Need a little help replacing axles

[peakandscoot]

I am replacing my tapered axles but have a few probably simple questions.
1. I am reading at this point i can use my dent puller and yank theses out. Yes?
2. My new set up came with new studs for the rear end housing. Whats the best way to remove the old ones. Just beat them out or do i need heat?
3. when installing my new axles do i need to lube the outside of the green berring. Im assuming i should at least lube the o ring.
4. Anything i should look out for while doing this whole thing?

Thanks for the help

 

[khryslerkid]

If you can rigg up something on your dent puller (sliding hammer) that's what you want to pull the axles.

You can put a nut on each stud and drive it out with a hammer if you want to save them. If not just hammer them out. Install your new ones by useing a spacer on the stud, then a nut, then tighten them up to pull them into place. Unless he gave you the "T" bolts that don't get pressed in

There's a new inner seal that he gave you too. Have to remove the old one first.

No oil or grease is needed on a sealed bearing. Might put a film on them to ease installation, but they should slide right in.

Did you get the newer backing plates?

I ordered my axles from Cass this week, should get them tomorrow...

Also he recommended removing the thrust buttons from the gear set.

 

[MoparLeo]

The proper way to install any stud is by using a press(preferred) or driving it in using a brass punch. Tightening a nut with a spacer is a good way to stretch the stud. It doesn't hurt to put a little white grease on the studs knurled surface to help ease the stud in. Never use heat on anything that you plan on reusing.

 

[khryslerkid]

Tightening a nut with a spacer is a good way to stretch the stud.

It doesn't take that much pressure to install these. Especially since there has been a knurled stud in there already.

 

[peakandscoot]

If you can rigg up something on your dent puller (sliding hammer) that's what you want to pull the axles.

You can put a nut on each stud and drive it out with a hammer if you want to save them. If not just hammer them out. Install your new ones by useing a spacer on the stud, then a nut, then tighten them up to pull them into place. Unless he gave you the "T" bolts that don't get pressed in

There's a new inner seal that he gave you too. Have to remove the old one first.

No oil or grease is needed on a sealed bearing. Might put a film on them to ease installation, but they should slide right in.

Did you get the newer backing plates?

I ordered my axles from Cass this week, should get them tomorrow...

Also he recommended removing the thrust buttons from the gear set.

ya i got the T bolts. I got a new backing plates with the axle but im not sure what newer would be i received them 3 weeks ago. I have never herd of the thrust buttons could you tell me more about that.

 

[khryslerkid]

ya i got the T bolts. I got a new backing plates with the axle but im not sure what newer would be i received them 3 weeks ago. I have never herd of the thrust buttons could you tell me more about that.

The thrust buttons are on the thrust block, one on each side. It's what the axles butt against to set the end play on a tapered roller bearing, originally on the axles. You're going to be useing the sealed bearings on your new axles so the thrust buttons are not needed. Cass told me he measures his axles with a tape measure so it would be a good idea to remove the buttons. They might interfere with the axle when installed.

Here is the button on one side. There's another on the opposite side, held together with a small pin. To remove, it could be as easy as useing a long magnet to retrieve them. Worse case is you have to remove the center section (whole gear assembly) and drive the pin out in order to remove. Sometimes the pin is broken and they just fall out, or even stick to the end of the axle when pulled.

Picture with the button removed

Buttons with pin. I had to drive this pin out.

About the backing plates, the ones that your brake shoes attach to. You cannot use your origanal ones. You have to use a newer style, like a 1970's. Your original backing plates held the axle in the housing. The new axles have a retaining ring behind the bearing that holds the axle in the housing, and the bearing has to pass through a larger hole in the backing plate. (I'm thinking you already know this.)

 

[khryslerkid]

Received my axles today.

 

[peakandscoot]

All done and went well although those 55 year old axles did not give up easy. I dont know what i would have done if i didnt have my slide hammer that i have not used since my auto body days in the 80s. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[peakandscoot]

Received my axles today.
View attachment 494790

Ya those are the ones are you running disk brakes on the back i don't see your caliper holders

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm useing drums on the rear. Are you useing disc? Looks like a bracket there?

 

[peakandscoot]

ya all my drum parts were 100% shot so i figured i would just spend a little more and go 4 wheel disk. The 3 things i wanted to update while doing this car was disk brakes, power steering and fuel injection.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

So, this is a conversion kit to put in special flange type axles into a tapered axle housing, using the "green" type bearings? And that comes from Dr. Differential ?.And are those axles stronger than stock?.............................MO

 

[khryslerkid]

So, this is a conversion kit to put in special flange type axles into a tapered axle housing, using the "green" type bearings? And that comes from Dr. Differential ?.And are those axles stronger than stock?.............................MO

They're advertised as "high strength". They're cut to the correct lenth for the 53 1/4" housing that these '62s use. They come with the newer "Green Bearings" installed. Yes, they are from Doctor Diff. Tell Cass what you have and want and he'll fix you up.

I did some measurements after I received mine and the brake drum will be at the same location as the factory, exactly what I was wanting. You will need the newer style backing plates, drums, shoes, hardware.

 

[peakandscoot]

Dr Diff has the set up.This could not have been any easier once the axles were on with the caliper holders all i had to do was push the rotor on, place the caliper over
the rotor and tighten the two bolts. No shims or adjustments. Perfect fit

 

[khryslerkid]

I just posted my axle swap. Useing drums. I'm loving life! (Post #224)
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/taking-up-new-residence.114133/page-12

 

[khryslerkid]

Hey Scoot, did you have to remove your thrust block buttons? I wanted to ask about that.

 

[peakandscoot]

Someone else mentioned that but when i purchased mine he did not tell me to do it. He knew i was only pulling the axles and not pulling the chunk out. I think in order to pull the thrust you would have to pull more than the axles. When i matched up old axles with new they were a perfect match. So no i did not and everything went together reel nice. My only frustration was pulling one of the axles even with my large slide hammer it took probably 100 hard wacks before it broke loose.

 

[peakandscoot]

So, this is a conversion kit to put in special flange type axles into a tapered axle housing, using the "green" type bearings? And that comes from Dr. Differential ?.And are those axles stronger than stock?.............................MO

Yes these replaced the tapered axles and use the green bearings. And yes from Dr Diff. As far as being stronger you would have to ask him. My application is for a convertible and i wont be doing any racing and everything i read about the original ones is they were more than adequate for non racing applications so that was never a concern for me.

 

[747mopar]

Thanks for posting, I've got the same disc kit for mine but have yet to install it. I'm going to see what I do in order to keep the original taper bearings on mine though. Looks good