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Rear shocks

Bicylindrico

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Can anyone recommend a set of rear shocks for my 65 Satellite that are NOT gas charged but still reasonably priced? I seem to only find ones geared towards racing and I don't want to spend $300.

Thanks for any suggestions
 
Well before I ever heard of gas charged shocks, I'd looked for heavy duty 50/50 shocks and Monroe 500's filled that bill. Been years since buying shocks for a car but I recently bought some Bilsteins heavy duty gas charged shocks for my 2500 extended cab LWB diesel and I'm very happy with them. They were 150.00 for the pair.
 
Autozone. Gabriel Shocks.
Thanks! I see Gabriel carries several hydraulic only rear shocks so I am going to measure my length and see what fits. I don't trust they will be able to pull it up as a match on their screen as no one else has been able to either.
The KYB gas charged I threw on literally raises my rear suspension an inch which is the opposite direction I am trying to move.
 
Thanks! I see Gabriel carries several hydraulic only rear shocks so I am going to measure my length and see what fits. I don't trust they will be able to pull it up as a match on their screen as no one else has been able to either.
The KYB gas charged I threw on literally raises my rear suspension an inch which is the opposite direction I am trying to move.
Did you try O'Reillys? The one by me has a book they use to look up the older stuff that's not common enough to enter into the data bank. I've never had much luck with AZ for the old stuff either unless I go in with a part number.
 
Did you try O'Reillys? The one by me has a book they use to look up the older stuff that's not common enough to enter into the data bank. I've never had much luck with AZ for the old stuff either unless I go in with a part number.
I don't have one near me. I have Advance, Autozone and NAPA.

I typically like Jeg's as they are 20 miles away and I get the stuff next day but they only show the high dollar QA1
 
Thanks! I see Gabriel carries several hydraulic only rear shocks so I am going to measure my length and see what fits. I don't trust they will be able to pull it up as a match on their screen as no one else has been able to either.
The KYB gas charged I threw on literally raises my rear suspension an inch which is the opposite direction I am trying to move.
For standard style shocks...Gabriel, Monroe, or KYB. Also, the shocks should not raise your car (or lower) unless they are WAY too long. The rear springs & shackles determine your cars height in the back & the shocks only even out the bumps on the road...the one exception is air shocks which can raise the rear of the car.

If you are trying to lower the rear end, maybe try some generic part store "truck lift blocks" which actually work as lowering blocks on old Mopars. You'll need some longer u-bolts.
 
Be wary of Gabriel products these days. I have had to warranty several of their shocks/struts that were installed by other shops. Even Autozone is going away from their Quick Struts assemblies because of defect rates. Not sure if they are going to dump the whole line, or not.
 
For standard style shocks...Gabriel, Monroe, or KYB. Also, the shocks should not raise your car (or lower) unless they are WAY too long. The rear springs & shackles determine your cars height in the back & the shocks only even out the bumps on the road...the one exception is air shocks which can raise the rear of the car.

If you are trying to lower the rear end, maybe try some generic part store "truck lift blocks" which actually work as lowering blocks on old Mopars. You'll need some longer u-bolts.
I watched those gas shocks raise the rear one inch. My car had extra leafs and coil over shocks installed for over 30 years. I was the one with the foot-long snubber post a year or so ago. I recently pulled everything apart, removed the extra leafs and installed new sliders/shackles/bushings hoping to get back to factory height. I think it was very close as I measured a drop of 2 inches when removing the extra leafs alone. I was back up one inch when I installed the KYB's. Everything else is standard length and position such as shackles.

The leafs aren't saggy like most people have to deal with. I think these leafs are needing to sag some with everything being back to factory and some weight on them. I don't want gas charged shocks preventing this. I would like the rear tires to tuck into the fenders a little more than they are.
 
Summitt has a factory replacement section in their catalog.
 
change your front spring hanger or just redrill it with one inch higher than the stock one. us car tool, andyf and others can help you with spring hangers. cost is cheap and install is good.
 
I watched those gas shocks raise the rear one inch. My car had extra leafs and coil over shocks installed for over 30 years. I was the one with the foot-long snubber post a year or so ago. I recently pulled everything apart, removed the extra leafs and installed new sliders/shackles/bushings hoping to get back to factory height. I think it was very close as I measured a drop of 2 inches when removing the extra leafs alone. I was back up one inch when I installed the KYB's. Everything else is standard length and position such as shackles.

The leafs aren't saggy like most people have to deal with. I think these leafs are needing to sag some with everything being back to factory and some weight on them. I don't want gas charged shocks preventing this. I would like the rear tires to tuck into the fenders a little more than they are.
No kidding? Hmmmm…. are the shocks way too short or something? Within the range of the shock up/down travel, that doesn't make sense to me??? I totally understand why removing some leaves would lower it. Maybe measure the mount-to-mount distance with the shocks off the car & pick shops by ends & length spec's?
 
change your front spring hanger or just redrill it with one inch higher than the stock one. us car tool, andyf and others can help you with spring hangers. cost is cheap and install is good.
Thanks, this may be my next option I consider.
 
No kidding? Hmmmm…. are the shocks way too short or something? Within the range of the shock up/down travel, that doesn't make sense to me??? I totally understand why removing some leaves would lower it. Maybe measure the mount-to-mount distance with the shocks off the car & pick shops by ends & length spec's?
They are the correct shocks. It's the slight push from the gas charge coupled with pretty tight leaf springs and the 440 up front I am guessing.

I will also say that with the new plastic sliders at the end of the leafs, they spread the leafs somewhat to where you can see some daylight between the ends of the leafs. Once you have a stack of six or so leafs spread this way it adds up to extra tension on them giving me extra lift. The car sits much better than it did just not where I want it. Even with the shocks disconnected I wish it was a little lower
 
They are the correct shocks. It's the slight push from the gas charge coupled with pretty tight leaf springs and the 440 up front I am guessing.

I will also say that with the new plastic sliders at the end of the leafs, they spread the leafs somewhat to where you can see some daylight between the ends of the leafs. Once you have a stack of six or so leafs spread this way it adds up to extra tension on them giving me extra lift. The car sits much better than it did just not where I want it. Even with the shocks disconnected I wish it was a little lower
Dang....well, maybe you could add some 1" lowering blocks + longer rear end u-bolts? The generic parts store "truck lift blocks" fit our Mopars with very minor modification (I think you sand just a tiny bit off the locator pin if I recall correctly). I've been using 2" blocks with my super stock springs (so I didn't have to re-weld spring perches & use the upper front spring mount holes) and they seem to work just fine.
 
Ordered some Viking shocks from PST. FBBO members get 10% discount they are definitely worth the money.

20181004_163915.jpg
 
They are the correct shocks. It's the slight push from the gas charge coupled with pretty tight leaf springs and the 440 up front I am guessing.

I will also say that with the new plastic sliders at the end of the leafs, they spread the leafs somewhat to where you can see some daylight between the ends of the leafs. Once you have a stack of six or so leafs spread this way it adds up to extra tension on them giving me extra lift. The car sits much better than it did just not where I want it. Even with the shocks disconnected I wish it was a little lower
Just wondering if you figured out your shock situation. KYB shocks raised the heck out of my rear end too (at least an inch). Getting rid of them. What did you finally decide on?

Thank you,

Jeff
 
My personal preference is MONROE SUPER 500's. They are no longer made...how sad as they were great shocks. They have 1 3/8" diameter pistons over sized shafts, higher viscosity fluids, and special flow control valves. They were originally developed for NASCAR 500 cars when NASCAR allowed real cars.....not cookie cutter cars with different badgings, especially Toyota's and Hendrick Motorsports Engines. Built by the Petty's, Woods Brothers, Henery "Smokey" Unick.
I was able to buy a NOS set on the internet at a reasonable price for all 4 corners..... VERY FIRM RIDING .....
I've used Gabriel Red Riders (adjustable) they are Ok...not on a Mopar......but nothing like the Super 500's
Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton
 
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