Motor Oil opinions

[WileERobby]

Whatever's on sale,and a bottle of ZDDP

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

just run roller lifters and quit worrying about it .

Ha, I just got off the phone with comp at lunch time after having 2 sets of solid rollers rebuilt. Ain’t nothing cheap and worry free about rollers either.

I break all my flat rappers in with Gibbs, was running BP in the rr but switching it to Gibbs HR next oil change. Speedway had a good buy on it a few weeks back.

 

[Ron H]

Interesting info I was wondering about the best oil to run in my rebuilt motor with advice to use high zinc...

 

[themechanic]

On Nick's Garage YouTube channel one of the latest videos shows them receiving cases of Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W50. They build a lot of engines and test them on the dyno. Nick said they never had any problems all these years.

 

[Photon440]

On Nick's Garage YouTube channel one of the latest videos shows them receiving cases of Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W50. They build a lot of engines and test them on the dyno. Nick said they never had any problems all these years.

Racing oil isn't street oil. Racing oil is fantastic at preventing wear in high pressure, high heat and high rpm engines, but it is very short lived. Changing it out every race is fine, but every week for your street car?

 

[bearman]

Been using amsoil for years it's the best on the market. Also use the temp grease for bearings and never had a failure. Talk to them and will set you up correctly. I use it in heavy diesels also and have great results. At 500k pulled mains down and rods bearings looked great. I replaced them but i should have just left the old ones in.

 

[miller]

Racing oil isn't street oil.

I've used VR1 all my life, on the street, and never had any problems.

 

[Ranger16]

While Rotella does have zinc, it is a lower amount today, and there is a ****-load of detergent in it.

Why do you consider high detergent detrimental?

 

[69Bee]

Why do you consider high detergent detrimental?

Because there is more than double the amount of detergent in diesel oil as there is in gas oils.

 

[Ranger16]

OK, but how is that detrimental? Is detergent bad? I thought that was a good thing.

 

[moes]

Why do you consider high detergent detrimental?

OK, but how is that detrimental? Is detergent bad? I thought that was a good thing.

BY Jeremy Wright
Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.[/QUOTE]

 

[pwDave]

I cannot tell you which oil to use, I can however suggest what not to use, I changed my oil about 200 miles ago, I can sit in the car warming it up and you would think that it had 500,000 miles on it instead of the 600 or so that is on it!! smoke pouring out the back like the shop was on fire, valvoline racing oil, same result every time I've tried valvoline oil for the last forty years, going to amsoil next change. Dave.

 

[miller]

That sounds more like a problem with the rings...not the oil.

 

[MW 413]

I ran 15w-40 Chevron Diesel motor oil in my everyday driver 1973 340 Duster for 17 years (1973-1990) and 105K miles with no oil system related engine failures. Engine was never apart and still had good compression and only about 1/2 qt oil consumption every 4K miles. I worked at an International Truck dealership and got my oil cheap. I changed oil every 3-4K miles. Only time I ever noticed a drop in oil pressure is one time I used a Hastings oil filter and my pressure dropped 3-4 lbs on my manual dash mounted OP gauge. Went back to Mopar oil filter and pressure went back to normal. Hasting filter was to restrictive.

 

[wyrmrider]

STOP a minute
no oil is the same as it was- they all change without telling you
Diesel high detergent negates partially the ep
it takes a balance- there are better balances for gas motors also gas motors do not need as much anti acid as a diesel
Redline also makes great products
adding ZDDP - BVVC and do not add to SN oils
now try and find a SL or earlier oil
what used to work does not work as safely anymore
get your break in oil premixed - like gibbs etc
Still like the eurospec under $25 4 5 quart jug at wallyworld
also pay heed to the oil specs on any new motor especially with cam phazers- much tighter tolerances than 1973
and most wear is at start up
especially start up in cold weather

 

[MW 413]

The new "K" series oil is coming out now. Haven't looked at what the change is from the current "J" series.

 

[bearman]

What ever oil you run i wish everybody would start doing oil samples. This can tell you alot of what is going on. Do yourself a favor take a sample of your oil in also take a sample of your new oil and compare samples. If you use blended oil read the additive package if you use straight oil and add lucas or something like that make sure you get a sample of that. You are going to find that 85% of all oils use base1 stock and then the difference is in the additive package. Now get a pure syn oil and resd all about it and you will see a big difference.

 

[khryslerkid]

I've been working on cars since back in the late sixties and doing so you see things that work and things that don't work.

In the seventies I had tried many oils and I really liked Kendall. As sensitive as motorcycle engines are to oil viscosity and octane differences, Kendall would really make a difference in quieting a noisy valve train, primary chain, ect. Useing it in car engines, you would notice a quieter, better running engine. I had customers that had pretty gummed up engines from using other brands and changing over to Kendall would actually clean up all the gunk. I was impressed with it and have always used it.

Then Kendall's formula was bought by Brad Penn and now it is owned by Penn Grade. I've talked to a Penn Grade representative and it's still the same formula. Still green too!

 

[Kern Dog]

I use either Valvoline VR-1, Castrol or Chevron....never a synthetic. I always add a bottle of the Comp Cams break-in supplement at oil change time.

 

[6PKRTSE]

I run whatever is on sale but use the recommended weights such as in my 2012 Challenger. Cheaper the better. Never any engine issues.