1. Ron H

    Ron H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Hmm..I've used Castrol in the past as it was more slimy assuming longer hang time on engine parts but my built up motor calls for zinc additive so was reading through all the posts on what to use. About 10 or so to consider following the numerous recommendations! Time to post the oil names on the wall and let my dart pick one!
     
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    • bearman

      bearman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Amsoil
       
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      • wyrmrider

        wyrmrider Well-Known Member

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        Guys remember do not add ZDDP to a SN oil it actually hurts- you need either an SL oil or a Calcium EP package
         
      • MW 413

        MW 413 Well-Known Member

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        Penn Grade, its a semi synthetic and had plenty of zink. Will hang on parts for cold start.
         
      • 451Mopar

        451Mopar Well-Known Member

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        RedLine is a true synthetic Group IV and V oil also. They have a lot of different weights and additive packages for different applications.

        Not sure which the natural gas created Penzoil pure oil falls into? Maybe a group IV? Usually priced good used in newer cars.

        In my older cars, I have used Valvoline VR1 without issue.

        For engine break-in, the Gibbs driven break-in oil is good. I think it has no detergents in it?
         
      • toolmanmike

        toolmanmike Moderator Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Valvoline non synthetic and a drink of Rislone Zinc Supplement rislone.jpg .
         
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        • rlem1977

          rlem1977 Well-Known Member

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          Just finished a break-in on a flat tappet GM crate engine - procedure recommended 10w-30 mineral-based oil for the first 30 miles or one hour; change oil; use 10w-30 mineral-based oil for the next 500 miles or 12-15 hours; change oil - use whichever 10w-30 you prefer. Definitely no synthetic for break-in period. Does not mention anything about zinc content.

          That said, for my "modern" engines I use Mobil 1 10w-30. For the "'70s" engines after break-in I use Valvoline 10w-30 VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, it has a high zinc content. Valvoline recommends against third-party zinc additives because the possibility exists that zinc levels can reach levels that could become corrosive. That's what they say. Me, I just want want to put in 5 bottles and go, not jack with it like my 2-cycle chainsaw gas mixture.
           
        • bearman

          bearman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Call or email amsoil and they can hook you up on break in and then set you up on street oil or race which ever you want. Amsoil is great on heat and high rpms it's just a great oil. Just my thought we will spend thousands of dollars on a engine from stock to twin turbos. We will run the max valve lift and port and polish for one more horsepower but yet we spend very little time on the oil, oil filters and well green is good as long as we add something to the coolant. Has anyone even asked the supplier how much soap is in the grease you buy for wheel bearings or do you just replace them after 20 wheel stands. Thanks for letting me vent its the thought that counts.
           
        • Ron H

          Ron H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Lot's of great advice but then ya gotta pick one so I went the convenient route: Valvoline VR1 20/50 as the store had that in stock. As it has been for 20 years on my '63 Plymouth, I change the oil every spring and year before last checking my oil change record I drove the car 294 miles since the last change. If I get lucky I'll sneak out 500 miles in a season then change the oil! Only difference now is my motor was all hopped up last spring and must run zinc..
           
        • bearman

          bearman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Just be careful i get it not alot of road miles. If you which to run what you are then buy a filter with the best micron available.
           
        • Ron H

          Ron H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Went with a mopar filter
           
        • bearman

          bearman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          It's all about the protection. I don't know what the micron level is compare filters. I'm sure it will work just fine.
           
        • Dennis H

          Dennis H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Wix oil filter. IMG_1105.JPG
           
        • Ranger16

          Ranger16 Well-Known Member

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          Now ain't ya sorry you asked.:lol:

          I'm more confused than ever. [​IMG]
           
        • Ranger16

          Ranger16 Well-Known Member

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          Yes, technically Rotella is a diesel oil. I use it and add a bottle of ZDDP plus, simply because though it still has more zinc than standard starburst motor oils, it still has been lowered a bit.
           
        • wyrmrider

          wyrmrider Well-Known Member

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          Ok
          No race only oils on the street- or change every weekend
          NO ZDDP additives in SN oils- actually makes EP worse
          Relm did not GM recommend their break in additive? I do not know that I would use straight mineral oil even in a low valve spring pressure engine- especially with ball stud rockers or was this a late roller cam motor
          Don't use rotella in a gas motor- the trade offs are not worth it (too much anti acid and detergent) detergent counteracts the EP so just having some is deceptive
          Dennis H - give me a break and how can you tell what's in AMSOIL- no independent tests- but it works OK- but it's not Redline or maybe even Mobil one Eurospec
          For the 500 miles a year car Mobil 1 or other eurospec 0-w 40 the one that says 15,000 miles on the bottle and with the BMW and MB specs- the made from natural gas one get it tested every couple of years once you are broken in you should not need super high zinc and see line 3 above
           
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          • Bill Monk

            Bill Monk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Yep, I went with full synthetic, it ain't blown up and doesn't leak......yet
             
          • doublekrossd

            doublekrossd Well-Known Member

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            Talked to some people that actually did testing for major lifter and rocker manufacturers to find out why people are not getting longevity out of aftermarket valvetrain systems. The best conclusion is that a lot of people are running thicker oils and more zinc in a motor that has modern components, i.e. roller valvetrain. Modern machining tolerances in these aftermarket parts is very tight, thus preventing proper oil around the little axles. Dependent on how your motor is built and what the bearing tolerances are will determine what oil to use.
            If your running a big solid flat tappet cam, then yes, you need the zinc. But if your running milder cams, smaller spring pressures, or big roller systems with all those fancy valvetrain components and tighter bearing tolerances, then all that thick gooey zinc filled oil is less desirable.

            Build your motor to match from top to bottom and oil it accordingly.
            I find a lot of good information on a website called www.bobistheoilguy.com
            Lots of crazy scientist type folks on there that really know their shit.
            For what it's worth, my latest motor is put together with a solid flat cam, pretty high spring pressures, and fairly tight everywhere else. I run vr-1 10w30 and an using a Lucas additive for the first 1000 miles.
             
          • Bee1971

            Bee1971 Well-Known Member

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          • Photon440

            Photon440 Well-Known Member

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