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Installed new exhaust/mufflers, now the 440 gets hot...

Mufflers on backward? :lol:
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Another tidbit...could the fact that the pipes leak like a sieve at pretty much every joint be contributing to my issues? I always weld everything, but used tti's supplied clamps temporarily to get it sitting just where I want it, and to be sure I liked the mufflers first..I cranked them down with my impact but you can still feel the wind blowing through the joints. As we all know....u-bolt clamps pretty much suck...
 
Not sure about the leaks causing issues, but regarding the clamps, u-bolt clamps do suck, so I use these. Walker Mega Clamps.
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Thanks to all that replied! The latest news...did a re-tune. Bumped the advance up a couple of degrees, 22 initial gives me about 37 total. Reset the 4-corner mixture screws and fine-tuned the idle rpm with the idle-eez screw(mine has that adjustment) and, although the final settings are not much different than before it seems to be happy=temp stays where it should even after driving and then tuning session in the driveway. Idle speed is up about 50 rpm from before (it vibrates the inside less at that speed lol) I also raised the float levels a tad. Now...if I decide I can live with the increased interior noise everything will get welded up in a few days....OR 3" super turbos go on and yippee start over..at least from what I hear dynomax will buy them back!
 
Usually, even after driving around town in traffic for awhile would get to 185-190 tops...swapped the 2-1/2" pipes w/ super turbos for a 3"system w/ ultraflows. After driving around for 20-30 minutes, pulled in to the driveway and left it in gear with the E-brake on to inspect for leaks, rattles etc...noticed the temp at the neck was up to 212, with my IR gun...what the heck?? (New tti ceramic-coated headers went on too if it matters..) timing still ok at 20 btdc, idle mixture is good...your help is much appreciated!
not sure what year your mopar 440 is but 200/220 is normal range
 
When you increase the exhaust pipe diameter, you lower your exhaust back pressure making the exhaust less efficient. Which in turn changes your induction efficiency.
 
So do I need to weld in the sensor or can I stick in the tail pipe? don't really want to remove the header to install the sensor, and don't really want the extra gauge after setting the AFR
 
So do I need to weld in the sensor or can I stick in the tail pipe? don't really want to remove the header to install the sensor, and don't really want the extra gauge after setting the AFR

Any muffler shop can weld a bung into the collector or reducer on the car for the sensor. Buy a plug to use after you remove the gauge and you're good.

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