383 engine value question

[XMAN JR]

I just cant see selling it for less than 400. I just might pull the intake & heads. Check things out & put new gaskets on but if I do that the price goes up. Now were all the original cranks drilled for a 4spd or just the ones that they knew were going into 4spd cars ?

 

[YY1]

check your local craigslist.

See what similar engines are advertised for, and then periodically check to see how long they stay on, or if the price gets reduced.

If they disappear after a few days, they likely sold at or near the asking price.

if the stay around for weeks, they likely haven't sold yet.

if the price changes and then they disappear, then that's a good indication they sold at or near the reduced price.

 

[moper]

I want to sell the complete engine. What are they going for these days ? I live in north central PA.

It's not worth much. If it was running, you "might" get $4-500 for it. As a core I'd be impressed if you can get $200 for it. Last one I bought as running, 100% complete air cleaner to pan, with the one-year-only transmission, I paid $250 and he delivered it. 383s are not worth crap unless the VIN matches someone's car, the car is still on the road, and they are aware and looking for it.

 

[tak419]

It's not worth much. If it was running, you "might" get $4-500 for it. As a core I'd be impressed if you can get $200 for it. Last one I bought as running, 100% complete air cleaner to pan, with the one-year-only transmission, I paid $250 and he delivered it. 383s are not worth crap unless the VIN matches someone's car, the car is still on the road, and they are aware and looking for it.

Agreed. My friend bought a 68 383 for his 68 roadrunner and only paid 200 and it ran. He did replace the carb and repainted it but that's it. That was 2 yrs ago. The guy who sold it to him offered him 2 400's for free just so he didn't have to haul them to the scrapper. My friend didn't want the hassle either. Heck I have a free 400 if anyone wants it lol.

 

[XMAN JR]

Id dig a big hole & stick it in before id sell it that cheep. It turns over. I just put an oil pressure gauge on & ran it with a drill & it got 60lbs with the drill. Took valve covers off & its still very clean. I cant believe 383 HP motors are worth peanuts

 

[tak419]

I can't speak for everyone but it seems the people that don't have the original 383 with using just lot to go with a 440. Me for example, I have a chance to buy another 71 RR actually a nice optioned original Airbrushed car. I know this cause I rescued the car from under a tree when I was in HS. It had a transplanted 400 in it which is still there. If I were to go original drivetrain I'd want a 71hp block but wouldn't want to pay much just for the fact there's no power and the fender tag is gone from the car so it'll never be worth much. But I'd give more than 250 for a running 383 hp.

 

[69Coronetrt]

I cant believe 383 HP motors are worth peanuts

Why not? It costs about the same to rebuild a 440. If guys want to rebuild and core, or crate, 440s are available, why spend the money on a 383 and miss out on the oooph of a bigger motor for about the same cost?

Same thing: Why rebuild a 318 when 340/360s are out there?

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Id dig a big hole & stick it in before id sell it that cheep. It turns over. I just put an oil pressure gauge on & ran it with a drill & it got 60lbs with the drill. Took valve covers off & its still very clean. I cant believe 383 HP motors are worth peanuts

Unfortunately the 383 doesn't get the respect it deserves (IMHO). Seems that almost everyone prefers the 440 over the 383, and I understand the reasoning behind it. Even though I like the 383 I too prefer the 440. But personally I wouldn't just give up on the engine you have.
In fact, I went to look at a '69 383 HP engine just a couple days ago. I don't need it, I already have more engines then I'll ever use but I'd hate to see it end up in a scrap pile. In a few days I plan to go back with what I need to do a compression test and check a few other things more closely. If it checks out good I might buy it, bring it home and get it running then try to find the guy with a '69 Super Bee that's looking for a date correct engine. That's just how I am, but then I enjoy working on engines.
But it does make sense to face the fact that 383's just aren't in demand.

With all that said, what speed (RPM) did you spin the oil pump to get the 60 psi of pressure?
I ask because if you had let's say a 1300 RPM drill running at full speed with the oil in the pan being cold I would have expected a higher pressure reading than 60 psi.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Unfortunately the 383 doesn't get the respect it deserves (IMHO). Seems that almost everyone prefers the 440 over the 383, and I understand the reasoning behind it. Even though I like the 383 I too prefer the 440. But personally I wouldn't just give up on the engine you have.
In fact, I went to look at a '69 383 HP engine just a couple days ago. I don't need it, I already have more engines then I'll ever use but I'd hate to see it end up in a scrap pile. In a few days I plan to go back with what I need to do a compression test and check a few other things more closely. If it checks out good I might buy it, bring it home and get it running then try to find the guy with a '69 Super Bee that's looking for a date correct engine. That's just how I am, but then I enjoy working on engines.
But it does make sense to face the fact that 383's just aren't in demand.

With all that said, what speed (RPM) did you spin the oil pump to get the 60 psi of pressure?
I ask because if you had let's say a 1300 RPM drill running at full speed with the oil in the pan being cold I would have expected a higher pressure reading than 60 psi.

800 rpm or idle with a warmed up enginne. But I run the high pressure and high volume pump with tight clearences.
I prefer the 383's lighter rotating assembly over the 440. But I prefer buiding road worthy engines as opossed to brute race engines.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

800 rpm or idle with a warmed up enginne. But I run the high pressure and high volume pump with tight clearences.
I prefer the 383's lighter rotating assembly over the 440. But I prefer buiding road worthy engines as opossed to brute race engines.

mopar 3 B, Not sure I understand where you're going with the first paragraph of your post in reference to my post?
I do get the second part though.

 

[mopar 3 B]

mopar 3 B, Not sure I understand where you're going with the first paragraph of your post in reference to my post?
I do get the second part though.

You were wanting to know at what engine rpms to expect to get 60 psi on a cold engine. I get 60 psi off the starter motor rpms before the engine starts.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

You were wanting to know at what engine rpms to expect to get 60 psi on a cold engine. I get 60 psi off the starter motor rpms before the engine starts.

I see.
But actually I was referring to the Drill speed when priming the oil pump. He said he got 60 Lbs. when priming his 383 with a drill. That seemed a little low to me with cold oil in the pan.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I see.
But actually I was referring to the Drill speed when priming the oil pump. He said he got 60 Lbs. when priming his 383 with a drill. That seemed a little low to me with cold oil in the pan.

Depends on the pump used and bearing clearences. Considering 45 psi would be normal running with a standard pump and clearances.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Depends on the pump used and bearing clearences. Considering 45 psi would be normal running with a standard pump and clearances.

Yes, I understand there are variables involved.
My intention was to possibly give xman (who started this thread) some input on his 383 that he wants to sell.

 

[XMAN JR]

On my dads newly rebuilt 440 & his 413 as soon as you start them the oil pressure goes to 80. I could be wrong but I would think priming an engine with a cheep dill from harbor freight & get getting 60lbs of oil pressure would be good. I don't know the drills RPMs O & that with the cars sitting for a while. Weeks Well I going to sell it & im going to start at $500

 

[moper]

Done properly, the 383 is more expensive to build than any 440. If you want real power from them you have some work to do and parts to buy.

 

[1967coronet440]

Id dig a big hole & stick it in before id sell it that cheep. It turns over. I just put an oil pressure gauge on & ran it with a drill & it got 60lbs with the drill. Took valve covers off & its still very clean. I cant believe 383 HP motors are worth peanuts

Get it on an engine run stand for a potential buyer, gotta look at it from his point of view he doesn’t know if it runs only your word saying it does. So prove it to him and fire it up and ask for $1500

 

[mopar 3 B]

If it runs or not is really immaterial. Whats in it, does it fit my application, do I know the bulider and can I trust the seller are.
1500 for a tear down engine. Redicules!

 

[miller]

What usually matters on a 383, no difference than other Mopar motors, is what's in, and on it. Example is, an earlier 383 will probably have a steel crank (good), but 516 heads (not so good). Even for a low block, block itself is good. I've built a good handful of them.
The 516 heads 'can' be made better, by alot of work, but the better 906s are heaps better, and slap right on!

 

[SublimeSixpack]

I wish we had more info. on this engine and it's condition. A photo image as previously suggested would also help. The seller thinks it's a '68 HP engine. That would be easy to confirm. If it is and is unmolested so to speak, it would have a steel crank and 906 heads. If it's complete with original carb and exhaust manifolds it would be of value to the right person.
I'd slap a flywheel, bell housing and starter on it and run a compression test (first doing a little prep to the cylinders and priming of the oil pump). If things look good I'd put in it the run-in stand with carb and exhaust set up with mufflers and fire it up. If you can prove that it's a good engine and make it look nice, resolve any oil or coolant leaks you would be more likely to find a buyer.
I don't know if xman wants to go to this much effort?
Personally I would and have done, even just recently and it's worked out for me.
Is it worth the effort and potential cost (seals, gaskets, paint, etc.)? That would depend on the owner/seller.