checkboxes on the back and say certified for certain BMW and MB specs- other vendors have similar
I use 0w-40 eurospec in most everything now
(it's a low 40 vis almost a high 30vis)
too light does not explain it as you can get any weight in either dyno or synthetic
ZDDP does
Some synthetics use calcium based ep additives
do not add ZDDP additives to SN oils- use an earlier oil
That said if you want to be sure you get a Type IV-V oil- that holds up longer when hot and can flow better when cold get a EUROSPEC synthetic for example Mobil-1 the eurospec will say made from natural gas and say good for 15,000 miles on the little checkboxes on the back and say certified for certain BMW and MB specs- other vendors have similar
I use 0w-40 eurospec in most everything now
(it's a low 40 vis almost a high 30vis)
A diesel oil is NOT correct for a Gas motor. With the availability of high zinc oils out there, why the hell would you put a HIGH detergent oil in you gas motor. Synthetic is a nice way to go, and Joe Gibbs synthetic oil even has zinc in it. Synthetic oil is slippery, so it reduces heat generated by friction, and increases power by reducing friction in the motor. Joe Gibbs Driven oil comes in 10W30, 10W40, and 15W50 viscosities for both synthetic and conventional zinc oils. If someone says to use Rotella diesel oil in your gas flat tappet cam motor, they do not know what they are talking about. While Rotella does have zinc, it is a lower amount today, and there is a ****-load of detergent in it. These high zinc oils are designed for your gas flat tappet cam motor, so use them instead. You don't use your ratchet as a hammer, so don't use diesel oil in a gas motor...
harry heck
Well-Known Member
Good luck!
moes
Well-Known Member
what's wrong with good old dino 10w30 - 10w40 oil for your motor. Millions of cars used 10w30 - 10w40 motor oil and have put on billions of miles over the years. I'm sure some motors have had lobes wiped out, but that percentage is so--- small compared to motors that have run for billions miles and miles with no problem at all. All of a sudden the oil makers are telling people to use our Synthetic or our specialty oil for your motors. I agree you should use of a high zinc motor oil for a new camshaft break-in, but after the break-in regular motor oil will do the job just fine. I've run 10w40 in my cars at the track and street for years in the summer and have never had a problem. Oil companies are loving it, the money they make of these oils are put Millions of dollars in their bank accounts!!! What did the high performance motors and racers use back in the 60s or 70s, regular motor oil and there motors survived and they did not have all these fancy oils back in the day. I'm sure I will here from people who have a different look on the subject, but that's just my 2 cents worth.
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